8 second capable 99 Camaro SS - FS or trade + cash. Chicago
03-03-2010, 05:59 PM
#1
8 second capable 99 Camaro SS - FS or trade + cash. Chicago Year: 1999
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Camaro
Price: $27500
Mileage: 76000
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): IL
Color: Red
Transmission: Automatic
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive
LS Engine?: Car has LS engine
Tittle in hand, I have owned this vehicle for about 6 years. As it sits right now, its a turn key car.
1999 Camaro SS
Dynoed 812 and 900 torque on a conservative Mustang dyno. Would of been a lot more if on a different dyno, and deffinantly a lot more in a drivetrain that didn't rob as much power. Its not a dyno queen.
As much as I love this car I feel I have went a bit overboard with it. Its kind of an addiction and I have to stop at some point. It has been a real fun, and expensive build.
What started out as a heads/cam car has turned into a 8 second capable street car. A bit too much if you ask me. The car is a blast to drive, but I want to take a break from drag racing. This car is LOUD..a real head turner. I had them install the Vortech Mondo bypass valve right after the blower(where it should be so the air doesn't heat up the intercooler) and thus making it loud. You can hear that very distinctive Procharger sound from blocks away, and thats when the car is just idling..
There is less than 1000 miles on almost everything, including the motor, trans, rear end probably has less than 500 miles on it, and so does the converter. Here is some info on the rest of the car:
Body has around 76K on it. The body overall is in good condition. I will probably give it a real nice buff and wax sometime soon. Both bumpers and the new VFN 3" SS hood were just painted a few weeks ago..Cost almost $2000 for that paint job alone..Didn't go cheap on that..nothing has been cheap on this car lol.
LS2 402. about 10:1 compression(Motor was built for boost, and please dont tell me 10:1 is too high for a boosted setup. Its all in the setup and tune
)Rossler reverse manual TH400 with trans brake and aluminum drum. TCI aluminum deep pan.
Neal Chance Racing converter with billet stator, around 4500-5000 rpm stall
Aluminum flexplate from Reactor.
Midwest 9" rear end, with Strange Aluminum Center section. 3.50 gear. Chromemoly torque arm, the long design that is designed for higher hp cars. 35 spline Strange axles, and a spool.
Strange double adjustuble coil overs all around. Strange springs in the front.
UMI K-member, panhard bar, rear controll arms, subframe connectors .
Spohn Chromemoly A-Arms.
BigStuff3 computer tuned by Larry at ASSC. Have two tunes. One for pump gus and methanol, and one for pump gas and methanol with a splash of race gas. The splash of race gas gave it an extra 30rwhp if I recall.
I have multiple dyno sheets. I can even give to the buyer the 55 galon drum of methanol, which is probably 75% full.
A little more detailed info on the motor:
LS2 402
Callies 4" forged crank and rods. ARP 2000 rod bolts. Diamond pistons. Katech billet main caps, pinned. ARP main studs. Motor was built to with stand at least 1200 flywheel hp, and it has been keeping up just fine. Motor has under 1000 miles on it. Does not burn oil, no knocking or ticking. GM 5 layer MLS head gaskets were used and they do not leak one bit.
ETP 245 heads, with Crower Custom rocker arms. Rocker arms where over $1000. Smith Brothers push rods, and Morel lifters. ARP L19 head studs torqued to 115 ft lbs. ($500 head studs). PSI 1225 ML valve springs with titanium retainers and locks($900+ valve springs that have gone through a process that makes them last extra long)
Comp Cams cam was specked out to my setup by Slowhawk Performance(sponsor on here). Its around a 242/248. Has a nice rumble to it, idles at 900-1000 rpms. Could be lowered if desired via BS3, it just tends to be lopier then.
Intake setup is a fully ported and polished JR Vic carb style manifold. Pics of it below. Extreme Velocity carb hat, with Accufab 4bbl TB.
Intercooler setup was done for me at S&S Chassis. They work on 7 and 8 second race cars all the time..it shows because this intercooler setup is no joke. Big air to air core was purchased from Procharger, then they welded the end caps, tubing, etc. All intercooler piping is 4" aluminum. Total intcooler + piping cost to me was $2400 with receipts to prove.
Supercharger is freshly rebuilt Procharger F1C. Blower is almost completely brand new. They replaced everything except the outer casing. It only had about 500 miles on it brand new, and had a catastrophic failure first time at the track. It never happens to these things, normally Procharger blowers are VERY liable and last a long time, even when over spun. It is not being overspun in this setup, so it should last.
Its being used with a SDCE setup, which has the blower maxed out at 18.5psi or so. NO belt slip whatsoever with this setup.
