UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

Edit* see bottom
Ok, So I installed UMI's Poly/rod lower control arms(nice quality product, by the way). When I first put them on they were silent. In keeping with maintainance, I would lube them every few months or so. I eventually started to notice a gradual squeek. I tried to lube it some more and couldnt seem to fix it. Over the last few months I just seemed to get louder and louder, to the point I didnt want to drive my car.
Finally I got it over to a friends garage where I could takeit apart. Ive read posts when you just need to greese the hell out of the poly end to get rid of the squeek. I took the arm off the car and clamped the poly end in a vise and moved it around. I squeeked a little, but not like I was expecting. We cleaned it and greesed it and put it back on the car. It STILL SQUEEKED!!! I was almost heartbroken at this point.
Took the arm back off the car and tried clamping the rod end in the vise this time. I was NOT expecting this, but when rotating it back and forth in the vise it would actually resonate like a tuning fork!! Hmm...wtf right? I figured it needed more lube. I tried oil, super lube, wd-40, you name it and this vibration would not go away. Finally my friend gets the bright idea to spray brake cleaner on the rod end and blow it out with come pressed air. We tried it and the squeek started to go away! After sevel cleanings, getting all the oil out, it became silent. We put it back on the car and NO MORE LCA squeek!
Bottom line....Dont lube or grease your teflon lined rod ends, Install them dry! The poly end may not be your culprit.
EDITNEVERMIND!!! It didn't last....noise is back. Rod ended LCAs SUCK!!!!!!

MikeG

iTrader: (33)

Hmmm. That's crazy that this actually worked!

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

I cant believe this worked too!

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Yep. Those QA1's are already "self-lubricated" between bearing and race, which QA1 advises NOT to lubricate for what the OP experienced will happen.

Just my .02 cents.

Mean Green z28

iTrader: (17)

Lol ... nice find

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

If you don't mind me asking, was there a reason to change your LCA's in the first place? (e.g. drag racing, AX, or HPDE with or without daily driving). I might of missed something, however my rationale for this question is that lots of people get the mod bug and begin with some of the more popular mods mainly due to all of the hype they can generate. I'm not trying to be condescending, but even I have to admit falling into that trap.

Don't get me wrong, UMI definitely makes a great product line and Ryan has support from many of the F-body AX, HPDE, ORR, and RR. He's a close sponsor over at www.frrax.com, he consults with Sam Strano on an ordinary basis (including selling Sam's parts as well), and he worked with mitchntx by sponsoring his parts on mitch's car for some practical R&D. All of what I've mentioned have resulted in substantial positive outcomes.

My point here is that while many of these parts can be good in one application, they may not be wise to use in another. I have had rod-ended LCA's on my Camaro and they lasted quite a while, however I must admit when I changed my back and forth from my stock LCA's w/ Moog/1LE bushings installed, the stock dramatically reduced the LCA noise while not sacrificing my track times. If anything, rod-ends in LCA's (or in any of the suspension control arms) should be one of the last modifications with concerns to a street driven car. An exception would be a rod-ended PHB, where not as much noise gets transfered to the body and serves a purpose on a wide range of applications.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I agree!

Where I live, the roads are FAR from being pothole and bump free. Therefore, rod ended suspension parts, which have very little to no deflection whatsoever, transmit all the shock, impact and vibration directly to the chassis of the car. This, in turn, pulls at all of the suspension mounting points, and after an extended period of time, probably will distort the unibody structure, as well as loosen anything not glued down tightly, turning the car into an ill handling rattletrap.

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

Stock isn't really an option as that had its own problems. I have a lowered car with 315s in the rear. After rolling fenders, pounding out wheel wells and grinding bumpstops for the better part of 6 month to get rid of the rubbing, I found that the last place they made contact was on the control arms. I would LOVE to go back to stock lca's, but I couldnt take an onramp at more the 35 without them rubbing. Also, they've been ebayed. I held onto them for 6 months just in case. Of course the problem started right after I let them go. The aftermarket lcas were quiet for quiet some time.
I need to try and take a video of this sound. I agree 100% that the roads in VA SUCK! But this isnt a going over a pot hole clank, the sounds of which would be louder than my lca anyway. Its a kind of pop every time the rod end rotates even the slightest around its pivot.

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

Let me add, That I agree with you about Ryan at UMI. Their stuff is of great quality, and I've purchased from him several times before and will buy again from UMI in the future. This is in NO WAY meant to be a UMI bash or anything. I am completely open to the idea that I f-d something up. UMI is top quality!

ElChiefWS602

iTrader: (1)

I have the same arms on my car. The rod ends got a little corrsoion on then and made them creak and squeak all over. I picked up some Jigaloo from Walmart and sprayed it on the rod ends and wiped them down. This cleaned them up and completely eleimnated the squeak. Jigaloo is a dry film lubricant. About $7 a can.

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

Jigaloo huh? Never heard of it, but at this point if you told me to put strawberry jam on the rod ends I would try it. Thanks for the tip! Ill give it a shot.

ElChiefWS602

iTrader: (1)

Here ya go.


http://www.jigaloo.com/us/e_home.php

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Really, you can try to use more of the lubricants but depending on age and how much of what you used on your rod-end, you actually might of disintegrated most of the self-lubricating liner. If this is the case, look into getting some new rod-ends. I know it's painful to spend that much but that may be your only solution and if you do, refrain from putting extra lubricant over them. if you must clean them, try to do by wiping most of the dirt and debris off with a clean, dry rag.

EDIT: If you do look into getting some new QA1 rod-ends, you may want to look into some sort of dust/debris protectors (e.g. seals-it or something likewise). Also, with the brake cleaner, I'm not too sure of the chemical composition offhand, but knowing it's supposed to "degrease and dry", I would be very cautious about getting them near exposed bearing joints. In the case of QA1's, they might of reacted with the some of the teflon/kevlar structures in the lining and probably caused them to disintegrate.

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

I've had good results with synthetic brake caliper grease. It won't wash out like most soap based greases. Make sure the mounting bolts are torqued fully.

Vernon

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

Ok, well, I got a good price on a set of new rod ends from UMI and swapped them out. It's been about a 2 weeks and havent heard a sound. So I guess I messed the old ones up some how or they wore out or whatever. I think with these new ones Im not going to lubricate them at all, if they dont make any noise.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

OMG,, im gonna go try this. my lcas keep clunking/popping. never thought it would be the rod end and not the poly.

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

Yeah....it's been about 2 months since I swapped the rod ends and the noise is still gone. So, Im pretty sure that was the fix.

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

Remember, rod ends don't last forever. Typically every 2-3 years is a good increment to replace them on a street car. I'm not sure how long you had them for but just an FYI.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

had mine for about 6 months now, I stopped and bought some graphite dry lube from a-zone last night, seemed to work some. im gonna drive the car tonight and see how it does