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A little different 93 LS1 RX7 T56

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Old 09-13-2010, 09:10 PM
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Default A little different 93 LS1 RX7 T56

Year: 1993
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7
Price: $17000
Mileage: 110000
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): MD
Color: Red
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive
LS Engine?: Car has LS engine

EDIT:****SOLD****

For sale is my LS1/T56 swapped 93 Mazda RX7. Car is a red base model with no sunroof and black interior. Chassis has about 110k miles, engine/trans about 65k miles. Car has working power steering and air conditioning using R134a refrigerant. Swap hardware is Granny’s hood mod kit so no bump steer correction necessary (stock rack/tie rods). Car is complete and runs great; I have put about 7k miles on the swap over the past couple years with no problems. Engine is all stock with F-body exhaust manifolds.

I could write a novel on this car, but I’ll try my best to keep it brief. I’ve owned the car since 2003, third owner, and drove the car for about 3 years with the rotary. I spent three years building the car. Since I started the swap I’ve had two girls and my priorities have changed. Not to mention I rarely get chance to drive it and therefore have decided to part ways with it.

This isn’t a typical swap. Swap was done from a whole 2001 Camaro parts car. I basically took the best of the two cars to make one. This car uses the Camaro body control module (for keyless entry/alarm functions), 4 channel ABS/traction control, plastic fuel tank/internally regulated fuel pump, and instrument cluster. Advantages described below.

4 channel ABS/traction control: Car uses the Bosch 5.3 ABS from the F-body. The ABS on the RX7 is an older three channel system and was starting to leak. The 4 channel ABS can work the rear wheels independently and is also necessary for the traction control. I drove the car with the FD ABS disabled and the front brakes would lock up almost instantly so maintaining ABS for me was a necessity. Not to mention the F-Body pump units are plentiful and can be found cheap. Traction control works well and uses three methods of power reduction when slip is sensed: ignition timing is pulled, if this doesn’t work the throttle starts closing, and finally if those didn’t work it will apply brake force to the slipping wheel/wheels. It can be turned off by a button press, but I can count on one hand the number of times I turned it off. I have found as long as you work with it, it works very well and will still allow the rear to get a little loose. This required all new brake tubing including an extra line run to the rear axle. All the stock brake hoses were retained as well as the Mazda ABS wheel sensors.

F-body gas tank: This replaces the steel FD steel tank, is plastic and will not rust. Most importantly this allowed me to run a dual outlet exhaust to both sides of the car, which is essentially impossible with a stock FD tank. This permitted me to modify and use the SLP dual-dual Loudmouth stainless steel catback that came on the parts car. The F-body tank also uses an internally regulated fuel pump so you don’t need the vette external regulated fuel filter. The F-body EVAP system is also used and fully functional. This required the FD spare tire well to be removed, so there is no place to put a spare (but FD spare tire and jack is included).

F-body body control module: The PO put in a junky alarm installed by a shop of high school flunkies from the appearance of their handywork. I pulled all remnants of the old equipment out and replaced it with the camaro’s keyless entry. So the F-body remote is used which includes a trunk release button, I added a solenoid in the trunk so that this function would work (I thought it’d be cheesy to have a button that didn’t work). The dome lights, keyless and alarm functions work just like in an F-body.

F-body instrument cluster: Running the F-body gas tank and ABS sort of made this a necessity, for gauges and indication lights. I did not use the camaro cluster because I preferred the firebird cluster with amber lights so I installed a firebird cluster instead. This eliminates the need for the Dakota Digital speedo correction box, and the speedometer can be adjusted for different tire diameter/gears by a program like HP Tuners. The FD cluster hood was reworked with abs plastic, not fiberglass as I was concerned about fiberglass cracking and separating in the future. All the gauges and warning/indicator lights work just as they would in an F-body. Since I knew I had to rework the instrument cluster I was able to move the steering column up about 1 inch to make more room for my knees (I’m 6’2” tall and the stock FD steering wheel location barely gave my fingers enough room to clear my knees when turning the wheel, now there is plenty of space).