Radiator is a Griffin and has been stood up straight, with Spal fans setup as pullers. Coolant temp stays good even on hot summer days. Trans temps stay cool as well with a large B&M trans cooler with a Spal fan on it as well.
Fuel system is completely done as well. Nasty fuel tank, Magnafuel 4003 fuel pump, Magnafuel boost referanced fuel pressure regulator, -10 feed lines, -8 return lines. Even have a inline heat sink type of deal so it cools the fuel.
83lbs Precision injectors are installed. They were cleaned and flow matched to proper spec by RC during the summer.
Exhaust - American Racing 2" Headers. ARH y-pipe with their real nice merge collector, to a 4" Magnaflow muffler dumped before the axle, using a 4" Borla tip. sounds real nice and not raspy. Also had the headers ceramic headers to make sure they keep the heat in as well as look good. Pics below. Entire exhaust setup was well over $2400.
Alky Control Methanol injection with dual nozzles. The best methanol injection kit in the market in my opinion, with a bunch of safety features on it. I have NEVER had a problem with it, and the owner has the best customer service if you have any questions on it. It is set to turn on at about 4psi of boost.
Car has a GZ Motorsports Vacuum setup. Works real well.
Line Lock is installed on vehicle to help with burnouts at the track.
Has a Mezeires electric water pump with a 160 thermostat
Interior is in good shape as well. I upgraded the leather on the seats a few years ago to a better leather at a upholstery shop. Had them stitch in the Chevy logo on all the headrest areas as well.
Loyd Custom SS flour mats. I still have the stock carpet installed as I didn't want the interior to get too loud.
Car has a chromemoly 6 point cage that was professionally installed/tig welded/painted.
Car still has heat and radio! Yes you can hear the music over the loud blower/exhaust.
Using Alpine head unit, CDT speakers in the doors and sail panels, powered by the Monsoon Amplifier. Sounds suprisingly good. Same setup is used by many other F-body's on here.
Car will come with SLP original 17x9" chrome ZR1 rims in the front, and aftermarket 17x11" chrome ZR1's in the back. Currently using Hoosier 335 drag radials in the back, but if you feel its too big of a tire you can also use a 315, 325, etc. The 335's fit fine, do not rub anywhere. The front tires are ZR rated, and have 75% tread left. The back tires are currently bald, but I have a brand new set waiting to go on.
A few other things to mention. ATI balancer is used, and crank is double keywayed. Using a custom ARP bolt that is torqued to 240lbs.
Almost every part used on this build was purchased brand new. I don't really like buying used parts. If you check my sellers feedback on here, 99% of it is probably from me selling , not buying parts.
I have receipts from a lot of the items, but can probably track down everything through credit cards if a potential buyer realy wants to see them.
This car passes emissions testing, without a breeze. Normally with BS3 cars the stock PCM is pulled off, and then the stock dashboard gauges stop working, the car cant go through emissions because the stock PCM isn't there..but Speed Inc makes a $600 harness that I used on this build to retain the stock PCM. That means the stock gauges still work, everything on the dashboard is functional, and the car passes OBD2 plug in emission testing, the same way a bone stock Honda would.
I have the Illinois Emission testing pass sheet from a few months ago. Last edited by Jimmy P; 03-12-2010 at 04:50 PM.
03-03-2010, 06:00 PM
#2
Continued.
The car has only been touched by reputable shops, and it has been built right. I say 8 second capable, because I know the car should do that with this type of power and a experienced driver. I would of had some track results with it but had the blower failure, which is supposed to be very rare.
I should note I have never street raced this car, and it has rarely been to the track other than that one time when the blower broke on me...No one really knows the car or its potential , so if you are into that type of thing it can be a real good street racing money maker.
If I am forgetting something about the build, please feel free to ask.
And also, please only serious buyers post on here. I would like the thread not to get cluttered.
Before the hood got painted. Car was dusty in that pic too.
Engine bay may look a little dirty in these pics, but thats because we were hurrying to get it ready before summer was over. I will have it spotless by the time its ready to sell.
Before installing the 3" VFN SS hood.
The coated American Racing 2" headers before they were installed on the car.
At the chassy shop as they were doing my intercooler..This is no Ebay intercooler lol.
This is the cheap front mount intercooler that I previously had with the D1SC. Look at the difference from this and my current intercooler.
A couple of interior pics that were taken a few months ago. Interior is normally not this messy, will be spotless when its time to sell.
Boost gauge, digital fuel pressure, trans temp, and oil temp.
some shots of the cage. The seats where only removed to put the carpet back in, they are currently in the car.
Normaly these wires and the BS3 pcm are not exposed like this. There is the stock panel that goes over them. You can't even tell there is a computer stuffed in there.
After the front core support was moddified to stand the radiator up. It was painted as well.
