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bad night at the track

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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:08 PM
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Default bad night at the track

Last time I went to the track I ran a 12.9 @ 110 with a 2.0 60'. since then I took out over 130pounds and stuff from the car and got the car tuned. Last night I only ran a 12.84 @ 112. My BEST 60' was a horrible 2.17. My worst was a 2.4. I think taking out weight and having only 1/4 in the tank compared to 3/4 in the tank and full weight made me spin like crazy. I'm on street tires. Either taking weight out hurt me or a shitty track. I think this car is a good 12.5-6 with some traction.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:15 PM
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I think if weight is removed it should be removed from the middle to front only(front seats forward) I took out my spare and jack and tonneau covers and I was getting 60's just like yours. I also dropped the tires down to 25psi that day.

I 60' best on 30 psi with no less than normal weight in the back. In fact it might be better to add weight in the trunk. You'd maybe be able to 60' better because the weight would add more downforce and traction.

I've never run the 1/4 only the 1/8th. What is your best 1/8th time on street tires? I expect my car to run 12.7 on street tires.

our power is very similar with my having 5rwtq more. our mod differences are I have a udp and stock ls6 intake manifold and I have a y-pipe exhaust setup.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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My best 1/8 was 8.46 @ 87.9 mph
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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You dont add wieght to a car to gain traction first of all. Relocating a battery to a trunk is one thing but to add wieght is just dumb. What you need is a better tire! By taking wieght out and adding power you also need to add traction. I suggest a drag radial and suspension mods if you dont have those already.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1crazy01
You dont add wieght to a car to gain traction first of all. Relocating a battery to a trunk is one thing but to add wieght is just dumb.
w ei ght, is how you spell weight

and if adding weight to the rear is so bad, why would you go through the trouble to put the battery back there?

Yes the more w ei ght you put in the trunk the better your traction will be up to a certain point which is zero spin. You do not want to add so much that it slows you down more than you began with time wise. and the only one's in this thread who are dumb are the ones who cannot spell weight

my best 1/8th is 8.52 don't remember the mph on that run but my best mph ever is 88.xxmph I've added more boltons since then too and still have stock gears in the rear and this is with a vert

but just like when you took the spare and jack out and you lost traction, when you add weight to the rear, you'll gain traction which will help you put power to the ground
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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Sorry......Weight, There is a difference in "relocating" and "adding". The right way is to put a real tire on the car and get some suspension and chassis goodies. A simple drag radial goes a long way..... But if you thing that if you start putting bricks or sand bags in your trunk helps then go ahead.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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I'm just talking about putting the stuff I took out of the car back in. My times are about the same without traction. Only reason I got 12.8 was because I was powershifting. If I put all the weight back in and then powershifted I'm sure I could get maybe 12.7. I didn't powershifting last year with my 12.9. I'm not getting any DRs. I can't afford to replace and rear end right now. I've decided to stay away from the track until I can afford to buy a nice 12 bolt. I just ordered my ls7 clutch and then my cam soon. I'm gonna add the weight back and go to the track before I add my ls7 clutch and cam.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BlkBird2000
I'm just talking about putting the stuff I took out of the car back in. My times are about the same without traction. Only reason I got 12.8 was because I was powershifting. If I put all the weight back in and then powershifted I'm sure I could get maybe 12.7. I didn't powershifting last year with my 12.9. I'm not getting any DRs. I can't afford to replace and rear end right now. I've decided to stay away from the track until I can afford to buy a nice 12 bolt. I just ordered my ls7 clutch and then my cam soon. I'm gonna add the weight back and go to the track before I add my ls7 clutch and cam.
take some extra weight with you, a buddy of mine ran better because he forgot his tool box was in his trunk of his transam. He ran better at the track due to the extra traction
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Just get some good tires and suspension. I go 8.2-8.3 with a non header stock LT1. It's all in the hook. Yea maybe adding weight has helped someone get a .1x, but that is because it helped him hook. Get good tires and suspension and gain .3 or better.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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Driver mod will help us too, big dave on here is running a full bolton, full weight, 6spd, street tire, ls1 SS, to a 1.79 60' 7.9 1/8th, and 12.15 1/4.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7camaro7
Driver mod will help us too, big dave on here is running a full bolton, full weight, 6spd, street tire, ls1 SS, to a 1.79 60' 7.9 1/8th, and 12.15 1/4.
And I would bet that full bolt-on would include some suspension pieces. 1.79 60' on street tire, suspension makes that happen.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 3DFORMULA
And I would bet that full bolt-on would include some suspension pieces. 1.79 60' on street tire, suspension makes that happen.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8FW6NAC-Rg
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99 SS Black M6. 13.28@105 stock.12.15@116.2-w-1.88 60' on street tires. Mods-JH LTs,ORY,cutout,FTRA,4.10s,ls6 intake,ported tb,pulley.Dyno-341/353. 3675+ rcwt.


