Ordered Viking Coilovers For Front And Rear For My WS6
#1
Ordered Viking Coilovers For Front And Rear For My WS6
Well, after a long time of saying I was going to get them, I finally placed my order yesterday with Midwest Chassis, so the Mongoose is going to be getting a much needed suspension upgrade. First off, those are a great group of guys who took good care of me, so thank you to them for hooking me up. I look forward to doing business with you guys in the future, and will likely be calling back once I get them on for some "baseline" settings. I ordered yesterday afternoon, and when I got to work this morning, I already had a UPS e-mail for tracking information.
I have a question for all of the guys running the Viking 4 corner coilover setup; what are the settings you are currently running? My car is a weekend play toy that I do drive quite a bit during the warm months, but it's by no means a daily driver. As my build progresses, I'm going to be hitting the track quite a bit, and have already planned out several track days/weekends this spring/summer. So, it would be nice to hear from you guys on what settings you are running and how you like them. That would help give me a baseline for setting mine up. I know that everyone's going to have a different opinion/feel on what is best, but it helps give me a good starting point. From there, I'll fine tune the adjustments for street driving and then have separate settings for the track. Looks like they are going to arrive Thursday, so if time allows this weekend, hopefully I'll get them on. I know one guy on here has a really good write-up for installing them with logs of pictures, so I'll be referencing that thread. Thanks in advance for the help guys.
I have a question for all of the guys running the Viking 4 corner coilover setup; what are the settings you are currently running? My car is a weekend play toy that I do drive quite a bit during the warm months, but it's by no means a daily driver. As my build progresses, I'm going to be hitting the track quite a bit, and have already planned out several track days/weekends this spring/summer. So, it would be nice to hear from you guys on what settings you are running and how you like them. That would help give me a baseline for setting mine up. I know that everyone's going to have a different opinion/feel on what is best, but it helps give me a good starting point. From there, I'll fine tune the adjustments for street driving and then have separate settings for the track. Looks like they are going to arrive Thursday, so if time allows this weekend, hopefully I'll get them on. I know one guy on here has a really good write-up for installing them with logs of pictures, so I'll be referencing that thread. Thanks in advance for the help guys.
#3
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Viking includes paperwork with the shocks. They have recommended settings. Example: 500hp, front compression 3-6, rebound 6-10 (made those numbers up). I chose dead center so I went say 4 compression, 8 rebound. Did the same for front and rear. The car rides nice, it really does. If you jam the brakes you get some nose dive but during normal driving you wont notice they are there. MWC also gave me some slightly more aggressive setting suggestions so I think Im gonna go back and swap to that next time Im under the car. Also, I did need 3 separate attempts to get ride height exactly where I wanted in the front. I set it the first time and it was in the weeds. So I marked the collar with a sharpie and turned each side 6 complete rotations tighter that way it lifted evenly. That proved not enough and I believe I went 4 more and its just about right. Tip, don't adjust and drop the side and expect it to show true, it won't at all. You need to adjust both sides completely, then roll the car 10-20 feet then inspect....otherwise you will really be shooting yourself in the foot. Since height controls tire lean an alignment is recommended afterwards.
#4
Viking includes paperwork with the shocks. They have recommended settings. Example: 500hp, front compression 3-6, rebound 6-10 (made those numbers up). I chose dead center so I went say 4 compression, 8 rebound. Did the same for front and rear. The car rides nice, it really does. If you jam the brakes you get some nose dive but during normal driving you wont notice they are there. MWC also gave me some slightly more aggressive setting suggestions so I think Im gonna go back and swap to that next time Im under the car. Also, I did need 3 separate attempts to get ride height exactly where I wanted in the front. I set it the first time and it was in the weeds. So I marked the collar with a sharpie and turned each side 6 complete rotations tighter that way it lifted evenly. That proved not enough and I believe I went 4 more and its just about right. Tip, don't adjust and drop the side and expect it to show true, it won't at all. You need to adjust both sides completely, then roll the car 10-20 feet then inspect....otherwise you will really be shooting yourself in the foot. Since height controls tire lean an alignment is recommended afterwards.
#6
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There really no way to tell. I tightened the collars till they butted up against the spring firmly and counted the threads under to make sure both were even and that was my starting point. The back was just about dead nuts on but the front was way off.
#7
Appreciate the responses guys. I'll just leave them where they are out of the box and make my adjustments once I've got them on the car. I would assume after I have the ride height dead nuts where I want it, that would be a good time to take the car in for an alignment?
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Unless you match the ride height near perfectly then it would be fine but never a bad idea to take it in and have it checked. You could measure the fender height before and after and get pretty dang close id bet.
#11
Rear shock mounts just arrived a few minutes ago from MWC. From what I've been reading, I think I can get away from having to use a spring compressor by purchasing new top mounts for the front coilovers. In all likelihood, the ones on my car now are probably worn out and I'm sure the bolt is rusted. Can anyone give me a link, or part number to the top mounts I'll need. Am I correct that I won't need a spring compressor if I buy new top mounts to use with the new setup?
#12
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I'm ready for you to get them on and give a good personal review as you do on everything else.
#17
Moog seems to be the way to go. I know for sure I need these part numbers:
MOOG Part # K6516
Front Left Upper
MOOG Part # K6517
Front Right Upper
I might as well get these too while I'm at it, but do I need two or each of these part numbers?
Coil Spring Insulator
MOOG Part # K6573
Front Upper
Coil Spring Seat
MOOG Part # K80927
Incl. spring pan; Front Lower
Midwest Chassis, I appreciate the PM. I may just order all of this through you guys if it ends up being around the same price.
MOOG Part # K6516
Front Left Upper
MOOG Part # K6517
Front Right Upper
I might as well get these too while I'm at it, but do I need two or each of these part numbers?
Coil Spring Insulator
MOOG Part # K6573
Front Upper
Coil Spring Seat
MOOG Part # K80927
Incl. spring pan; Front Lower
Midwest Chassis, I appreciate the PM. I may just order all of this through you guys if it ends up being around the same price.
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Mine was rusty. I didnt order new tops though so I was determined to reuse them. I took a cutoff wheel and sliced to bolt plus jammed a socket on and used and impact. Its rather uneventful when the pop loose, not enough stored energy to hurt anybody so no spring compressor needed if you go that route.