Ported carb style manifold. Over 20 hours of porting when into this.
This picture was before the cage, but it shows the Chevy symbol embroided into the seats.
The car has only been touched by reputable shops, and it has been built right. I say 8 second capable, because I know the car should do that with this type of power and a experienced driver. I would of had some track results with it but had the blower failure, which is supposed to be very rare.
I should note I have never street raced this car, and it has rarely been to the track other than that one time when the blower broke on me...No one really knows the car or its potential , so if you are into that type of thing it can be a real good street racing money maker.
If I am forgetting something about the build, please feel free to ask.
And also, please only serious buyers post on here. I would like the thread not to get cluttered.
Before the hood got painted. Car was dusty in that pic too.
Engine bay may look a little dirty in these pics, but thats because we were hurrying to get it ready before summer was over. I will have it spotless by the time its ready to sell.
Before installing the 3" VFN SS hood.
The coated American Racing 2" headers before they were installed on the car.
At the chassy shop as they were doing my intercooler..This is no Ebay intercooler lol.
This is the cheap front mount intercooler that I previously had with the D1SC. Look at the difference from this and my current intercooler.
A couple of interior pics that were taken a few months ago. Interior is normally not this messy, will be spotless when its time to sell.
Boost gauge, digital fuel pressure, trans temp, and oil temp.
some shots of the cage. The seats where only removed to put the carpet back in, they are currently in the car.
Normaly these wires and the BS3 pcm are not exposed like this. There is the stock panel that goes over them. You can't even tell there is a computer stuffed in there.
After the front core support was moddified to stand the radiator up. It was painted as well.
Ported carb style manifold. Over 20 hours of porting when into this.
This picture was before the cage, but it shows the Chevy symbol embroided into the seats.
Last edited by Jimmy P; 03-03-2010 at 06:11 PM.
03-05-2010, 01:40 PM
#7
are you only looking to trade for a vette? have a nicely modded 98 trans am
Thanks for the kind words guys.
Last edited by Jimmy P; 03-05-2010 at 04:40 PM.
Trending Topics
03-11-2010, 04:34 PM
#11
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, its definitely got some swagger no doubt. What is the cert on the cage? Is there a tune for 93 oct? Dont know if I would drive it a whole lot street wise, eventually with this kind of power, its going to break things. Trade wise, you say no drag cars, can you be more specific. Nice car non the less, is it complete and ready to eat?
03-11-2010, 04:42 PM
#12
Cage has not been certified yet, but I see no reason why it wouldn't pass. All tunes were done on pump gas. First tune is pump gas + methanol injection, which I believe it made about 30rwhp less than 812rwhp.
Then with a splash of race gas mixed in, on that tune it made the 812rwhp. Tuner said he can make alot more power if we used just 100% race gas, but I didn't want to pay for more tuning/dyno time, I was more than happy with the current results, especially for being only 18.5lbs of boost.
What I mean by no drag cars, is no extreme cars, such as this one. I need something a little more practical. As it sits car is good to go, except the head unit needs to be installed. It is currently at Procharger getting rebuilt. It should be in any day now, and it will take us a couple of hours to install it, no biggy.
Then with a splash of race gas mixed in, on that tune it made the 812rwhp. Tuner said he can make alot more power if we used just 100% race gas, but I didn't want to pay for more tuning/dyno time, I was more than happy with the current results, especially for being only 18.5lbs of boost.
What I mean by no drag cars, is no extreme cars, such as this one. I need something a little more practical. As it sits car is good to go, except the head unit needs to be installed. It is currently at Procharger getting rebuilt. It should be in any day now, and it will take us a couple of hours to install it, no biggy.
03-11-2010, 06:32 PM
#13
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Understood, thanks. If I owned that, I would tune it for more power, change tire combo and shoot for some 8 sec slips, or faster in street outlaw, where Run now with my car. I am the only 6 in the series, so there are alot of fast cars from high 7's to mid 8's. I could go faster in Fear if I wanted to turn it up, but 8.30-8.50's is good enough and I dont have to worry about breaking stuff.
03-13-2010, 09:29 PM
#16
Yup I am pretty sure a 6 point roll bar is good till 10.0, per the NHRA rules. I didn't want to go with a 8 point cage as its a street car and didn't want those bars passing by my head..Although someone can add those two extra points for not that much money if they wanted to.
03-14-2010, 08:50 PM
#20
Its not bad at all..Its 10:1 compression so it feels like stock when your just cruising..Once you get on boost its a whole different story..
Driving with a spool in the rear end isn't bad at all. The only times I notice it is when taking a turn at a real slow speed, such as in a parking lot.
Driving with a spool in the rear end isn't bad at all. The only times I notice it is when taking a turn at a real slow speed, such as in a parking lot.