Anybody have a shop install their 17x11.....any suggestions?
#1
Anybody have a shop install their 17x11.....any suggestions?
Anybody have a shop install their 17x11 wheels?
Are there any special ways to mount them. I heard to jack the rear up by the the axle housing, the wheels will go on easier that way. I was going to have my wheels sent to a shop to get the tires put on them,...and I figured they could install them on the car as well.
Any suggestions or tips,....anything I should mention to the shop?
Are there any special ways to mount them. I heard to jack the rear up by the the axle housing, the wheels will go on easier that way. I was going to have my wheels sent to a shop to get the tires put on them,...and I figured they could install them on the car as well.
Any suggestions or tips,....anything I should mention to the shop?
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Jacking it up by the rear end is the only way you will get them on, otherwise the tire will hit the bumpstop assembly and you won't be able to mount them.
And yeah, you can drive it eventhough they will most likely rub...the rubbing's a good thing though, it will show you where you will have to do the massaging with the BFH.
I took my bumpstops out and trimmed the mounting tab back so I won't have those issues with having to jack the car by the rear end anymore.
Before removal/cutting:
After removal/cutting:
You might also want to get an adjustable panhard bar to center your rear end perfectly to minimize and cutting of the tire by the fender lip. My rear end was shifted a bit to the passenger side, and as a result, the tire got sliced up a bit....
I got the double adjustable panhard bar with rod ends from UMI, makes adjusting it very easy, and I haven't heard any additional noises from the bar which you might expect being that it has rod ends.
I'd also recommend some lower control arms if you don't have them already, they will help reduce wheel hop which is now more likely with the bigger tires.
What tires are you getting?
Manny
And yeah, you can drive it eventhough they will most likely rub...the rubbing's a good thing though, it will show you where you will have to do the massaging with the BFH.
I took my bumpstops out and trimmed the mounting tab back so I won't have those issues with having to jack the car by the rear end anymore.
Before removal/cutting:
After removal/cutting:
You might also want to get an adjustable panhard bar to center your rear end perfectly to minimize and cutting of the tire by the fender lip. My rear end was shifted a bit to the passenger side, and as a result, the tire got sliced up a bit....
I got the double adjustable panhard bar with rod ends from UMI, makes adjusting it very easy, and I haven't heard any additional noises from the bar which you might expect being that it has rod ends.
I'd also recommend some lower control arms if you don't have them already, they will help reduce wheel hop which is now more likely with the bigger tires.
What tires are you getting?
Manny
#4
Thanks for the replies!
I'm going to be purchasing some Nitto's for the Rears.
Do you have to trim the mounting tab,..and what do the bumpstops do?
The crazy thing is I can't remember if I have a panhard bar on the car or not....it's been a while. And the cars been in the shop for a long time.
I'm going to be purchasing some Nitto's for the Rears.
Do you have to trim the mounting tab,..and what do the bumpstops do?
The crazy thing is I can't remember if I have a panhard bar on the car or not....it's been a while. And the cars been in the shop for a long time.
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If you get Nittos, you probably have very little in the way of rubbing issues since they are very narrow for their numerical size. Most guys that have Nittos don't have rubbing issues. The Yokohamas that I have on my car now are one of the widest tires you can buy for their numerical size, which was one reason why I bought them (they are not the tires in those pics). I had to use the hammer when I first put the wheels on with the Dunlop tires on them that you see in the picture. Once I switched to the Yokos, the hammer had to come out again.
The bumpstop is what prevents the suspension from bottoming out. So you do take a risk removing it. In my opinion, the stock bumpstop doesn't do any good once you put the bigger wheels and tires on, simply because the wheel is so much closer to the inner wheel well and therefor, the bumpstop in it's stock location is too far from the axle to prevent it from the wheel hitting the inner fender in time. This is why SLP sells the "jounce bumper spacer" with their SS wheels for Z28 and V6 camaro owners. If you look in the picture that still has the bumpstop installed, you see the spacer between the mounting tab and the actual bumpstop...this is to relocate the bumpstop closer to the axle so it will engage the axle earlier to make up for the wider SS wheels closer proximity to the inner fender well.
I, like many people, threw caution to the wind, and instead of dealing with the hassle of a stock bumpstop that probably won't provide the right protection, I just took the damn thing out and trimmed the mounting tab it is attached to so it will clear the tire. Believe it or not, my dealer, who installed the wheels did all that work! For Free!
