reaction--.74
60---1.95
330--3.41
1/8--8.41 @ 84.59mph
1/4--13.03 @ 105.63mph

Im not sure of the da

 

with my mods what do you think i should be running?

that site says the da was 1421

 

I agree. My car ran a nearly identical run but it was with only as lid and catback in 1600 DA. Are you spinning bad?

Jon

 

I had to launch at 1000 rpms then roll into the gas to stop from spinning. When i get drag radials i believe i can hit a 12.7 with my set up and hopfully a 12.5 with gears.

 

I'd say you were at the point where you needed more power not more suspension. I was at that same crossroad once but I decided to go with a stall and sticky tires instead of suspension.

While I'm sure a TA, LCA'a and SFC will be benificial I would rather invest in a 12 bolt and heads first. Then I'll start investing in suspension and wider tires. After that a forged short block. It never ends

Never said they wouldn't help. I said they were not needed IMO at smaller power levels. Lets say I was a 12.9 car again with lid and full exhaust. I could spend close to a grand doing LCA's, TA & SFC. That might get my 12.9 to a 12.8. Or I could spend that same money on a torque converter and make that 12.9 into a 12.4 with a lot more "fun factor" added to the street.

I was running 12.3's with bolt ons and you were running 12.9's. I'm NOT saying you were stupid. Different strokes for different folks. But I am pointing out how bad your argument is that I am stupid

I don't think he was talking about me. But I'm sure you knew that being so smart and all

 

Mind you I've only had this car for 2 months I have a lid, catback, ported TB and ram air. With a stall it'll be on down in the 12s and with full bolt ons, I'll be right on top of your cam only numbers. And I've already got a pretty nice set of heads and a cam sitting here that I had originally planned to use on the CTSV.

I understand that you are saying buy the stall before the TA, I found a deal so I went ahead and bought it. I had the LCAs and SFCs from my old LT1 car. If I could get a stall that cheap I would have it already as well. AND the OP already has a stall, he needs tires and suspension.

Jon

 

All I needed was 4.10s, a tune, and headers, and drag radials of course.

 

Low 12's the more the norm for full weight with full bolt ons. 11's have been done, usually with some weight reduction, but good luck if that's your goal. Just don't be too dissappointed if you're running 12.0-12.2 or so. That's still very respectable for bolt ons.

There is nothing wrong with doing suspension first. Just like there is nothing wrong with doing suspension later. Just as long as it gets done eventually

$700 for a new Circle-D converter is a bargain IMO. I would definately save up and make that the next mod. Besides the kick *** track times, the car is way more fun to drive.

His stall is a little on the small side. But his sig says he has 3.42's and drag radials coming soon. So IMO his next mod money would be best invested in LT headers and an ORY to complete his free flowing exhaust.

LT's, 3.42's and drag radials should be enough to get him mid 12's right now. Then after that I might consider suspension and upping the stall size to the 3600-4000 range

 

It is a daily driver so the highest i think i would want to go is 3200-3600 stall. I would like to get headers but I am going to have to get a catted y-pipe cause my girlfriend will yell at me about the enviroment if i don't. So I was thinking my next mod after the gears and tires would be 100 shot then i can drive a ~12.5 second car on the street and a ~11.5 second car at the track.

 

Get the 3600 then. I heard the Yank SS3600 is a very tight and streetable converter. And My old TCI SSF3500 was very street friendly.

You'll probably keep the car longer then the girl so just get the ORY

J/K

Dynatech makes a nice stainless steel LT header setup with a high flow catted Y-pipe.

Sounds like a good plan to me. I highly recomend a timing tuner with the N20. That way you can have your NA tune and still pull a little timing for N20.

Good luck!

 

i dn what other people think but... running low 12's with bolt ons and full weight is pretty much impossible... i almost have ful bolt ons and i weigh in at 3340lbs and i only run mid to high 12's to run low 12's bolt on only it will require a moderate amount of weight reduction...

 

You have a LT1 and he has a LS1. Big difference when it comes to bolt on potential. Low 12's from a stock weight and full bolt on LS1 is a piece of cake.

I ran 12.4's @ 109 with my car full weight and that was without a lS6 intake, UD pulley, gears and an efficient converter (I was running a TCI 3500 where I'm sure a Yank SS4000 would have gotten better ET's).

 

I ran 12.89 @ 107 in 1000' DA and 3760lbs with a 1.91 60'. Lid, catback, ram air and tune. I'm shooting for 12.7s on Saturday with less weight, an EWP, ported TB and better air (hopefully). I'm planning on a Yank PT4000 stall, LTs, and the FAST 90 off of my CTSV, and maybe some weight reduction too. If I can't get 11s off of that, I might try some drag wheels. I feel confident that it will happen, especially in the winter air.

Jon