INTENESS

iTrader: (4)

I have a spohn rear drag bar,I just took the rear out of the car for some work.What is the best way to setup the rear drag bar?I no I have to preload the pass side with my weight in the car.

ShifterLou

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, I'm not familiar...but is this an ARB?

I run mine neutral, no preload....but set up on a level surface, race weight, driver in the car.
Any adjustments after that are make at the track

Fwiw, I've gone 1.50 flat 60's on a radial tire in my 11.30 street strip car

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

To start off with just run the bar neutral without any preload. Get it to the track and make a couple runs and see how it launches and that will determine if you need to run any preload in the bar. Most cars like the bar set neutral but each car is a little different so you wont know what it really wants till you launch the car a few times..

BrianSF-GA

I am running the same bar ....

1. Remove your stock rear sway bar, end links, and upper end link mounts (on rear sub-frames).

2. Jack up the rear of the car and place jack stands under rear end housing. Let jack down so the weight of the car is on the rear housing. This will place the rear suspension at ride height. (Note: Place jack stands in the area of the LCA mounts so they do not interfere with sway bar installation.)

3. It’s time to prepare the sway bar for installation. Note that when orientating the sway bar, the center bend faces down. Remove the poly bushings from their shell. Using the supplied grease packs apply silicone grease liberally to the inside of both sway bar bushings. Install the poly bushings onto each end of the sway bar, and re-install the bushing shells.

4. Note: From here on out, this is a two person job as the amount of things that need to be done exceed two hands, not to mention the weight of the bar! Place a u-bolt on one end of the rear housing. Now slide a spacer saddle over the u-bolt and hold it in place. The second person can now hold the sway bar in position. Slide the bushing shell onto the u-bolt. Install the flat washers and then the lock nuts, only make hand tight at this time (start them as far as you can by hand). Now you can let this end hang down until it rests on the u-bolt. Repeat the same procedure on the other end of the sway bar.

5. Tighten all four of the u-bolt lock nuts until you have them barely snug, do not fully tighten. Now you want to make sure the sway bar is centered on the rear side to side, and front to back. Position the sway bar side to side until you have the same distance from the outside of the bar to the shock on both ends. Position the bar front to back so that the bar runs along the center line of the bottom of the axle tubes.

6. Next you want to install the upper end link mounts (plate with bolt welded to it). These bolt in place where the OEM upper end link mount was located on the sides of the rear sub-frame. Re-use the stock bolts (two per side) to mount these. (Note: If you have a base model car that was not factory equipped with a rear sway bar, your car still has these mounts in the frame, but you will need to get the four mounting bolts. You can obtain them from a donor car, or call us, we have these GM bolts available for purchase)

7. Next you want to install the rod ended end links. We have already set them at the proper length (7.5” c-c), do not change the length. Keep the end link mounted to the sway bar as shipped. On the top mount, install the zinc coated spacer sleeve onto the bolt, then install the top rod end onto the bolt. Now you can install the lock nut and fully tighten. Fully tighten the bottom bolt where the end link is mounted to the sway bar.

8. With both end links installed and tightened, you can now fully tighten the lock nuts on the u-bolts. Do not over tighten the u-bolts or the bar will not rotate properly. You should be able to rotate the bar by hand with force.

9. Jack the car up and remove the jack stands, place vehicle back on the ground.

10. Now we’re going to adjust the sway bar and set it with the proper pre-load. Place the jack under the front of the car, make sure the jack is perfectly centered on the front crossmember. Jack the front of the car in the air until the front tires are BARELY off of the ground, stop there.

11. Check your rear tire pressures and make sure you have the exact same pressure in both rear tires. Set your rear tire pressure to whatever psi you run them at when racing at the track.

12. Whoever will be driving this vehicle now needs to sit in the driver’s seat of the car, shut the driver’s door. (Simulate driving the car).

13. Measure from the lower rear corner of both the driver’s and passenger’s side door jam to the ground (car should be on a level surface, ie. cement). We’re looking to have the driver’s side 1/16” lower then the passenger’s side.

14. Adjust the passenger’s side end link (by lengthening or shortening) until you achieve the above setting. Tighten the jam nuts and re-check your dimensions. Once you have the adjustment properly set, tighten all four jam nuts on both end links. Note: We recommend using removable strength Loctite on the threads to keep the jam nuts tight on a street driven car.

15. With this sway bar set up, if you were previously running an air bag in your spring, remove it. You also want to run the same rear spring rate on both sides of the car.