I'd say you lose this bet because suspension mods are not in his mod list and from the looks of the video it looks like a normal suspension SS to me.

Even if he had suspension he's still on street tires which is the real limiting factor when it comes to traction.

maybe he has tools in his trunk the way the nose stays in the air, I wouldn't doubt it
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 07:11 AM
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Why in the world are you trying to discredit suspension mods. GET REAL! They help improve a cars time by assisting the hooking capabilties. Adding weight, to the rear of the car, to assist in traction, due to an improperly set-up suspension, is an inexperienced way of accomplishing very inconsistent limited results. Your buddy, Big Dave, gets 116mph, thats an mid 11 second pass with the suspension set-up correctly. The original poster here, 112mph, thats low 12's with the suspension set-up correctly.
Try to help folks out legitimently, not rediculously. Good grief, I can't believe the ignorance you are suggesting.

Last edited by 3DFORMULA; Mar 28, 2009 at 07:21 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 3DFORMULA
Why in the world are you trying to discredit suspension mods. GET REAL! They help improve a cars time by assisting the hooking capabilties. Adding weight, to the rear of the car, to assist in traction, due to an improperly set-up suspension, is an inexperienced way of accomplishing very inconsistent limited results. Your buddy, Big Dave, gets 116mph, thats an mid 11 second pass with the suspension set-up correctly. The original poster here, 112mph, thats low 12's with the suspension set-up correctly.
Try to help folks out legitimently, not rediculously. Good grief, I can't believe the ignorance you are suggesting.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I agree with ou 100%. 7camaro7 just does not get it. How many race cars do you see at the track with there Craftsman boxes in the trunk to cut a good 60ft? Its just the dumbest thing I have ever heard in my life. You need at the least some decent suspension. At the least you will need rear control arms and subframe connectors.
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1crazy01
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I agree with ou 100%. 7camaro7 just does not get it. How many race cars do you see at the track with there Craftsman boxes in the trunk to cut a good 60ft? Its just the dumbest thing I have ever heard in my life. You need at the least some decent suspension. At the least you will need rear control arms and subframe connectors.
You are welcome. I just hope the original poster can figure out that he can use suspension mods and drag radials to change his own thread to "Had a GOOD night at the track."
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 3DFORMULA
Why in the world are you trying to discredit suspension mods. GET REAL! They help improve a cars time by assisting the hooking capabilties. Adding weight, to the rear of the car, to assist in traction, due to an improperly set-up suspension, is an inexperienced way of accomplishing very inconsistent limited results. Your buddy, Big Dave, gets 116mph, thats an mid 11 second pass with the suspension set-up correctly. The original poster here, 112mph, thats low 12's with the suspension set-up correctly.
Try to help folks out legitimently, not rediculously. Good grief, I can't believe the ignorance you are suggesting.
I never discredited suspension mods, I'm just saying there are other ways to get down the track faster.

Its funny how you've got a full on drag strip setup with slicks vs my half way built suspension and street tires and I'm like .2 off of you in the 1/8th with a heavy full weight 6spd vert...

I've never heard of a full weight full bolton street tire SS with ALL THE SUSPENSION IN THE WORLD running 11s how about you show me one?

you must run like 6s in the 1/4 then, huh? I mean you've got this mystic suspension and slicks, right?

Last edited by 7camaro7; Mar 28, 2009 at 07:17 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 7camaro7
I never discredited suspension mods, I'm just saying there are other ways to get down the track faster.

