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Name that a-arm.......?????

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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Default Name that a-arm.......?????

i bought these off a member that told me that they were AJE lower a-arms. After a little research they are definately NOT made by AJE. They dont look like spohns, so that leaves me with BMR or UMI. BMR's look like they have the ball joint tube at the end slash cut which mine are not. So i thought these are UMI but the mounting flange for the strut doesnt look like the ones pictured on their website. SO WHO MAKES THESE??



Biggest reason i need to know is im replacing the ball joints but the Moog (part#K6145T)ball joints are 1/8" too large to fit in the hole. So what ball joint should i use? Heres a side shot of the ones i removed compared to the Moogs
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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I would sends pics to both UMI and BMR...who knows they might have changed the style along the way.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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Those would be BMR I am pretty sure.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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yeah that is my next step, i just dont understand why that ball joint wont fit when i read that is the replacement for BMR and UMI lower arms. I did find another thread with the same problem (1/8" thicker) but it was never resolved in the thread.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 09:56 AM
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Hello there, sorry for the delay, Kyle and I are downstairs working on a CTS-V, but yes, these look like they are our old A-Arms (AA002), which have used the same ball joints the entire time.

We have since changed the sleeves and the bushings, but still carry replacement parts for both. As for the ball joint, I have our shipping guy looking up the part number for me, so I should have that for you later. We moved to the angle-cut ball joint cup for wheel/brake clearance purposes.

Let me know if there is anything you're looking to know, but I'll have the replacement ball joint part number for you soon.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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thanks kevin i appreciate the help.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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You're very welcome. The part number for the ball joint is K6145.

I just noticed that these are the same part numbers as the one you bought as replacements. The press portion will be the same but, from the looks of it, the end may need to be shaved down to fit inside the cup. All aftermarket ball joints are different in how they are designed, so it seems.

Let me know how it goes and if there is anything else I can help you with.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Last edited by BMR Tech2; Jan 6, 2012 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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thanks for the help, i think tomorrow i will try shaving the edge down on the base of the ***** joints so they will slide in. The portion that gets "pressed" in looked right to me, i just didn't want to grind on a set of ball joints if they weren't the correct ones. I will repost tom. how it went.

Last edited by fastassls1maro; Jan 6, 2012 at 06:01 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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well, i used my bench grinder yesterday and shaved the bottom portion of the ball joints down by spinning and applying light pressure at the same time. I had to do this for about 3-4 revolutions until they would slide in the a-arms with ease. I also too my die grinder with a sanding drum on it and cleaned the paint off the inside of the cup area where the ball joint goes. So for anyone wondering if you buy MOOG ball joints (part#6145T) it may require they be shaved down to fit the a-arms.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fastassls1maro
well, i used my bench grinder yesterday and shaved the bottom portion of the ball joints down by spinning and applying light pressure at the same time. I had to do this for about 3-4 revolutions until they would slide in the a-arms with ease. I also too my die grinder with a sanding drum on it and cleaned the paint off the inside of the cup area where the ball joint goes. So for anyone wondering if you buy MOOG ball joints (part#6145T) it may require they be shaved down to fit the a-arms.
Damn, sounds like a real pain. Next time you need a new ball joint, you know what kind of arms they are now, so give us a call and we should have a direct swap. At least the MOOG part worked out for you.

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