02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

ok im looking into getting a BMR solid torque arm...or adjustable unsure of what i want...now i would like to get a 455 stroker in the futurs and dont wnat to haveta buy another torque arm after this one...i will aslo have a 12 bolt rear if that help is any good info either Strange or Moser...unless some1 can ell me otherwise...

what are this torque arms limitations...will it withstand the +515 hp and +520 ft-lbs with the new rear....whish torque arm would be best Adj. or solid?....ill need the tranny munted 1 from what i hear since i am getting QTP or Kooks Lt's catted Y and GMMG

anybody know if its safe...cuz i kno for a fact that the 455 will break into 10's...especially since the ZL1 camaro i saw a vid of did a 11.14 from idle so it sounds damn good to me if this has better numbers...or atleast bigger cubes withs ome of the same features or more cam

guadofreak

iTrader: (1)

if you plan on putting any REAL power down DO NOT get a tranny mounted torque arm you WILL break the tail shaft. adjustable is always better since it is.... adjustable.

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

well what do you all think with a 455 stroker frmo MTI dropped wiht full boltons and since the exuast will be LT's catted Y and GMMG

John95Z28

How come you've already decided on BMR?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/212413-bmr-track-pack-t-broke.html
And more to the point, why get an aftermarket torque arm at all? The stock unit can take you into the 10 sec range
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/213352-60-ft-times-stock-torque-arm.html
I'd suggest you start with your power mods, then address any traction problems as they arise, starting with shocks and LCAs

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

well what torque arm would be best...if stock is really that good then why are there aftermarket ones?...ive been told Lt's catted Y and GMMG wont fit with a non tranny mounted torque arm...is that true?...if so...whats the best to get? and what does BMR mean by the whole tailshaft mounting not capable of going under 11 seconds...is that the mount on the rear end?...or the the joint on the torque arm?...would an aftermarket 12 bolt take car eof that problem?

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

Adjustable torque arms aide in setting the pinion angle . . . who's is better . . do your research . . . A trans mounted arm, more than likely will suit you, but there are different choices, check out the data available form the manufacturer's . . . see what chassis mods are acceptable to you and make your best choice.

My opinoin . . . I feel an djustable is the way to go . . . if you are going to change the arm get the adjustablity aswell, since it can help with wheel hop and loss of traction.

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

what is the problem with BMR's tested under 11.0 is said seomthing with the the tailshaft housing mount?...that is on the rear end correct?...if so would the ones on the Strange 12 bolt or Moser 12 bolt do it? what can i expect from it

and for the adjustable torque arm...how do i kno the best setting? and whats the best way to adjust it

John95Z28

I've never read a bad word about LG motorsports gear, so my vote is for a G2 torque arm if you're having traction issues and shocks/LCAs/relo brackets haven't solved it for you.

The stock T/A might not be that wonderful, but it's not as useless as everyone seems to assume it is. I think advertising hype sells a lot of torque arms, along with poly bushing LCAs and cross-drilled brake rotors. Maybe I'm defying 'conventional wisdom' and I'm going to get flamed for this, but my suggestion is to stick with the T/A unless there's a compelling reason to change it. Wait until you're producing xxx horsepower and see how it works for you then.

John95Z28

It should come from the manufacturer with instructions on how to adjust, and maybe even a little angle finder dohickey

sikws6

A stock torque arm will take that kind of power sure but what happens is the torque arm deflects so much under load that when the car first leaves and hooks it deflects then springs back probably unloading the tires and then spinning,if you are going to buy a torque arm I would be sure to fully investigate your choices as decide what compromises you are willing to take either for handling ,drag racing or increased noise from the suspension,Then decide

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

Hey Adam, I'm putting on a BMR adj. T/A next week. I'll let you check it out.

Damage Inc.

iTrader: (7)

That's the worst advice I've heard so far. Sure make over 500 HP with an MTI stroker. Then work on hooking it. Right. That's why bolton cars making less than 350 HP are running low/mid elevens. I've seen big cubed motors run 12s! I'm not trying to bash you, but TRACTION! FOR THE LOVE OF *@# TRACTION!

PS- Wanna race my sub 350HP car? Head up.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Some people dis BMR stuff. I have their LCAs & they are fine. I bought the SLP adj TqA, and it too is fine. And it came with instructions & a pinion angle meter. You WILL need LACs if you don't have them yet with that kind of power (& brackets if your car is lowered). Like John said, TRACTION!

6']['9

iTrader: (2)

The only problem ive had w/the bmr/moser combo is that the tqarm mount that goes to the moser is a pos it has broken 2x. I have never been to the track and i very seldom street race but i do drive it hard from time to time. Your going to need longer bolts that bolt up the tq arm to the moser. Since the stock unit has 2 long *** bolts your going to need to utilize 4 grade 8 bolts i dont know the bolt pattern off hand but you better remember the numbers cause when they break your going to have to go to a bolt shop. You are not going to be able to find those any where else.

John95Z28

Thanks for not bashing me Guess I asked for it

Well okay, if a stiffer T/A makes a 1 second difference in the 1/4, as you're implying, then its a good investment (you've convinced me). 02WS6Bird didn't say if he's building a drag car, but that's the assumption. I still don't see the problem with building up the motor first, and then before you race it get the aftermarket T/A done up. I mean really what's the worst case scenario; he doesn't hook worth crap on the stock T/A, then installs a nice LGM piece a week later and drops 1-2 seconds ET? He could go on to fame and fortune as their company spokesman. Doing the T/A first seems like overkill to me, especially if the 515hp motor is years away, but who am I to argue. After all its your car and your money

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

well the 455 stroker will be in the future....but i will have full bolt-on's and heads....a rear end...and well thats really gonna be it...other than suspension all except a drop....the drop will come after the 1/4 times with the 455

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

i want this car to be streetable....drag strip monster and take the corners TIGHT