11 Second Club Snake eyes are a good thing

Heads or no heads

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Old Nov 21, 2017 | 02:10 PM
  #21  
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Default Thank you

Originally Posted by qweedqwag
I just did most of what you are describing here is what I did if you care.


1 Re-gasketed everything I could while the engine was out.
2. Cam - TSP 228R with .600 lift and 112 LSA
3. LS7 lifters
4 Double .660 springs locks and retainers
5.Cam chain and sprockets
6.Chevy performance oil pump
7.BBK 1 7/8 headers
8. Ls1 Trunion upgrade roller rockers
9. Front and rear cover plates
10. Already had 3:42 gears and an LS6 intake
11. I also picked up some used 243 heads that were in good shape.
12 Tune with four dyno pulls car made 401 HP. rotating assy had 150k on it.

I'm sure with a different cam, as the 228r is not a radical cam, you could easily make 420. Learn how to drive at the track with some good tires and it could happen.

5
That's awesome to hear. With out the headers and u having better heads I'm losing some how but I'm sure I'll hit 380+ with the tsp 232 tv2
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Old Nov 21, 2017 | 03:19 PM
  #22  
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Don't use a .660 double spring. They're ****.

Use something like a psi 1511.

Realistically 370-380whp can be attained with bolt ons.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 12:41 PM
  #23  
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Franz,

If your goal is consistent mid-11's at full weight, I don't think you'll get there with only the mods listed on the Slohawk quote. I'd guess more like consistent high 11's or low 12's depending on D/A and 60'.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 04:17 PM
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I run low low 11s you will be fine with stock heads.. I also have 853s and run 11.1ish with cam converter and bolt ons
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 04:34 PM
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^^Thats Awesome . I finished up what I'm doing with my car. I opted out of doing rear end gears I have 323s and I'm just scared of it blowing up so I don't want to invest money into it. So my final list is cam kit.. 3600 yank converter..trans cooler.. fast 92 with 92 TB. Ls2 water pump. Tsp headers and catted y pipe. And slp lid. The total is going to cost me anywhere from 6500_7 with parts labor and tune. I hope it's on the low end.
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 06:35 PM
  #26  
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Good deal! In for results.
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 06:39 PM
  #27  
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Thanks gesto. I'll let you guys know the final Dyno numbers.. hopefully i will have the whole job done by xmass. Parts alone are going to take a week or so
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 07:33 PM
  #28  
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To be honest I think you are wasting your time not doing headers with a cam like that. You will probably not hit 11s without doing headers. The cam is going to be choked out from the stock manifolds. Save a little bit money and do it right. Plus when you do go to put headers on you will need to get the the car tuned again which is more money
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:47 PM
  #29  
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Steve, he's added headers to the list in post #25. Who am I? But I agree with your comments on the headers, also a little bigger cam than the 228.

Franz, check out this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/11-second...1-831-a-5.html He's running mid-11's with an LS6 intake and cam but has 3.73's. Opposite of what I recommended so you might pay attention to his build instead of my advice. His cam is a little bigger than the 228.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:55 PM
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Thanks again gesto! If I do gears after the Dyno tune will I have to retune it? I have 323s but I didn't want to invest too much into this 10 bolt
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Old Dec 1, 2017 | 11:58 AM
  #31  
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I've not done this yet but I think you need to adjust your speedometer and your shift tables.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 06:42 PM
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dont think your gonna make it.im 11.5 with my sig but im still need some suspension help.but if you have one of those freaks of nature 4th gen then hey you never know.but i know a kid from buffalo,ny whos doing high 11s with a4 bolt ons,stall,gutted.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 07:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 2000z28franz
Thanks again gesto! If I do gears after the Dyno tune will I have to retune it? I have 323s but I didn't want to invest too much into this 10 bolt
Yes you will need a quick retune after a gear swap. Tuner may not even charge ya for that if you previously had him tune it.

I would not be the least bit concerned about the 10 bolt behind a auto. I have 3.73's in my 10 bolt and pull 1.5x 60's on it and am not remotely concerned about it
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 05:53 PM
  #34  
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Hey guys I just got my car back.. it drives like a whole different car. It made 383hp 342 torque on a Dyno jet. I love it. I'm bringing it back to have the tune adjusted a little more it's surging a little when it's cold and it's only 20. Degrees out. Also it seems like the cable is getting stuck if I rev it. When I start it it usually revs down to 800-900 but if I rev it to like 2_3k it will only come down to 1500
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 10:57 AM
  #35  
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Default Just got back from track

Best time 60ft was tough with the nitto nt555r really had to heat them up and I left at about 2k rpm. Cars 385rwhp
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 2000z28franz
Best time 60ft was tough with the nitto nt555r really had to heat them up and I left at about 2k rpm. Cars 385rwhp
Did you end up doing a cam or is this just bolt ons?
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 11:57 AM
  #37  
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Yea cam intaje torque converter
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 12:02 PM
  #38  
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Maybe i missed it, but what cam did you go with? What were the track conditions like?
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 12:23 PM
  #39  
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It was a custom cam so I'm not positive but 230/230 112 lsa I believe and it's about 53 out dry but cloudy
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 12:37 PM
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Gotcha. Depending on the DA and elevation your times seem a bit slow to be honest. With average overall track conditions you should be trapping more like 115 or so with your mods. How's the tune? What's the AFR and timing at?
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