Its funny how you've got a full on drag strip setup with slicks vs my half way built suspension and street tires and I'm like .2 off of you in the 1/8th with a heavy full weight 6spd vert...

I've never heard of a full weight full bolton street tire SS with ALL THE SUSPENSION IN THE WORLD running 11s how about you show me one?

you must run like 6s in the 1/4 then, huh? I mean you've got this mystic suspension and slicks, right?
You have no idea what you are talking about with my car. Let me clue you in.

1994 Formula m6:
Sig shows the mods NOTICE: No power adding mods(not even headers)

144,000 miles on the original LT1 motor

Minus back seat, front sway bar, factory air pump, otherwise FULL WEIGHT.

Factory rated 275hp motor when it was fresh and new 144,000 miles ago

Drives 1 hour and 45 minutes from Bartonville, Illinois to Cordova, Illinois
Gets the slicks bolted on upon arrival, launched @ 5700rpm, shifted @ 5700-5800rpm

Then I have to bolt the street tires back on cause I'm gonna have to drive it 1 hour and 45 minutes back home cause it stayed together AGAIN.

Runs 8.27 @ 83.5 mph in the 1/8 and not 6seconds but 12.87 @ 106.98 in the 1/4.

Yours has 75hp + more than mine and is slower. You are 5mph faster in the 1/8, but .2-.3 slower. You are the one that looks like the meathead here.

Last edited by 3DFORMULA; Mar 28, 2009 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 3DFORMULA
You have no idea what you are talking about with my car. Let me clue you in.

1994 Formula m6:
Sig shows the mods NOTICE: No power adding mods(not even headers)

144,000 miles on the original LT1 motor

Minus back seat, front sway bar, factory air pump, otherwise FULL WEIGHT.

Factory rated 275hp motor when it was fresh and new 144,000 miles ago

Runs 8.27 @ 83.5 mph in the 1/8 and not 6seconds but 12.87 @ 106.98 in the 1/4.

Yours has 75hp + more than mine and is slower. You are 5mph faster in the 1/8, but .2-.3 slower. You are the one that looks like the meathead here.
your sig:94 Formula M6-Hurst, Spec 4, Moser 12bolt w/3.73, Midwest Chassis TA, Strange front coilovers, TSP Rumbler, K&N FIPK, LG phr, LG lca's, relo. brackets, ZR1's w/315 DR's--12.87 @ 107---Cordova,Ill

I can beat your 1/4 time on street tires man.

ok chinnuts, you've contradicted yourself 3 times in the 1 message

1. I always thought when people took out their back seat, front sway bar, and air pump, they don't get to call it full weight anymore!

2. You still think you do not have power adding mods, yet you have a tsp rumbler catback exhaust and a kn intake. I don't know why you would go through the trouble to swap these parts in if they didn't add power(or unlock it).

3. You think your car is faster than mine. Yea my best in the 1/8th is 8.52 full weight(the real full weight I even eat breakfast and lunch before I race) and all parts are on the car plus whatever I added. Your best is maybe .3 faster than me and that's with slicks and allllllllllll that weight reduction(you must be desperate to beat ls1s). Now if we were on the 1/4 I'm pretty sure I'd pass your pos before the finish line, me, my front sway bar, my passenger and rear seat and my air pump If big dave can run a 12.15 I can surely pull off a 12.5 ON STREET TIRES...

in the mean time go look up full weight, bone stock, and ls1 vs lt1

Last edited by 7camaro7; Mar 29, 2009 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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This is getting way off topic now.
7camaro7 says,
I've never heard of a full weight full bolton street tire SS with ALL THE SUSPENSION IN THE WORLD running 11s how about you show me one?

Ummmmmmm thats my whole point............. You need a tire and and suspenion. Show me a full bolt on car, full weight on a street tire and a tool box in the trunk to hit 11's.

The whole point to this thread is to help out the OP. He needs tires and suspension mods to utilize his hp to get him down the track.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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Key word is UNLOCK, no adding . My LT1 USES the stock 275hp motor very well and dependably. It is just a suspension car. Which is what the op could use as an example of how it does help a car.
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