Baby cam only-First ET's (STOCK converter)
04-03-2010, 12:36 PM
#1
Baby cam only-First ET's (STOCK converter) I've owned the car 4.5 years now, and hadn't been to a drag strip in over 3 yrs before last night. The last time I went, the car was basically stock (lid/cutout), and ran a 13.5.
Well, I made it to the track last night (with mods in sig-small cam/full exhaust/gears/bolt on's minus the underdrive pulley), and the best I could muster was a 12.48 @113.2 w/ a shitty 1.95 60ft.
I'm sure the Eibach prokit/stock shock combo is hurting me on the 60ft time.
The 60ft is what's killing me, and I was even on 315/35/17 BFG Drag Radials @ 20psi.
I also realized after I left the track that I had made all runs with the air filter still in the car, so I'm not sure if removing it would have helped much or not.
No weight reduction was done other than removing the spare tire/jack.
***Since I'm still on the STOCK torque converter (not for long-my FTI 3600 is sitting in my room waiting for install ), I tried both launching off idle and foot-braking at 1200 rpms. Not sure which helped more, as my 60ft ranged from 1.95-2.00 all night (5 passes).
Thoughts? Advice?
Edit: Also, the first four runs I wasn't really giving the DR's enough heat during the burnout, so I gave them hell in my final pass, but I guess the motor was heat soaked, as my mph dropped to 110 (still couldn't get better than 1.95 60ft that run either).
Well, I made it to the track last night (with mods in sig-small cam/full exhaust/gears/bolt on's minus the underdrive pulley), and the best I could muster was a 12.48 @113.2 w/ a shitty 1.95 60ft.
I'm sure the Eibach prokit/stock shock combo is hurting me on the 60ft time.
The 60ft is what's killing me, and I was even on 315/35/17 BFG Drag Radials @ 20psi.
I also realized after I left the track that I had made all runs with the air filter still in the car, so I'm not sure if removing it would have helped much or not.
No weight reduction was done other than removing the spare tire/jack.
***Since I'm still on the STOCK torque converter (not for long-my FTI 3600 is sitting in my room waiting for install ), I tried both launching off idle and foot-braking at 1200 rpms. Not sure which helped more, as my 60ft ranged from 1.95-2.00 all night (5 passes).
Thoughts? Advice?
Edit: Also, the first four runs I wasn't really giving the DR's enough heat during the burnout, so I gave them hell in my final pass, but I guess the motor was heat soaked, as my mph dropped to 110 (still couldn't get better than 1.95 60ft that run either).
Last edited by squirts11; 04-03-2010 at 12:45 PM.
04-03-2010, 07:29 PM
#2
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Yes u need the converter in your car. I am running 11.88 @113 w/a 1.63 60ft on Nitto 555R's w/ just LT & Off Road Y-pipe,SLP pully,P&P TB,Yank SS3600.The converter will knock 1/2 to a full second off your car so hurry up and get that converter in.Try a adjustable torque arm also.
04-03-2010, 10:15 PM
#4
Yes u need the converter in your car. I am running 11.88 @113 w/a 1.63 60ft on Nitto 555R's w/ just LT & Off Road Y-pipe,SLP pully,P&P TB,Yank SS3600.The converter will knock 1/2 to a full second off your car so hurry up and get that converter in.Try a adjustable torque arm also.
04-04-2010, 10:28 AM
#5
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U have to flash your converter which means from idle you hit it do not bring it up more than 1000 rpm's.If you hit it a idle or a little over it will hit the tires a lot harder and dont worry about your rear end it is not like dumping the clutch in a stick car.
04-04-2010, 07:51 PM
#6
thats what i do! i launch the car around 1000 rpms everytime. i try to take out the little amount of slack in the drivetrain and then nail the throttle. i have a hand full of lower 1.8 60's but only 3 higher 1.7 60's. i have to figure this out its killing me. i know the car is faster then what its running now. time to go to the track again
