tmc2k1

iTrader: (4)

I am not extremely mechanical savvy. I always do regular fluid changes like oil and transmission etc. I can do small things here and there, but its time for me to change my brake pads and I am also going to be putting on new rotors.

Is this a difficult job for someone who has never done anything like this? I prefer to do it myself because I can't stand bringing my car to a shop to have someone else work on my car and get ripped off. Just looking for a little bit of input before I decide whether or not this is something I should tackle myself.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

pretty simple, not hard at all. feels better to do things yourself.

1. take off wheel
2. remove 2 bolts holding on caliper (do not let caliper hang just by brake line)
3. remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket on
4. pull off old rotor, replace new
5. bolt bracket back on
6. unscrew brake fluid reservoir cap (do not forget!)
7. compress pistons in caliper with clamp
8. place in new pads
9. bolt caliper back up
10. replace wheels

that's pretty much it. just check to make sure all the slides (these are what the caliper bolts bolt into) are still sliding like they're supposed to. first time i did my brakes i found out that my front right caliper was frozen.

tmc2k1

iTrader: (4)

Why is it necessary to remove the brake reservoir cap?

When is it necessary to bleed the brakes? I was wondering that as well and whether or not that was needed.

Dubyaesix

With the cap off, the piston slides right back in real easily. Just do it slowly so you don't make a huge mess with the brake fluid. Basically, with the cap off, you're not having to fight the pressure. As far as bleeding the brakes is concerned, you're not going to need to do that if you're just chaning the rotors and pads. That whole job shouldn't take you any longer than 30-45 minutes or so. I just did mine today. Good luck!

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

when you compress the piston it will build pressure in the system, having the cap open will stop that

might as well bleed the brakes at the same time too, can't hurt

tmc2k1

iTrader: (4)

No longer than 30-45 minutes to swap out rotors and pads for all 4 wheels? That sounds pretty quick unless it really is that easy :p

When IS bleeding the brakes required? I figured I wouldn't need to bleed them for a rotor/pad swap, but I was wondering when it is required. Thanks guys so much for your help!

Dubyaesix

Yup, it's pretty easy. 30-45 minutes is all it took me. I placed the car on jackstands and took all the wheels off. Once the car was in the air, all I had to do is remove the old pads/rotors and swap in the new ones.

I believe the only time you really need to worry about bleeding the brakes is when you actually open the brake line...for example, if you're putting on a different set of calipers, you're going to need to undo the brake line from the old caliper and bolt it up to the new caliper. Having disconnected the brake line, that allows air to get in the system. (Other members, please correct me if I'm wrong on this one)...

tmc2k1

iTrader: (4)

I heard if you have a spongy feeling in the brake pedal or you feel like you are pushing down farther than normal that you need to bleed the brakes. I feel like I have to push down the pedal a little further than when I got the car (Got the car with 32k miles and now has 58k. This is going to be the first time I have changed the pads on this car).

Will putting the new pads make the pedal feel firmer and require me to not push down any further than before? Or will I need to bleed the brakes to fix that?

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

You will need to bleed the brakes if you have a soft/low/spongy pedal. Brake fluid should be changed at least every 2 years anyway, so its never a bad idea to just completely flush the system by adding new fluid and bleeding it fully at each wheel. The sequence is right rear first, then left rear, then right front, then left front last. Make sure to get name brand DOT4 brake fluid.

DaddySS

A couple of thoughts; First you will need the following tools:
Metric sockets
Metric wrenches
C clamp
turkey baster (to remove some of the old fluid if the master is topped off)
Torque wrench
Brake bleeder

Supplies
White lithium or other high temperature grease
Sandpaper
Brakleen
Brake pads (kit preferrably with new anti-rattle springs)
Rotors
Brake fluid

Do one wheel at a time so that if you forget how things go together you have a reference.
You should bleed the brakes thoroughly primarily because the fluid should be replaced every couple of years anyway. A brake bleeder is a fairly inexpensive tool that you will use again and again on all your cars.
Plan on 30 minutes per wheel.

-

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Plan on 30 minutes for the second wheel! If you haven't done brakes in a while or on this car, it will take you an hour for the first front wheel and an hour for the first rear wheel.

I would highly recommend that you get a repair manual to help guide you through the process. There's lots of info in there, like torque specs, etc.

A key thing NOT to miss here is the need for a torque wrench. If you replace the rotors, you'll need to remove the brake caliper brackets. Those brackets must be torqued back on properly. Otherwise, the bolts can come out. (Lots of posts about what kind of hell that brings.) You should also use thread locker on the bolts when you put them back in. (GM recommends replacing the bolts each time you take them out. I'm not sure why, but I believe its because the coating comes off and reduces the thread friction - thread locker should help deal with that.)

Another key point is that if you replace the rear rotors, you will need to adjust the parking brakes for the new bore of the new rotors. The only way this can be done is with the rotor and brake caliper off - so you need to be prepared to do the adjustments during your brake job. If you want to spend another 1-2 hours on the job, you can also re-build and lubricate the parking brake mechanism while you are in there. Please let me know if you are interested in doing this and I can provide some hints for that work, as well. (The parking brake is a drum brake and a little more challenging.)

tmc2k1

iTrader: (4)

What is required in adjusting the parking brake?

There seems like there's a lot of spots where I can mess up and seriously do some damage. The brakes is one area you definitely don't want to make any mistakes. It sounds like I'm going to need to be extremely careful. I hope I can handle this.

DaddySS

You can handle it. Take your time and if you have questions stop and ask here - we're glad to help and you can usually get an answer pretty quick. Don't forge ahead and then ask later.....we often get the "this is what I did, is it OK?" questions only to have to tell them to undo it.

tmc2k1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! That's definitely reassuring!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You can do it - but you should really get a manual if you haven't done brakes before. Its not hard, but you don't want to miss any details on a safety item like this. (There are a lot of little things to keep track of like where to lubricate, etc.) Also, you'll want to do one wheel at a time. That way, if you get stuck you can go over and look at a constructed mechanism on the other side.

Here's a thread with the e-brake procedure: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ightening.html

ssteven

iTrader: (6)

ajsfirehawk

iTrader: (4)

It isn't too bad, really, but I'm with DaddySS on the process, and WSSIX99 on the time. Time is variable based on your level of comfort. I do stuff very methodically. It may take half a day for the brake pads while you read, look, the finally perform the work. I also agree it is time to bleed them. Brake fluid picks up moisture over time. Get a manual, follow the cookbook in the manual. It is not complex, just a bit tedious and the details count.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Make sure to properly break in the new brakes when you're done too. There was a really good video/writeup on here a while ago.

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

If you know how to turn a wrench you can replace brakes. Like people have said, make sure to take off the master cylinder cap. Gravity bleed is the easiest method to self bleed also

Viper

iTrader: (6)

You may want to keep a wire coathanger nearby so you can hang the caliper out of the way, you don't want to let it hang with tension on the brake line. And here's some links I've used for 10 years with pics:

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm

http://www.installuniversity.com/lsx...documents.html

amd another for other things fbody with directions:

http://www.ls1howto.com/