What sway bar, Spohn or Wolfe?
10-03-2005, 01:29 AM
#1
What sway bar, Spohn or Wolfe? I am prety sure that I have bent mine. I hit a curb, and since then when I accelerate my rear end is all over the place causing my car to go towards all directions. I had one bent rim, and got that fixed. I looked at the sway bar, but visibly it didn't look bent, but who knows. I will also replace the panhard bar just to be safe.
On to my question, what sway bar will help me get a better 60ft and still be prety street drivable. I know that a lot of fast cars just get the Spohn or BMR drag sway bars, but I know that for all out racing people recommend the Wolfe that you need to weld in. What do you guys suggest for a street car. Thanks
On to my question, what sway bar will help me get a better 60ft and still be prety street drivable. I know that a lot of fast cars just get the Spohn or BMR drag sway bars, but I know that for all out racing people recommend the Wolfe that you need to weld in. What do you guys suggest for a street car. Thanks
10-03-2005, 02:33 AM
#2
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Get the bolt on bar, when you gut the car, or ride around on slicks and skinnys on a daily basis, then do the wolfe. As you hitting the curb, I would take things apart and look at them just to be on the safe side. Id also pull the axle to see if its bent.
10-03-2005, 08:39 AM
#3
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It would be very surprising if you bent a sway bar
in normal suspension travel (bump stop to full drop).
Curbing it in the middle, yes (had one of those, on
one of my beaters).
You might check the Panhard upper mount, that's
pretty flimsy sheet metal sandwich with only a few
spot welds, and the lower control arms. These are
what take the side-side and front-rear impact forces.
Since this was event related you ought to do the
inspection I think. Otherwise you may replace a lot
of parts before narrowing it down to a non-parts
problem (like messed up body mount geometry etc.).
You can pull the Panhard and sway bar and tell by
squinting whether there's any distortion there, and
look for weld cracking on the Panhard ends. With
the bar out you can get a better look at the mount
up in the axle arch, too.
in normal suspension travel (bump stop to full drop).
Curbing it in the middle, yes (had one of those, on
one of my beaters).
You might check the Panhard upper mount, that's
pretty flimsy sheet metal sandwich with only a few
spot welds, and the lower control arms. These are
what take the side-side and front-rear impact forces.
Since this was event related you ought to do the
inspection I think. Otherwise you may replace a lot
of parts before narrowing it down to a non-parts
problem (like messed up body mount geometry etc.).
You can pull the Panhard and sway bar and tell by
squinting whether there's any distortion there, and
look for weld cracking on the Panhard ends. With
the bar out you can get a better look at the mount
up in the axle arch, too.
10-03-2005, 10:09 AM
#4
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Our extreme rear sway bar is 1.25" thick. We generally sell these for race application although we have customers using them on daily drivers also. You will just have to realize that if you decide on the BMR or Spohn, being that the bar is so thick, it is going to cause the car to over steer in street applications.
10-03-2005, 05:32 PM
#5
Originally Posted by BMR Fabrication Inc.
You will just have to realize that if you decide on the BMR or Spohn, being that the bar is so thick, it is going to cause the car to over steer in street applications.
I'm using WOLFE's weld in rod end linked bar. Noticed a big improvement in how the car reacted at launch AND on the street.... when you start going w/serious straight line suspension parts, you need to excercise a good bit of wisdom on the street.... a trade off of sorts.
My car is in that grey area.... not a DD, but not a dedicated max effort track car either. I just putt around like Grandpa Blavin's on the street. No problem.
