Cutting a terrible 60 ft time what suspension will help
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Cutting a terrible 60 ft time what suspension will help
I have a 98 camaro with a bfg drag radial. I am cutting a 2.0 60ft time what would you suggest I change in the rear suspension to get that time down. Also im running 15 psi in the tires. Any help would be great.
#4
also depends if you are a4 or m6, if you are a4 it will depend what you have for mods. From what I have seen it is hard to get a stock stalled/geared auto much faster then high 1.9s or low 2.0s.
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Best I have pulled a 60' on my stock a4 is a 1.9, and that was only with aftermarket shocks, rear end was still stock. A TQ stalled out will be your best bang for buck to really take that 60' down if you have a a4. I have a 3600 Vig waiting to go in mine, but if you want to do anything for suspension, do LCA and PHB to start, shocks can help also. If you have a m6, then you will need to default to the m6 guys for thoes answers.
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How hard are you spinning the tires when you launch? If you are not spinning them that hard, then you need to look at better gears or more power.
Assuming that you are hitting the tires hard and still getting a 2.0 60 foot time, you should consider a BMR Drag Package. More fast racers (7 sec and 8 sec cars) use BMR than any other suspension company. Although you may never run in the 7 or 8 second zone, it is good to know that your suspension is capable of it.
Here is a link to the BMR Drag Packages. I recommend Level 1 for your horsepower level :
BMR Drag Package
In order to get your car to hook, you need to adjust the Instant Center of the rear suspension. The stock suspension is not adjustable, so you get what you get. The BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets give you 2 settings, and both will give you a better Instant Center than stock. Also, if you can afford it, you should get the BMR Torque Arm Relocation Bracket. This moves the torque arm mounting off of the transmission and it gives you 7 different TA mounting adjustments. Between the TA Relocation Bracket and the Control Arm Relocation Brackets, you will have 14 possible settings. That should be enough to get your car to hook on a variety of different track conditions.
Call Lee at BMR with any questions you have(813-986-9302). Lee know more about 4th Gen suspensions than anyone else in the industry!!
Assuming that you are hitting the tires hard and still getting a 2.0 60 foot time, you should consider a BMR Drag Package. More fast racers (7 sec and 8 sec cars) use BMR than any other suspension company. Although you may never run in the 7 or 8 second zone, it is good to know that your suspension is capable of it.
Here is a link to the BMR Drag Packages. I recommend Level 1 for your horsepower level :
BMR Drag Package
In order to get your car to hook, you need to adjust the Instant Center of the rear suspension. The stock suspension is not adjustable, so you get what you get. The BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets give you 2 settings, and both will give you a better Instant Center than stock. Also, if you can afford it, you should get the BMR Torque Arm Relocation Bracket. This moves the torque arm mounting off of the transmission and it gives you 7 different TA mounting adjustments. Between the TA Relocation Bracket and the Control Arm Relocation Brackets, you will have 14 possible settings. That should be enough to get your car to hook on a variety of different track conditions.
Call Lee at BMR with any questions you have(813-986-9302). Lee know more about 4th Gen suspensions than anyone else in the industry!!
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If your car is bone stock I dont think your gonna see much better than 1.9-2.0 60ft. What rear do you have? With 2.73's it will be even worse. I have a '98 T/A A4 with 3.23 gears and when it was bone stock (only mod was 3 point subframe connectors) went a best of 1.978 60ft and 13.408 @ 103.75. With a lid/exhaust/tune and 255/50R16 MT drag radials the car went 12.71 @ 109.45 but still with only a 1.925 60ft. I run the tires around 18psi cold, and check them after a pass to keep them around 20psi. Even after doing a bunch of rear suspension work (torque arm, LCA's, and panharfd rod) with the stock converter it just didnt leave hard. I just put in an SS4000 and 3.73 gears and now my 60fts dropped in the 1.65-1.67 range and has been 12.41 @ 107.58 so far (3 tenths quicker but 2 mph slower in 2200ft higher DA). While upgrading the suspension wont hurt I dont think suspension is keeping you from seeing better 60fts at this point.
HTH,
Steve
HTH,
Steve
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Best bang for your $$$ will be that stall, its been said before, and I thought the same way, why not do LCA and PHB, but I still waited on a stall, but now I have one and cant wait to see what it will do... Still need to get it put in the car though, lol, then Ill be ready!!
#12
Best bang for your $$$ will be that stall, its been said before, and I thought the same way, why not do LCA and PHB, but I still waited on a stall, but now I have one and cant wait to see what it will do... Still need to get it put in the car though, lol, then Ill be ready!!
But did the other parts help at all?
#13
I was thinking of welding extra metal into the stock lower control arms and poly mounts, anyone think this will help any? I have M/t 255/50/16s and was also looking for good shocks to use. only little mods so far but before the lsfest I'm hoping for a 100 shot, hedders and maybe 1.85 rockers. any suggestions would be great, thanks in advance.
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bang for the buck? stall converter.
From a 2.08 60' 8.4 1/8th mile stock stall to a 1.68 60' 7.7 1/8th mile with the only change being the circle d 4c stall converter. Tires are 26" et streets bias ply. I dont have a drag suspension either... its lowered hotchkis springs with bilsteins. Stock control arms and torque arm.
7 tenths in the 1/8th.... Thats bang for the buck.
From a 2.08 60' 8.4 1/8th mile stock stall to a 1.68 60' 7.7 1/8th mile with the only change being the circle d 4c stall converter. Tires are 26" et streets bias ply. I dont have a drag suspension either... its lowered hotchkis springs with bilsteins. Stock control arms and torque arm.
7 tenths in the 1/8th.... Thats bang for the buck.
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2.0 in a stock-stalled, stock-geared, stock-suspension automatic equipped car is pretty much the norm. Seriously, a set of control arms, 3:73 gears, and 3600 stall converter will easily knock a second off your quarter mile times and 4 tenths off your 60 ft/times. Right now you are leaving the line a few thousand rpm "under" your torque curve so until you can fix that with a converter it's going to be hard to increase your 60 ft/times much. I realize your on a budget so I would start with a set of tubular control arms and relocation brackets. Just understand that you are only looking at maybe a tenth or so gain unless you either give it more power, more converter, or both.