sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Looking at the Lincoln units right now as I've heard they are decent. The 140c and the 180c (but can you run the 220v units on 110v do they switch to regular when you dont have access to 220?)

And outside of the lincoln line I'de like to hear what else is out there. I see lots of used welders for sale but stay away from them just because I dont know what they are and the 180c seems like the cheapest mainstream 220v welder. I plan to build a few things that are a little thicker metal, like a push bar for my gfs suv with .120 wall tubing with 1/4" steel mounting tabs.

Might do a roll bar with it and SFCs using it to modify a shift handle... thats about the thickest things I could think of using it for. Most other things will be simple bracket, sheetmetal, exhaust.

Looking to buy something used probably for under 500$ I am guessing I need 220v but I am used to working with less than perfect tools for the job and right now my garage is only equipped for 110v.

Never welded in my life. Just jumping into it because with the custom nature of this ls1 rx7 I can think of probably 20 things I could address on it right away without even really trying and I see more uses for it in the future.

Let me know guys
Thanks

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I currently have the Lincoln 135 110V model. I bought it so I could use it anywhere. I will be investing in a permanent home 220v machine soon. But until then, it has done everything I need it too. I have run flux wire in it since owning it and have never "needed" more then it could give.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

the hobart handler 140 seems really popular too. Any feedback on what I've suggested so far or have other opinions.

Deff want to stick with something that can do gas.

I dont know if I'll have acess to 220 most of the time now that I think of it. Will the good 110v machine really do 1/4" steel without doing flux.

jman54002

iTrader: (11)

yea it will, but you will need some time behide it to do it well. The problem with 110 units is that when you crank them up they trip breakers. Plus if you use a extension cord it is worst. A hobart 140 works real well and is a nice start out unit. 220 volt is ideal and has much more power. But you will be fine with the 110 unit just practise. Good luck and have fun...you can't live with out a welder.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Just found out the Lincoln Electric 140c and 180c (the c indicates that its infinitly variable) vs the other units which to me seems like a huge advantage

mknight759

iTrader: (8)

I have a nice bluepoint/snap on in the sales section check it out

https://ls1tech.com/forums/non-lsx-p...ap-welder.html

LS1BLKSS

iTrader: (36)

im in the same boat as op, im gonna start a turbo build and theres a **** load needing to be weld... let me know which one you got... gonna ask this for x-mas lol

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I've been told by many people to stick with the 3 major companies. Miller, hobart and LE.

I am just sticking to those unless someone really has a good experience with something else or another unit is much cheaper and similarly good

74ta

I started out with a cheap craftsman 110v. mig. It said you could weld 3/16 single pass,good luck with that,and tripped breakers all the time. Last christmas tractor supply company had a sale on hobart welders and you could use your tsc card and get 12 months no payments/no interest.I was having trouble deciding between the handler 210 and 187.I went to small before so I went with the handler 210.WOW You cannot believe the difference between the 110v and 220v welders,it weld's great and is very easy to learn on. 110v. welders are fine for sheetmetal but that's it in my opinion. Wire your shop for 220 and buy the last welder you will ever need,it's much cheaper that way. good luck

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My Lincoln tripped breakers too but only on the highest setting. I made a dedicated breaker just for it with thick wire and a specific outlet. I use the outlet for other stuff too but i know this is my outlet for running the welder WOT.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

All these 110v units it looks like use 20 amps. I am pretty sure one of my curcuits out in the garage has a 20amp breaker on it.

For those tripping the breaker how many amps are the circuits that you guys are running these on? I need to make sure this is a machine issue not a user issue.

99MUSTANG5.3L

The key is to tell your electrician you need a recepticle for a welder! I have a LE 135sp(?) running on 110V and have welded 1/4" plate without tripping breakers,but I am an electrician and wired my shop correctly. Also, get the the gas for it,I know you can do well w/fluxcore, but the gas is soooooo much cleaner!!! Well worth the extra investment. Just my .02.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My Lincoln can trip a 20 amp after about 10 seconds on the highest setting. I wired mine for 30 amp. Never blown it.

Green69firebird

I use a handler 130 at work FCAW, I would never buy one my self. We've had trouble getting it to feed smoothly and the voltage adjustment leaves a lot to be desired. As far and LE vs Miller both are good machines but I've heard LE's customer service is not as good.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

So heres what I got going through my mind after hearing the feedback, and I REALLY appreciate it guys. This is the type of real world feedback I was trying to get to cover my inexperience on the subject and make the right purchase the first time.

I'm leaning towards the smaller 110v units like a handler 140, or a Lincoln Elecric 140P or 140C depending on if I can get the 140C with the continuously adjustable settings for a decent price.

Whats up in the air is it seems like I wont be able to wel 1/4" plate without rewiring my garage no matter which way I go. It sounds like even if I have a 20amp breaker I'll still pop it when I turn up my little 110v welder (which may technically be able to do it but my circuits cant handle it) I'll prob still have to rewire the garage, then I'll prob need to groove the edges or heat it up.. a pain in the *** but I wont be doing 1/4" much. Honestly the only time I can think of that I'll have to use it for that thickness is the shift handle and the mounting tabs for the bumper I'm planning on building for my GFs SUV.

But I can do sheet metal with it and bring it other places and prob run it off most outlets as long as I'm doing tacks or sheet metal.

The 220V is obviously more expensive but I have to rewire the garage and whether its portable or not doesnt matter because I dont know anyone with 220v in their garage so its never gonna be able to go anywhere. Once I set it up though I'll be able to weld anything I need.

I think the price and portability and the fact that I only plan to weld thicker materials a few times is making me lean towards the smaller unit. If I really need to weld something with the smaller unit like I said I should still be able to get it done by grooving and/or heating and although thats a PITA for the ammount of time that I'm working with that thickness of material, it should be fine.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have welded lots of 1/4 with my lincoln. I don't run gas as gas cools the weld thereby reducing your max thickness single pass weld. Keep in mind, you aren't doing code welding, if you have the proper technique, the welds will be more then sufficient. When I worked as a welder, max penetration, perfect prep, and great joint design was mandatory. But, at home in the garage its really not that crucial.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Also. Running you one single 30 amp circuit to run your 110 unit wide open is simple also. I had never done anything with house electricity before but I was able to do this twice at my old house and new house. Its the only way to go as they are power hungry at WOT.

Green69firebird

Well, not exactly. You can weld 1/4" with a 110v welder, but not in a single pass. (at least not with the ones I've used) Heck you can weld 1" plate with one given enough time/passes.

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

I bought the Clarke 130 EN. It's the same as the craftsman 125. 110v MIG.

I've built a twin turbo kit for my GTO, made brackets, exhaust and misc sheet metal stuff. This welder has more than paid for itself however, I should have taken the advice from the people who have been down this road. They are NOthing like a quality 220 unit. I am pretty freaking good with my little welder and it still impossible to lay a bead like a real welder will. If I could do it all over again I would without a doubt spend the extra coin on a big machine. I would even buy the Harbor Freight TIG welder for 200 bucks before I'd buy another 110v MIG.

Check out your local craigslist for a good used unit. There are also people like me that are selling their crap to get a real machine.

tennerv8

iTrader: (7)

I have a Hobart Handler 140. It has worked flawlessly since buying it in 2005.