BFH and adj. PHR, but still rubbing
09-04-2007, 12:43 PM
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BFH and adj. PHR, but still rubbing I have 18x10.5s with 295-35 rubber in the rear of my 2000 TA. After I lowered her, I started getting some rubbing on hard turns. Not wanting to do BFH mod, I first ordered a single adj. PHR from UMI. I still had rubbing on hard turns. So I broke down and did some BFH where I could see the tire had rubbed on the wheel well. It got rid of most of the rubbing issues, but if I take a turn hard enough, it will still manage to rub. I really dont want to do more BFH. The idea of hammering my car kinda makes me 
. So, I would like to hear some opinions on how I can stiffen up my rearend a little more to prevent the rear from shifting and rubbing. Suspension mods consist of:
-Eibach Pro-kit
-Bilstein shocks
-SLP bolt-in subframe connectors
-UMI single adj. PHR
The next thing on my list was sway bars, but if there is something I can purchase that will help me with my dilemma, I will.
. So, I would like to hear some opinions on how I can stiffen up my rearend a little more to prevent the rear from shifting and rubbing. Suspension mods consist of:-Eibach Pro-kit
-Bilstein shocks
-SLP bolt-in subframe connectors
-UMI single adj. PHR
The next thing on my list was sway bars, but if there is something I can purchase that will help me with my dilemma, I will.
09-04-2007, 12:56 PM
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My brother just got some Speedline Z06 wheels and was experiencing the same thing. He had to BFH and after that it still seems like it will rub on the outside fender lip when the car dips. He'll have to roll the fender lip and I suspect that you may have to do the same. Are you sure it is only on the inside?
09-04-2007, 09:30 PM
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I'm already running 5/16" spacers. I wouldnt want to go much more and then have to worry about rolling my fenders. I do not have to roll them now. The tires are still rubbing on the inside of the wheel well. I guess i might end up up having to do more BFH. does anyone think the sway bars will help any?
09-07-2007, 10:36 AM
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I'm surprised you're still rubbing man.
Get up under there and bang the hell out of it. You won't hurt anything. You may also need to take an angle grinder and shave off a little of your bumpstop. Then throw some undercoating on and it'll be good as new.
Get up under there and bang the hell out of it. You won't hurt anything. You may also need to take an angle grinder and shave off a little of your bumpstop. Then throw some undercoating on and it'll be good as new.
09-09-2007, 09:14 PM
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Also, what kind of PHR? You said adj, but is it poly/poly? Depending on the model, you may be able to insert some rod ends. Poly is stiff, but still will allow some side to side movement.
Also, what kind of tires? If they have really soft sidewalls (like drag radials) then the tire itself will be the problem.
Also, what kind of tires? If they have really soft sidewalls (like drag radials) then the tire itself will be the problem.
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09-09-2007, 09:26 PM
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MORE BFH!!! Just keep your passenger seat up normal while you do it. I had to BFH twice on my car. I used a 3lb hammer which gets the job done really quickly lol.
BTW 5/16 is huge on the rear! I have 5/16 on the front and pretty much close to running out of the center hub ring. I have 3/16 on the rear and I rub on my rear right rolled fender during autox. Oh well, I'll probably tackle that with the BFH as well
I think if its single adjustable, its poly/rod ended.
BTW 5/16 is huge on the rear! I have 5/16 on the front and pretty much close to running out of the center hub ring. I have 3/16 on the rear and I rub on my rear right rolled fender during autox. Oh well, I'll probably tackle that with the BFH as well
I think if its single adjustable, its poly/rod ended.
09-09-2007, 10:10 PM
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Its a single Adj. poly/rod ended UMI PHR. I'm running 295-35-18 BFG KDW2s. they so seem a little soft. I would never run drag radials. I drive this car every where.
I'm more concerned about cornering not straight line. Thats why this rubbing thing sucks. I'll do some more BFH I guess. Maybe the same day I install my sway bars, which I ordered. haha.
I'm more concerned about cornering not straight line. Thats why this rubbing thing sucks. I'll do some more BFH I guess. Maybe the same day I install my sway bars, which I ordered. haha.
09-11-2007, 08:46 AM
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Well there's your problem! (what movie is that from?)
