Upgrade Brakes Suggestions - 95 T/A
01-09-2012, 08:00 AM
#1
Upgrade Brakes Suggestions - 95 T/A Guys,
I've shelved a project to do some work on my heads, due to the little gain vs. cost of project. Now I'd like to turn to the brakes and see what upgrades I can make to improve their performance. Here's what I have now -
PowerSlot Rotors (all 4)
Hawk Pads (all 4)
Stock Claipers
Stock lines
American Racing TTM - 17" wheels
I know the most popular upgrade on the LT1's is to go with the LS1 brake setup up front, however I'd like to see what other kits there are out there that will work with my existing wheels.
Any advise is much appreciated.
I've shelved a project to do some work on my heads, due to the little gain vs. cost of project. Now I'd like to turn to the brakes and see what upgrades I can make to improve their performance. Here's what I have now -
PowerSlot Rotors (all 4)
Hawk Pads (all 4)
Stock Claipers
Stock lines
American Racing TTM - 17" wheels
I know the most popular upgrade on the LT1's is to go with the LS1 brake setup up front, however I'd like to see what other kits there are out there that will work with my existing wheels.
Any advise is much appreciated.
01-09-2012, 11:50 AM
#2
Dave--
I have a lot of options... I'd recommend the ATE rotors, here's the set of 4 http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=5&ModelID=2 for a few reasons. Mostly the rotors are a known commodity that meet and exceed OEM specification. ATE is an OEM supplier to the likes of BMW and Porsche, among others. And they way the slots have no sharp end points means they are more durable as there aren't any stress risers like there can be with straight slots. Also you'll notice the slots don't run to the edge of the rotor, and again this is for strength.
Team the ATE rotors up with some Hawk HPS's and it'll be a lot better than whatever probably parts store stuff you have now. But I would strongly urge you to consider a change of brake lines and fluid. The lines are 16 years old, the rubber will have started to crack and just from pure use the fiberglass braid inside will have weakened. Being a hydraulic system, when you step on the pedal and the lines swell that's power you don't get to the calipers. Fluid is the medium which transfers that force. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and brakes make heat. Add those two up and you can get basically steam which is compressible. Fluid is to be changed every 2 years as part of normal maintenance.... I bet yours is older.
FWIW, I can do the rotors and lines for $411. You we can add lines and fluid too if you wish. I also have other rotors ranging from less expensive blanks (no slots, no coating) to other brands like PowerStop and PowerSlot and Racing Brake too. It's hard for me to get all options on my website, I'm just one guy... So you won't see all the options, because I feel what I've described as the best setup for your wants. But rest assured I have those items and not recommending others simply because I can't get other stuff.
I have a lot of options... I'd recommend the ATE rotors, here's the set of 4 http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=5&ModelID=2 for a few reasons. Mostly the rotors are a known commodity that meet and exceed OEM specification. ATE is an OEM supplier to the likes of BMW and Porsche, among others. And they way the slots have no sharp end points means they are more durable as there aren't any stress risers like there can be with straight slots. Also you'll notice the slots don't run to the edge of the rotor, and again this is for strength.
Team the ATE rotors up with some Hawk HPS's and it'll be a lot better than whatever probably parts store stuff you have now. But I would strongly urge you to consider a change of brake lines and fluid. The lines are 16 years old, the rubber will have started to crack and just from pure use the fiberglass braid inside will have weakened. Being a hydraulic system, when you step on the pedal and the lines swell that's power you don't get to the calipers. Fluid is the medium which transfers that force. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and brakes make heat. Add those two up and you can get basically steam which is compressible. Fluid is to be changed every 2 years as part of normal maintenance.... I bet yours is older.
FWIW, I can do the rotors and lines for $411. You we can add lines and fluid too if you wish. I also have other rotors ranging from less expensive blanks (no slots, no coating) to other brands like PowerStop and PowerSlot and Racing Brake too. It's hard for me to get all options on my website, I'm just one guy... So you won't see all the options, because I feel what I've described as the best setup for your wants. But rest assured I have those items and not recommending others simply because I can't get other stuff.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
01-09-2012, 11:56 AM
#3
Dave--
I have a lot of options... I'd recommend the ATE rotors, here's the set of 4 http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=5&ModelID=2 for a few reasons. Mostly the rotors are a known commodity that meet and exceed OEM specification. ATE is an OEM supplier to the likes of BMW and Porsche, among others. And they way the slots have no sharp end points means they are more durable as there aren't any stress risers like there can be with straight slots. Also you'll notice the slots don't run to the edge of the rotor, and again this is for strength.
Team the ATE rotors up with some Hawk HPS's and it'll be a lot better than whatever probably parts store stuff you have now. But I would strongly urge you to consider a change of brake lines and fluid. The lines are 16 years old, the rubber will have started to crack and just from pure use the fiberglass braid inside will have weakened. Being a hydraulic system, when you step on the pedal and the lines swell that's power you don't get to the calipers. Fluid is the medium which transfers that force. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and brakes make heat. Add those two up and you can get basically steam which is compressible. Fluid is to be changed every 2 years as part of normal maintenance.... I bet yours is older.
FWIW, I can do the rotors and lines for $411. You we can add lines and fluid too if you wish. I also have other rotors ranging from less expensive blanks (no slots, no coating) to other brands like PowerStop and PowerSlot and Racing Brake too. It's hard for me to get all options on my website, I'm just one guy... So you won't see all the options, because I feel what I've described as the best setup for your wants. But rest assured I have those items and not recommending others simply because I can't get other stuff.
I have a lot of options... I'd recommend the ATE rotors, here's the set of 4 http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=5&ModelID=2 for a few reasons. Mostly the rotors are a known commodity that meet and exceed OEM specification. ATE is an OEM supplier to the likes of BMW and Porsche, among others. And they way the slots have no sharp end points means they are more durable as there aren't any stress risers like there can be with straight slots. Also you'll notice the slots don't run to the edge of the rotor, and again this is for strength.
Team the ATE rotors up with some Hawk HPS's and it'll be a lot better than whatever probably parts store stuff you have now. But I would strongly urge you to consider a change of brake lines and fluid. The lines are 16 years old, the rubber will have started to crack and just from pure use the fiberglass braid inside will have weakened. Being a hydraulic system, when you step on the pedal and the lines swell that's power you don't get to the calipers. Fluid is the medium which transfers that force. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and brakes make heat. Add those two up and you can get basically steam which is compressible. Fluid is to be changed every 2 years as part of normal maintenance.... I bet yours is older.
FWIW, I can do the rotors and lines for $411. You we can add lines and fluid too if you wish. I also have other rotors ranging from less expensive blanks (no slots, no coating) to other brands like PowerStop and PowerSlot and Racing Brake too. It's hard for me to get all options on my website, I'm just one guy... So you won't see all the options, because I feel what I've described as the best setup for your wants. But rest assured I have those items and not recommending others simply because I can't get other stuff.
