1997 Jeep Cherokee LS1 conversion
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
No, not at all. My machinist knocked it out in about 20 minutes on his mill and I fabbed up the steel locking ring in about the same amount of time in the garage. Between the machining, scrap piece of 26 gauge steel, and some new allenheads...under $75.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
Limited progress, but progress none the less.
Finally got the radiator hoses figured out. I used a piece of a metal rod to bend the shape I needed for the upper hose and another for the lower hose. After milling around the hoses at the parts house I ended up with a Drive-Rite D71449 for the upper hose, darn near perfect fit.
The lower hose off of the t-stat housing is made from a Drive-Rite D71762 hose, definitely not a perfect fit. I cut off the end that had a near 180deg bend and inserted a length of the coiled wire from one of my old 4.0L radiator hoses so I could bend the hose a little more without kinking it.
The opposite end had a 90deg bend that matched up nicely to the lower port on the drivers side of the radiator.
I used a piece of 1 1/2" HREW to connect the two ends. There are a couple bends in the tube and I also ran a bead around the tube near the ends. Kind of a home-made rib to help secure the hose and prevent it from shooting off under pressure. Sorry but I didn't get any pics of the tube before installing it.
Finally got the radiator hoses figured out. I used a piece of a metal rod to bend the shape I needed for the upper hose and another for the lower hose. After milling around the hoses at the parts house I ended up with a Drive-Rite D71449 for the upper hose, darn near perfect fit.
The lower hose off of the t-stat housing is made from a Drive-Rite D71762 hose, definitely not a perfect fit. I cut off the end that had a near 180deg bend and inserted a length of the coiled wire from one of my old 4.0L radiator hoses so I could bend the hose a little more without kinking it.
The opposite end had a 90deg bend that matched up nicely to the lower port on the drivers side of the radiator.
I used a piece of 1 1/2" HREW to connect the two ends. There are a couple bends in the tube and I also ran a bead around the tube near the ends. Kind of a home-made rib to help secure the hose and prevent it from shooting off under pressure. Sorry but I didn't get any pics of the tube before installing it.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
This morning I decided to tackle the last little bit of wiring that remains, most notably the Chevy gauge cluster. What should have been a fairly straight forward task turned into a royal pain the keester. Some of you may have heard that the 97 XJ is a Bastard Child and today I found out why.
While going through the wires for one of the larger connectors (C200) under the dash that connects the internal wiring to the harness coming through the firewall, I noticed that the wires shown in the 1997 Factory Service Manual didn't come close to the actual wiring in the rig.
Hmmmmmm,not good.
My next step was to search through the 1999 FSM I have on my computer, no luck there either.
So I spent a long time tracing wires so I could snip and yank the wires that are no longer needed and made damn sure I didn't remove any wires that are needed. It's going to take a while to finish tracing the wires, but this isn't the time to start rushing.
If I'm reading the Chevy schematics correctly, it looks like the the gauge lights are powered by 5v from the Body Control Module. Glad I didn't get rid of the one I got with the engine. I'll post up more info after some more research.
I did hook up a battery and applied power to the heep. I cycled through the On, Start, and Run key positions. No flames, no smoke, no blown fuses and the engine turned over without having to jump any relays. With that done I decided not to push my luck and called it a day.....and the SuperBowl is on.
While going through the wires for one of the larger connectors (C200) under the dash that connects the internal wiring to the harness coming through the firewall, I noticed that the wires shown in the 1997 Factory Service Manual didn't come close to the actual wiring in the rig.
Hmmmmmm,not good.
My next step was to search through the 1999 FSM I have on my computer, no luck there either.
So I spent a long time tracing wires so I could snip and yank the wires that are no longer needed and made damn sure I didn't remove any wires that are needed. It's going to take a while to finish tracing the wires, but this isn't the time to start rushing.
If I'm reading the Chevy schematics correctly, it looks like the the gauge lights are powered by 5v from the Body Control Module. Glad I didn't get rid of the one I got with the engine. I'll post up more info after some more research.
I did hook up a battery and applied power to the heep. I cycled through the On, Start, and Run key positions. No flames, no smoke, no blown fuses and the engine turned over without having to jump any relays. With that done I decided not to push my luck and called it a day.....and the SuperBowl is on.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
I've been trying to integrate a Chevy Tahoe gauge cluster into this build and although the physical aspect of stuffing the cluster into the dash is fairly simple, the electronic logistics are a nightmare. the only way to make it work is to tie-in a Body Control Module and the applicable lighting controls. Since the balance of the dash lights on the XJ would remain 12VDc I'd have to run 2 separate switches/dimmers because the Chevy dimmer lights (in the cluster) are controlled by a 5VDc circuit.
