Subframe Connectors
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Subframe Connectors
Guys, I'm looking to order some weld on, boxed, subframe connectors for my 2001 Z28 hardtop, but can't make my mind up between the BMR and UMI ones. Was just wondering whether ground clearance is an issue at all with SFC's and, if so, how these two makes compare in that respect?
#3
Always buy the bolt on units. That way you can draw them in tight without using any clamps or jacks to hold the units in place. If you want to, then you can place a stitch weld on all four corners to insure stiffness. But after bolting the UMI three piece units in place, you will see how rigidly they fit on the frame. So, welding is really not necessary.
#4
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
Our boxed SFC's and BMR's are going to offer very similar ground clearance which is no lose at all. The boxed SFC's will hang approximately 3/8" below the pinch weld under the door. If you have a Camaro/Firebird with no ground effects you can see them slightly from the side, if you have ground effects or it is a Trans Am you won't be able to see them from the side.
The tubular style we offer tucks up very tight and can't be seen from the side of the vehicle on can car. Both the boxed and tubular design will work well for any application.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
The tubular style we offer tucks up very tight and can't be seen from the side of the vehicle on can car. Both the boxed and tubular design will work well for any application.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
#5
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Or even better, weld them FROM THE START, and be done with it! ;-)
Always buy the bolt on units. That way you can draw them in tight without using any clamps or jacks to hold the units in place. If you want to, then you can place a stitch weld on all four corners to insure stiffness. But after bolting the UMI three piece units in place, you will see how rigidly they fit on the frame. So, welding is really not necessary.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Depends how low you drop the car. At stock height you aren't likely to have any problems except from the most unruly of speed bumps, and those will be going after your exhaust pipes and anything else under there anyways.
UMI or SLP's should do. I'd probably do UMI were my SLP's not factory installed. I've most of their front end products and they all have proven to be top quality. And usually the best prices to boot.
UMI or SLP's should do. I'd probably do UMI were my SLP's not factory installed. I've most of their front end products and they all have proven to be top quality. And usually the best prices to boot.
#9
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Canada (across the river from DETROIT)
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went with the UMI tubular bolt in with the optional weld in.
They have been bolted in for a year and are currently being welded in as I write this. They immediately made the car much stiffer and were a great mod. I went with the bolt on because I wanted the flexibility of being able to remove to remove them.
One of my good friends just put BMR 3 point bolt on sfc on his 2010 SS. They are a quality looking piece.
I don't think you can go wrong with either company.
They have been bolted in for a year and are currently being welded in as I write this. They immediately made the car much stiffer and were a great mod. I went with the bolt on because I wanted the flexibility of being able to remove to remove them.
One of my good friends just put BMR 3 point bolt on sfc on his 2010 SS. They are a quality looking piece.
I don't think you can go wrong with either company.
#19
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the comments and suggestion guys. Think I'm going to go for the standard UMI tubular weld-ins, not the 3 point ones. The extra cost of the 3 point ones is even greater for me because I'm in the UK and the already steep shipping charge would take another big hike. Also, this is pretty much my daily driver so I doubt I'll ever need the extra rigidity.
What's all this about making sure the suspension is pre-loaded though? How is that achieved?
What's all this about making sure the suspension is pre-loaded though? How is that achieved?
#20