fst100

iTrader: (5)

went to cecil for test and tune. the DA according to dragtimes was ~+1500
heres my setup:
LID and HP Tuned by me
1st run got 2.06 sixty foot at 32psi of tire pressure 13.28@106
corrected based on DA would be 13.05@108
AFR was 12.6:1 but got progressively richer getting into 3rd which was at 12.05:1

2nd run got similar sixty at 2.08 but dropped the tire pressure to 26psi and slightly lean the 9K hz frequency by 1%. got 13.35@105 with AFR steady in ~12.4:1

3rd and 4th run i leaned it out again by 1% and got 13.3s@104 and 103.91 with AFR 12.8:1

so for some reason it runs slower as it gets leaner? i have a wideband in the passenger O2 bung running OLMAF. timing's at 23* and from my research is max for nearly stock and on stock manifolds.




my next upgrade will be a stall, maybe 3600?

also how'd i do? when it shifted into 3rd was around 99-101mph on stock 2.73 gears.

NateLS1Mustang

iTrader: (2)

You did well. Pretty average times for an almost stock LS1 Fbody.

However, in a couple hours, you'll have some serious nuthuggers in here tell you that your almost stock setup is complete **** and that you should have went with their stock setup instead so you can run 10s bone stock.

Good runs.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

lol thanks. hopefully it wont come to that but its the internet and forums though lol. got literally no tire spin off the line and the stock stall didnt help when brake torquing either.

loudblack97z71

iTrader: (2)

Those times are pretty typical for stock stall and 2:73 gears (swap in some 3:23's or 3:73's if you can find them cheap) I would run more than 23 degrees timing also, I ran 28 degrees on my old bolt-on Z28 and leaned it out. It took me to 11.40's with stall, 3:23 gears, weight reduction, and not even full bolt-ons.

You're on the right track with a stall, don't be afraid to go with a higher stall. I'd recommend FTI, I got a 3800 and it performed great and was still very streetable.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

^when you ran 28* was that with stock manifolds? i tried running 27-28* but was getting constant 4-5* KR with 12.7-12.8:1 AFR. otherwise i'd have to run richer AFR to run 28*

loudblack97z71

iTrader: (2)

No, I had BBK Long tubes and Offroad Y with a dumped bullet. Sounds like a great excuse to ditch the stock exhaust

fst100

iTrader: (5)

^ true. aside from a stall, more i think about it, getting LT headers maybe next on the list then a stall

Mappinsj

Seeing as how I only run 13.3 107 on 285 N555 with a 2.1 full exhaust true duels and full intake (ls6) with 3.42 gears you're doing alright. First shifts at 5,500 not 6 so it bogs and is slow

OneSlowV

iTrader: (2)

Good runs !

fst100

iTrader: (5)

currently shifting at ~5700-5800 on my end since power drops off typically (based on other's stock dyno graphs online) 5500-5600. thanks for the feedback guys :-)

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

You need to shift higher. Power begins to drop at 5800 true, but it's better to stay in it until 6100-6200 so that you stay high in your power band after shifting.

NateLS1Mustang

iTrader: (2)

Don't you always say your car is practically stock? Lolololol @ all those mods.

Edit: or are you the guy that says your car is slower than stock with all those mods?

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I think before my stall, I was shifting at 105mph with my 2.73's. After my stall it shifted at 110mph from 2nd to 3rd.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

one of the reasons im shifting below 6000 is paranoia of the rod bolts haha

edit-my 98 firebird threw a rod bearing a few years back after it shifted int 3rd with stock shift points shifting around 6000-6100

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Mines been shifting at 6500 for over 5000 hard driven miles, you'll be fine.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

^so does it kind of goes back to the big long debate of different rods bolts were replaced after 2000 production models?

edit also Deeohgie69 do you have any track times (ET and traps) with your setup in your sig?

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

With 2.73's and a fat tune it ran 11.85-11.89 trapping low 116's all night. With 3.42's it was high 11.60's low 11.70's trapping high 116's low 117's with my tune right.

loudblack97z71

iTrader: (2)

headers, stall, tire, edit you're tune to add timing and bump the shift points to ~6100 and you'll easily shave a second off your ET.

If you havent already done them I advise doing all the "free mods" I think they're listed in the sticky FAQ.

Free Ram air, descreen MAF, TB coolant bypass, Free weight reduction, etc...

2003Cobro

Hole saw and hack saw mods ^^^

loudblack97z71

iTrader: (2)

Or you could just slap a blower on it and maybe go 12's ^