Yes I could press on and buy all of the necessary parts and waste even more hours on this part of the project...but I give up. I could have had the motor running a week ago if I had not been so stubborn.
So now I'm going to spend some time looking for a set of gauges on the interweb. Hopefully I won't waste another week on those as well.
Yes I could press on and buy all of the necessary parts and waste even more hours on this part of the project...but I give up. I could have had the motor running a week ago if I had not been so stubborn.
So now I'm going to spend some time looking for a set of gauges on the interweb. Hopefully I won't waste another week on those as well.
looks very good frank. didnt know so many people on here had cherokees. i have a '88 as my winter beater and have joked about an ls1 swap in it. i actually rolled it last weekend but these cherokee's are hard to kill 
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Niles, MI
First off, this is an awesome swap! Sub'd to follow along!
Forgive me if this is completely wrong as I'm very new to the LSx swap world, but I have worked with my fair share of electronics so I just have to ask. Why not go to radio shack and get a cheap 5v regulator to power the GM cluster? You may not have any dimming ability (a couple resistors or a rheostat could fix that), but maybe you wouldn't need to package in the BCM and it's associated wiring?
Forgive me if this is completely wrong as I'm very new to the LSx swap world, but I have worked with my fair share of electronics so I just have to ask. Why not go to radio shack and get a cheap 5v regulator to power the GM cluster? You may not have any dimming ability (a couple resistors or a rheostat could fix that), but maybe you wouldn't need to package in the BCM and it's associated wiring?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
It's Alive!!!
So happy I could dance!
Finally got the last couple of kinks in the wiring worked out and started it up. Sounds freakin' AWESOME!
After I fired it ip I noticed 2 leaks. One is at the tranny dipstick tube and the other on the gas line. Both should be relatively easy to fix.
As much as I'd love to take it out for a spin there's still lots left to do.
All of the new wiring needs to be cleaned up and secured.
Vacuum lines need to be properly connected and routed.
Shifter needs to be installed.
Mount the Evap Canister and secure all of the fuel lines.
Burp the coolant system.
Finish the cowl hood.
Guages, gauges, and more gauges.
So happy I could dance!
Finally got the last couple of kinks in the wiring worked out and started it up. Sounds freakin' AWESOME!
After I fired it ip I noticed 2 leaks. One is at the tranny dipstick tube and the other on the gas line. Both should be relatively easy to fix.
As much as I'd love to take it out for a spin there's still lots left to do.
All of the new wiring needs to be cleaned up and secured.
Vacuum lines need to be properly connected and routed.
Shifter needs to be installed.
Mount the Evap Canister and secure all of the fuel lines.
Burp the coolant system.
Finish the cowl hood.
Guages, gauges, and more gauges.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
More progress.
Cleaned up some wiring, had some excess lengths that just look like ***.
Replaced the tranny filler tube seal.
A minor set back, but not one to ignore.
Found a small leak at the t-case/tranny tailcone. I've spent too much on this project so leaving it as is simply isn't an option.
Cleaned up some wiring, had some excess lengths that just look like ***.
Replaced the tranny filler tube seal.
A minor set back, but not one to ignore.
Found a small leak at the t-case/tranny tailcone. I've spent too much on this project so leaving it as is simply isn't an option.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
Transfercase pulled, clocking ring cleaned, reinstalled...and no more drip! wOOT!
Lessons learned today:
#1
Chevy dealers are insanely expensive! $35 for a VSS connector with about 10" of wire. NAPA FTW! $20
I should have snipped a connector from a donor rig last time I went to the JY.
#2
700 Watt soldering irons get fookin' hot! Do not allow the tip to touch thigh....OUCH!!
#3
Unplugging your DBW cable with the engine running causes the engine to shut down...this is a good thing. Plugging it back in and restarting the engine resets the DBW system so that your peddle actually operates the throttle.....even better!!
#4
Cheap serpentine belts squeal.........a lot. Replaced it.
Lessons learned today:
#1
Chevy dealers are insanely expensive! $35 for a VSS connector with about 10" of wire. NAPA FTW! $20
I should have snipped a connector from a donor rig last time I went to the JY.
#2
700 Watt soldering irons get fookin' hot! Do not allow the tip to touch thigh....OUCH!!
#3
Unplugging your DBW cable with the engine running causes the engine to shut down...this is a good thing. Plugging it back in and restarting the engine resets the DBW system so that your peddle actually operates the throttle.....even better!!
#4
Cheap serpentine belts squeal.........a lot. Replaced it.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
Well I tinkered with the gauges and wiring again today for a little while and came to the conclusion that although it could probably be done, I've simply run out of movitvation to make it work.
So I'll finish up a few odds and ends and then mothball the project until work picks up again.
So I'll finish up a few odds and ends and then mothball the project until work picks up again.