Anyhow....as long as you're aware of the situation and drive accordingly, you shouldn't run into problems...I have had these wheels for 3 years and haven't had any issues at all. You really only bottom your suspension out to a point that bumpstops become active if you get the thing airborne, or if you hit a bump in the road and have like 3 fat chicks with you
The bumpstop is what prevents the suspension from bottoming out. So you do take a risk removing it. In my opinion, the stock bumpstop doesn't do any good once you put the bigger wheels and tires on, simply because the wheel is so much closer to the inner wheel well and therefor, the bumpstop in it's stock location is too far from the axle to prevent it from the wheel hitting the inner fender in time. This is why SLP sells the "jounce bumper spacer" with their SS wheels for Z28 and V6 camaro owners. If you look in the picture that still has the bumpstop installed, you see the spacer between the mounting tab and the actual bumpstop...this is to relocate the bumpstop closer to the axle so it will engage the axle earlier to make up for the wider SS wheels closer proximity to the inner fender well.
I, like many people, threw caution to the wind, and instead of dealing with the hassle of a stock bumpstop that probably won't provide the right protection, I just took the damn thing out and trimmed the mounting tab it is attached to so it will clear the tire. Believe it or not, my dealer, who installed the wheels did all that work! For Free!
Anyhow....as long as you're aware of the situation and drive accordingly, you shouldn't run into problems...I have had these wheels for 3 years and haven't had any issues at all. You really only bottom your suspension out to a point that bumpstops become active if you get the thing airborne, or if you hit a bump in the road and have like 3 fat chicks with you
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Jacking it up by the rear end is the only way you will get them on, otherwise the tire will hit the bumpstop assembly and you won't be able to mount them.
And yeah, you can drive it eventhough they will most likely rub...the rubbing's a good thing though, it will show you where you will have to do the massaging with the BFH.
I took my bumpstops out and trimmed the mounting tab back so I won't have those issues with having to jack the car by the rear end anymore.
Before removal/cutting:
After removal/cutting:
You might also want to get an adjustable panhard bar to center your rear end perfectly to minimize and cutting of the tire by the fender lip. My rear end was shifted a bit to the passenger side, and as a result, the tire got sliced up a bit....
I got the double adjustable panhard bar with rod ends from UMI, makes adjusting it very easy, and I haven't heard any additional noises from the bar which you might expect being that it has rod ends.
I'd also recommend some lower control arms if you don't have them already, they will help reduce wheel hop which is now more likely with the bigger tires.
What tires are you getting?
Manny
And yeah, you can drive it eventhough they will most likely rub...the rubbing's a good thing though, it will show you where you will have to do the massaging with the BFH.
I took my bumpstops out and trimmed the mounting tab back so I won't have those issues with having to jack the car by the rear end anymore.
Before removal/cutting:
After removal/cutting:
You might also want to get an adjustable panhard bar to center your rear end perfectly to minimize and cutting of the tire by the fender lip. My rear end was shifted a bit to the passenger side, and as a result, the tire got sliced up a bit....
I got the double adjustable panhard bar with rod ends from UMI, makes adjusting it very easy, and I haven't heard any additional noises from the bar which you might expect being that it has rod ends.
I'd also recommend some lower control arms if you don't have them already, they will help reduce wheel hop which is now more likely with the bigger tires.
What tires are you getting?
Manny
So you basically just trim the bump stop down a little and move it in closer to the middle away from the tire? Sounds easy enough, I just bought the 17x11 TT2's with Nitto 315's so we'll see what happens.
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I used my factory jack, lifted the car up from the factory location in front of the rear tire, and my 17x11 TT2 with a 315 nitto drag radial went on with ease. I guess different wheels have different back spacings, allowing this method not to work with all wheels??? I didn't beat my inner fenders in or anything and I had plenty of clearance.
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#8
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Originally Posted by 67SS&99Z28
I used my factory jack, lifted the car up from the factory location in front of the rear tire, and my 17x11 TT2 with a 315 nitto drag radial went on with ease. I guess different wheels have different back spacings, allowing this method not to work with all wheels??? I didn't beat my inner fenders in or anything and I had plenty of clearance.
#9
I just installed ZR1's last weekend. Took the car to a body shop just in case I ran into problems because I was so paranoid after reading all about these problems people were having. Fortunately I didn't have any problems at all - they bolted right up and didn't rub anywhere