Miller 140, 110VAC welder, Light Body Work
#1
Miller 140, 110VAC welder, Light Body Work
I'm looking at picking up a new welder and wondered if the Miller 140, (110 volt) will do the trick. It will be used for body sheet metal welding and light weight metal fab, (brackets for mounting A/C under dash, seat brackets, etc.). It comes with .024 wire and can be equipped with .030 for the heavy stuff. I have no allusions of welding up the Bay Bridge with it, just some light body type work.
Is anyone using one of these and if so how do they work.
I could upgrade to a 180 if the 140 won't do the job.
LXS
Is anyone using one of these and if so how do they work.
I could upgrade to a 180 if the 140 won't do the job.
LXS
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For sheet metal you won't use but a fraction of the
rated current. But you might want to weld 1/4" or
3/8" steel someday (though here I'd still prefer stick).
The .024 wire capability is nice but don't know how
available that gauge is. Still in my experience the
thinner the better (low skill level, lot of blow-through).
Going to .030 from .035 made me a much better (still
crappy) panel welder. You can still weld thicker stuff
by multiple passes, if it comes to that. But a pawn
shop buzz box has its place in the shop for quick,
thick & dirty.
rated current. But you might want to weld 1/4" or
3/8" steel someday (though here I'd still prefer stick).
The .024 wire capability is nice but don't know how
available that gauge is. Still in my experience the
thinner the better (low skill level, lot of blow-through).
Going to .030 from .035 made me a much better (still
crappy) panel welder. You can still weld thicker stuff
by multiple passes, if it comes to that. But a pawn
shop buzz box has its place in the shop for quick,
thick & dirty.
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No, a 180 is better for thicker metal.
Don't make the mistake of getting a 120V welder if you have 220V available. I will say that I made that mistake! I bought a crappy little Campbell-Hausfeld welder that is slightly better than a hot glue gun. I've welded parts with it that "looked" fine, only to inspect them and note that they would have failed (and then they got ground off and redone with a larger welder).
It's much easier to get a bigger welder to weld thinner stuff, than it is for a smaller welder to weld bigger stuff.
Don't make the mistake of getting a 120V welder if you have 220V available. I will say that I made that mistake! I bought a crappy little Campbell-Hausfeld welder that is slightly better than a hot glue gun. I've welded parts with it that "looked" fine, only to inspect them and note that they would have failed (and then they got ground off and redone with a larger welder).
It's much easier to get a bigger welder to weld thinner stuff, than it is for a smaller welder to weld bigger stuff.
#6
I agree, if you go with the 180 unit you will be much happier. Most of the bigger welders have more fine adjustment to them too, so you can make a better weld. Its easier to turn a welding machine down then to max out the little machine and hope you get enough penetration.
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#13
it should be the ticket for you.. and have enough **** to do the bigger stuff.. its rated to 3/8 but if you know what you're doing with different passes and prep it could do bigger from what i understand from the autobody boards i frequent
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if you can come up with the extra funds, the 180 is one sweet machine! i used one with the optional spool gun on a set of valve covers. there are a ton of adjustments that come with this machine. the average person will never have to upgrade.
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The 252 is indeed bad ***. Too bad I'm not. It's far more welder than I need, but... it's so nice having something that can do serious welding. I've done 3/8" plate with it so far... I don't have anything thicker. I love all the built in timer adjustments. Pre/post flow, stitch timer, burnback, lead-in ramp speed, etc. I bought it used and looking a little rough, but it cleaned up nicely and looks good now. Maybe one day I'll get the spoolgun for aluminum... but then again, those Miller 30A spoolguns cost almost as much as a decent used TIG machine.
#17
I have a 252 with a Profax 25' gun & 25' ground. I can go all the way across my 30x30 shop with it.
The 252 is indeed bad ***. Too bad I'm not. It's far more welder than I need, but... it's so nice having something that can do serious welding. I've done 3/8" plate with it so far... I don't have anything thicker. I love all the built in timer adjustments. Pre/post flow, stitch timer, burnback, lead-in ramp speed, etc. I bought it used and looking a little rough, but it cleaned up nicely and looks good now. Maybe one day I'll get the spoolgun for aluminum... but then again, those Miller 30A spoolguns cost almost as much as a decent used TIG machine.
The 252 is indeed bad ***. Too bad I'm not. It's far more welder than I need, but... it's so nice having something that can do serious welding. I've done 3/8" plate with it so far... I don't have anything thicker. I love all the built in timer adjustments. Pre/post flow, stitch timer, burnback, lead-in ramp speed, etc. I bought it used and looking a little rough, but it cleaned up nicely and looks good now. Maybe one day I'll get the spoolgun for aluminum... but then again, those Miller 30A spoolguns cost almost as much as a decent used TIG machine.
That is a nice mig machine, but if you cant weld up to its capabilities then that is better than not having enough settings. Have you ever run a spool gun? I have and I dont know how to say it other than holy hot splatter *****. It will weld decent once you get used to running it, but the big aluminum splatter ***** coming off of it will burn the hell out of you. To weld aluminum I would look at an econotig or a used tig machine with ac current and high frequency. One that has a balance adjustment is better, but it is not needed.
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Nope, never used a spoolgun. Honestly, unless I found one stinkin' cheap, I probably wouldn't bother. TIG has more appeal to me than that much money in another gun. With TIG, I can dial it down and do really thin stuff. Don't see that happening with a spool gun (from what I understand, it's for big fast hot passes on fairly solid aluminum - probably 1/8" and thicker).
#19
You are correct on all of that. I wouldn't try to weld anything thinner than 1/8" with a spool gun. Plus with the tig machine will allow you to make some really trick parts with really good looking welds on carbon and stainless steel.