The car has:
18x8.5 front rims with 235/40/18 Azenis tires
18x9.5 rear rims with 275/35/18 Azenis tires
Front and rear Powerslot rotors with EBC green pads
Rebuilt front calipers
Eibach Pro springs with stock shocks
Hurst billet shifter
Dual Magnaflow 2.5 inch catalytic convertors
Modified F-body SLP Loudmouth dual-dual SS Catback
Flowmaster dual 2.5 to 3 inch collector
Stock mounted high capacity aluminum radiator
Siebon “Scoot style” carbon hood
Aluminum Mazda Accessory door sills
New carpet
Leatherseats.com ultrasuede recovered seats
Pioneer cd player with Sony 4 channel amp
Kenwood 6.5 in component speakers in front
Kenwood 6x9 speakers in boxes in trunk
All new rear pillow ball joints
All suspension bushings replaced
Prothane transmission mount
Power steering fluid cooler

All electrical splices were soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing. Wire runs were consolidated and taped/wire loomed as appropriate. Stock FD circuits and relays were used wherever possible. I was not comfortable using bump steer correction which is why I ran Granny’s hood mod kit. This allowed me to run a stock FD located radiator/fans and gave me enough room to put the battery under the hood; as I did not want the battery anywhere in the passenger compartment. Another advantage to this setup is that the F-body LS1 oil pan has more road clearance, and the sway bar is still the lowest part in the front end so the radiator also has better protection. To me, these advantages by far outweighed not being able to run a stock hood. The hood issue was easily solved by running the Seibon “Scoot style” carbon hood. The paint is showing its age and could use a fresh coat soon, it still has a decent shine when polished and waxed. The body has the usual dings for its age.

The interior was originally tan which I converted to black. I replaced the carpet and seat covers. The door panels and headliner were dyed, and the kick panels, rear sail panels and rear bins were painted black. The seatbelts, sunvisors, visor hardware, dome light were replaced with brand new mazda parts.

I get a headache whenever I think about the amount of time I spent researching/building this car, so my brain is toast now. Car is located near Frederick Maryland, asking $17,000. Any questions feel free to ask.
















Last edited by byrden; 10-01-2010 at 02:28 PM. Reason: Sold Car
Old 09-13-2010, 09:26 PM
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That is one clean RX7, good luck with the sale! BTW bottom two pictures arn't showing up, I'm guessing they were the engine shots.
Old 09-13-2010, 10:06 PM
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That's one of the cleanest RX7s I've seen. Amazing car.
Old 09-14-2010, 01:28 PM
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Would you be at home on friday? I live in waldorf and am a bit less then 2 hours from you and would like to test drive it. I have off on fridays so just let me know what time would be good for you. Thanks in advance, Jonathan. PS my current car is a 93 rx7 stock touring, would you be interested in a trade plus cash?
Old 09-14-2010, 02:55 PM
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would you be interested in a str8 trade for a fully built but perfectly streetable including ac/heat 98 h/c/ nitrous z28? It has a 6spd and built 9 in. Your car looks amazing. BTW I haul 2 kids around in the back of the z28 so that could be a plus for having a fast family car
Old 09-14-2010, 03:55 PM
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To the top for a amazing car.
Old 09-14-2010, 09:25 PM
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Thanks for the positive comments.

I appreciate the trade offers, but I'm not particularly interested in trades.
Old 09-20-2010, 11:15 PM
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I know your not interested in trades but my friend wanted me to ask anyways.. He wanted to trade you his 93 toyota supra with 75k on it and 2 10's in the back in a custom built box, dropped an inch and 18 inch rims. n/a auto
Old 09-21-2010, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 93lt1a4z28
I know your not interested in trades but my friend wanted me to ask anyways.. He wanted to trade you his 93 toyota supra with 75k on it and 2 10's in the back in a custom built box, dropped an inch and 18 inch rims. n/a auto
No harm in asking.

Thanks for the offer, but no. I'm not interested in another sports car right now.
Old 09-21-2010, 06:43 AM
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beautiful car man, I just sold my 93 fd (still rotary though).
One of the cleanest ls swaps I've ever seen.
Old 09-21-2010, 09:41 PM
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Wow!

Perfect planning and flawless execution. It could certainly pass as a factory install. I can imagine the tremendous amount of satisfaction you must have felt when you acheived each milestone.

My only wish is that the market price on these conversions wasn't so high -- that way it could be sitting in my driveway . GLWS!
Old 09-22-2010, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by byrden
No harm in asking.

Thanks for the offer, but no. I'm not interested in another sports car right now.
lol.. well o well.. your car looks sicks tho lol
Old 09-23-2010, 10:45 PM
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Sale Pending.... Flight booked.
Old 10-01-2010, 02:26 PM
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Car is SOLD.



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