You actually need more backspacing. I've got the 17x11 ZR1 replicas, with the 50mm backspace. And I run a 3/16" spacer on each one, making it about a 45 total backspace. Right in the middle of that sweet spot between 50 and 38.
A rod/rod PHR will help a lot. Just make sure they are good quality (QA1 XMR-12 or similar) and you'll get no additional road noise.
Also, yes - you're wheels may no longer sit on the hub if you get a bigger spacer. But, I've run a 3/8" spacer on my front wheels for 5 years now. About 250 autox runs and 1000 miles road racing. I use ARP studs and ensure that everything is nice and snug. Never had a single problem. ARP studs are easy to install on the rear - you don't have to remove the axles. I posted a how-to on here years ago - try a search for it. If it's not here anymore, I'll post it again.
Eventually, you're not going to be able to BFH the wheel well anymore. At the 2:00 position (passenger side; 10:00 on the driver's) there's a lovely frame reinforcement area. I guess it's possible to dent it, but I cant do it with a 5lb sledge with the car on a rack. Plus, do you really want to be bending the structural pieces of the car?
You actually need more backspacing. I've got the 17x11 ZR1 replicas, with the 50mm backspace. And I run a 3/16" spacer on each one, making it about a 45 total backspace. Right in the middle of that sweet spot between 50 and 38.
A rod/rod PHR will help a lot. Just make sure they are good quality (QA1 XMR-12 or similar) and you'll get no additional road noise.
Also, yes - you're wheels may no longer sit on the hub if you get a bigger spacer. But, I've run a 3/8" spacer on my front wheels for 5 years now. About 250 autox runs and 1000 miles road racing. I use ARP studs and ensure that everything is nice and snug. Never had a single problem. ARP studs are easy to install on the rear - you don't have to remove the axles. I posted a how-to on here years ago - try a search for it. If it's not here anymore, I'll post it again.
Eventually, you're not going to be able to BFH the wheel well anymore. At the 2:00 position (passenger side; 10:00 on the driver's) there's a lovely frame reinforcement area. I guess it's possible to dent it, but I cant do it with a 5lb sledge with the car on a rack. Plus, do you really want to be bending the structural pieces of the car?
09-11-2007, 09:58 AM
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Well it seems like any less offset would cause me to have to roll my fenders. Which I defiantely <~~~(could someone please help me out on how the hell you spell that word) don't want to do that.
09-11-2007, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelg589
Well it seems like any less offset would cause me to have to roll my fenders. Which I definitely don't want to do that.
09-11-2007, 12:41 PM
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I'm not sure you'd have to roll them. Supposedly, the TA fenders are a hair larger (wider) than the Camaro ones. I got mine to fit without rolling them.
Well, until my last autox. I was being goofy and threw the car into a sideways drift. The rear hopped over some bumps going sideways and I finally cut my sidewall. But, that was with Hoosier R6s in a 315 size, on a hot day, during a fast run. I don't think that street tires are going to generate engouh grip to make the car roll that much.
Oh, someone else here said to measure using the inside of the wheel well. Good advice. Basically, get under the car and set the rear axle on jackstands (out near the wheels, just outside the swaybar). Then, use your hand to see how much room you have on each side. I just stick it up there and guesstimate. If you've got enough room to fit the palm of your hand between the tire and the wheel well, and the fender while you're at it, then you should be fine.
Well, until my last autox. I was being goofy and threw the car into a sideways drift. The rear hopped over some bumps going sideways and I finally cut my sidewall. But, that was with Hoosier R6s in a 315 size, on a hot day, during a fast run. I don't think that street tires are going to generate engouh grip to make the car roll that much.
Oh, someone else here said to measure using the inside of the wheel well. Good advice. Basically, get under the car and set the rear axle on jackstands (out near the wheels, just outside the swaybar). Then, use your hand to see how much room you have on each side. I just stick it up there and guesstimate. If you've got enough room to fit the palm of your hand between the tire and the wheel well, and the fender while you're at it, then you should be fine.
09-11-2007, 02:28 PM
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I'm wierd and rolling my fenders doesnt appeal to me at all I guess. I really didnt want to have to do BFH either. But I was forced to. Thanks for the help guys.
