MrBluGruv

So I'm trying to get a better understanding of the practical purpose of an improved torque arm over the factory one. It seems as though, like most suspension part descriptions, most information out there is kinda cloudy jargon (or very possibly, I just don't understand what they are saying in the context of actual usage).

The best description I can find is that it improves straight line power delivery to the wheels, but I can't find any sort of detailed description of how or why.

While I would appreciate some deeper technical insight, the bottom line of what I want to know can probably come down to two questions:

1. Assuming I had tires with no traction issues, in what way will the aftermarket torque arm show me improvement?

2. Assuming my tires leave a decent bit to be desired when it comes to traction, in what ways, if any, would the torque arm help me out?


For reference, I am running Bilstein HD shocks on all four corners and am also running UMI solid 35/22 sway bars, everything else for suspension is stock.

As for my goals, I have no intention of ever going to the drag strip, but I like to be able to actually grab the road and go whenever I find a situation to play on the street. I highly doubt I would track race or auto-x, but I do like a car that can grab the road well and be compliant during cornering.

Aside from the above two questions, is an aftermarket torque arm even worth looking at for my goals?

JD_AMG

From what I've found, if descriptions are "cloudy" then the part usually is very little noticable.
The idea is that with enough power/traction the factory torque arm could flex (or break). An aftermarket one supposedly wont (or shouldn't). Like you, I don't really drag race hard either, im more for cornering/all around performance.
I have a full length UMI torque arm, its a very nice solid piece, but I noticed very little from it. The rear is a little more planted maybe, and some of the wheel hop I had was lessened, but thats its. For cornering its a minimal difference at best. Biggest differences will come from tires, shocks, springs, swaybars, alignment, wattslink, and thats pretty much it suspension wise.
A decoupled torque arm is supposed to be a different story, but I don't have any experience with those.

justin hover

It prevents rear quarter panel dimples from hard launches, keeps the chassis in its place for lauching. It does help with an overall complete suspension setup keeping the wheels planted. Torque arm by itself for dd use...you wouldn't even know you have one.

MrBluGruv

Thank you both for the insight.

Ultimately, since this car isn't planned to be a serious track racer, I don't see the suspension mods going too much further than now. MAYBE springs, but since pretty much every set of springs introduces a drop, I'd have to get some other supporting hardware as well. I'm not real keen on the idea of aftermarket LCAs as there are almost impossible to find with rubber bushings. I'm just as curious about the panhard rod as I am/was about the torque arm, but currently (just like the torque arm) I'm kinda leaning against needing it. I'm pretty firmly against getting SFCs, as well as a shock tower brace. I'm not sure I really push the car enough to warrant converting to a Watts link.

I'm beginning to think a proper set of grippy tires will get me where I want to be; the set on the car now is in pretty bad need of replacement, and if it is "satisfactory" with these tires, I get the feeling it should be great with proper ones.

rabbit320

iTrader: (11)

my car is a dd, and i dont drag race. i did notice a difference in putting the power down going straight, but this part wont do anything really for cornering. one thing i loved is that the "porpoise-ing" effect the car has when going over train tracks or multiple bumps was severely diminished, if not gone. if your into cornering i would start with the panhard first, i should have gone with at least one rod end, as i notice around some corners the rear hope a little, i think because of limited travel with poly. just for ***** and giggles id check your torque arm bushing, and maybe, maybe just replace that... the last thing i did was lca's and i did not notice a difference.

rabbit320

iTrader: (11)

btw i have a small write up about how to do a tq arm easier if you do end up getting one. one thing i left out of it was the point that is near the trans, is really close to a electrical connector, i would have ground out a bit for clearance, dont think its given me any issues tho

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

For the cost of bushings and getting pressed in I got some Founders 3 piece poly joint LCAs. They are supposed to be a happy medium between rubber and a rod end. I'll try to remember to report back on how they handle/feel/etc, but the thing is I don't have a good reference point. My stock LCAs are totally shot, the shocks are shot, the bushings are shot, and I'm replacing all those things at the same time. ANYTHING would feel better than what I have now

The only real reason I would see to get an aftermarket panhard is if you lowered the car or you damaged your original somehow. I got Strano springs to install so that's why I got an adjustable panhard.

SMKE EM

iTrader: (2)

The aftermarket torque arms that relocate the mounting point from the rear of the trans to the trans k-member help tremendously by removing stress off the tailshaft of the transmissions.

That is a huge advantage alone at least for the M6's, as I hear high torque launches have been known to cause damage to the tailshaft housing.

I never knew about rear quarter panel dimples though, interesting...

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I have an edelbrock torque arm(tranny mount) . I like to hit it from a roll and pull it up to 6k.Drag racing from a roll.The torque arm deffinately makes the wheels have more solid traction. When I would hit it from a roll before my car tended to go sidways. The factory arm tends to flex,it's complete crap.
I like to hit the canyons too. It seem more responsive in the corners.I have 410rwhp so I think it was well worth the money. Ask a bunch of people get a bunch of answers.I think it is worth the money and it is an overlooked upgrade.I can't say if it will be an improvement with an auto
but it is on an m6.
The rest of your setup must be at par,shocks,tires,sway bars,lca's,etc,etc.

Tbird232ci

iTrader: (4)

The biggest advantage is that you are able to adjust your pinion angle as you lower your car.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

No absolutely not.. you just use your car for a sprited daily driver. All you get with the aftermarket torque arm is something that pushes up on the front of the body during accelleration and pulls down on the front of the body during braking more firmly. Do you think you need that? I ran a stock torque arm for most of my racing career. It was fine! When I got tired of getting behind the car next to me on the launches... I decided to go with a shorter style torque arm (UE decoupled torque arm). But you don't want that unless you are really trying to fix something for racing. The shorter style torque arm provides more anti squat under my sort of power and plants the wheels harder during accelleration. It helped big time.

I would stick with the stock arm if I were you. That will also provide you the best daily driveability characteristics.

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering this too - my car will be basically stock (not even sure if I'll go intake/headers on it) and it's an M6. At what point do I need to worry about the trans tailshaft? That'd really be my only reason for considering an upgrade.

LILWS6

The stock arm can twist causing loss of traction. I need a new torque arm (mines twisted) I'll be getting a non adj. one since i have no problems on my strano springs with the stock arm.