bleeding the clutch??
09-06-2010, 09:03 PM
#1
bleeding the clutch?? so ive been trying to bleed my new monster. i have a new slave and tick along with the speed bleeder. had to drill a hole in the floor board in order to get the speed bleeder in while the transmission is in the car. ive tried all different methods on how to bleed it and nothing is working. what is the correct method that will work?
09-07-2010, 10:54 AM
#2
IMO I would not use a speed bleeder.
All you need is a competent helper that can sit in the car, listen to direction, reach the clutch pedal and hold it for the time that you need.
DO NOT PUMP the pedal, it creates more issues then solves.
With my Tick unit and the 2 others I helped install I ALWAYS gravity bleed it which means with the line disconnected from the slave. With the car on jack stands, I fill the resivore(sp) and allow it to drain out of the line and this gets 95% of everything.
I then click in the line.
I have the help push down the clutch and hold. I, the person underneath cracks open the screw, the helper should notice the pedel crash down. I re tighten the bleeder and have them pull up the pedal.
You should be able to do this 3 times before adding some more to the res.
By the 4th or 5th time, it should be ALMOST there. Have them GENTLY Push down, and see if it pumps up. IF it does then top off and your done.
All you need is a competent helper that can sit in the car, listen to direction, reach the clutch pedal and hold it for the time that you need.
DO NOT PUMP the pedal, it creates more issues then solves.
With my Tick unit and the 2 others I helped install I ALWAYS gravity bleed it which means with the line disconnected from the slave. With the car on jack stands, I fill the resivore(sp) and allow it to drain out of the line and this gets 95% of everything.
I then click in the line.
I have the help push down the clutch and hold. I, the person underneath cracks open the screw, the helper should notice the pedel crash down. I re tighten the bleeder and have them pull up the pedal.
You should be able to do this 3 times before adding some more to the res.
By the 4th or 5th time, it should be ALMOST there. Have them GENTLY Push down, and see if it pumps up. IF it does then top off and your done.
09-08-2010, 10:00 AM
#3
The JMD Method to bleed the LS1 clutch. the JMD method:
Use a 90 degree spark plug boot.
At the plug wire boot opening, insert hose that fits snugly and is airtight.
Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out.
Place the spark plug side of the boot over the bleeder.
Set the the loose end of the hose into a bottle.
Keep the reservoir full while some fluid drains from the hose.
Once you've replaced some fluid, remove the loose end of the hose from the bottle.
Place the loose end of the hose into the clutch fluid reservoir so its end is pointed down and submerged in fluid.
Use a clip or wire or have a helper to hold it in place.
Pump the pedal a few minutes.
This forces fluid through the entire system and the air has a chance to escape by bubbling out at the reservoir.
**the Mityvac pull from the reservoir method cannot pull all air out from the slave as the hose connect to the slave below the top of the top fluid level This method can, since the bleeder is at the top of the fluid in the slave.**
I've been doing this method for almost 10 years. It never failed to improve pedal when the master and slave were in good condition.
Use a 90 degree spark plug boot.
At the plug wire boot opening, insert hose that fits snugly and is airtight.
Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out.
Place the spark plug side of the boot over the bleeder.
Set the the loose end of the hose into a bottle.
Keep the reservoir full while some fluid drains from the hose.
Once you've replaced some fluid, remove the loose end of the hose from the bottle.
Place the loose end of the hose into the clutch fluid reservoir so its end is pointed down and submerged in fluid.
Use a clip or wire or have a helper to hold it in place.
Pump the pedal a few minutes.
This forces fluid through the entire system and the air has a chance to escape by bubbling out at the reservoir.
**the Mityvac pull from the reservoir method cannot pull all air out from the slave as the hose connect to the slave below the top of the top fluid level This method can, since the bleeder is at the top of the fluid in the slave.**
I've been doing this method for almost 10 years. It never failed to improve pedal when the master and slave were in good condition.
Last edited by jmd; 10-04-2011 at 12:26 PM.
09-08-2010, 10:51 AM
#4
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I did my master and slave a couple of years ago using the following (had a slave extension). When you say speed bleeder, do you mean slave extension line?
1) hook motive power bleeder up to reservoir (fill motive with fluid) and pressurize between 8-10 psi.
2) submerge end of slave extension in jar of brake fluid.
3) crack line while still submerged and wait for bubbles to stop.
So far I've had no issues. The motive and slave extension are awesome!
1) hook motive power bleeder up to reservoir (fill motive with fluid) and pressurize between 8-10 psi.
2) submerge end of slave extension in jar of brake fluid.
3) crack line while still submerged and wait for bubbles to stop.
So far I've had no issues. The motive and slave extension are awesome!
05-14-2011, 02:18 AM
#5
the JMD method:
Use a 90 degree spark plug boot.
At the plug wire boot opening, insert hose that fits snugly and is airtight.
Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out.
Place the plug side of the boot over the bleeder and the loose end of the hose into a bottle.
Keep the reservoir full while some fluid drains from the hose.
Once you've replaced some fluid, re-route the hose up to the reservoir so its end is pointed down and submerged in fluid.
Use a clip or wire or a helper to hold it in place.
Pump the pedal a few minutes.
This forces fluid through the entire system and the air has a chance to escape by bubbling out at the reservoir.
**the Mityvac pull from the reservoir method cannot pull all air out from the slave. This method can.**
I've been doing this method for almost 10 years. It never failed to improve pedal when the master and slave were in good condition.
Use a 90 degree spark plug boot.
At the plug wire boot opening, insert hose that fits snugly and is airtight.
Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out.
Place the plug side of the boot over the bleeder and the loose end of the hose into a bottle.
Keep the reservoir full while some fluid drains from the hose.
Once you've replaced some fluid, re-route the hose up to the reservoir so its end is pointed down and submerged in fluid.
Use a clip or wire or a helper to hold it in place.
Pump the pedal a few minutes.
This forces fluid through the entire system and the air has a chance to escape by bubbling out at the reservoir.
**the Mityvac pull from the reservoir method cannot pull all air out from the slave. This method can.**
I've been doing this method for almost 10 years. It never failed to improve pedal when the master and slave were in good condition.
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07-03-2011, 08:14 PM
#7
First question should be what are your problems or symptoms of a poorly bled system.
Assuming you need to bleed the system better, I always start by power bleeding the system, just like brakes, have someone that'll crack the bleeder when you press the pedal. Get the slave good and bled.
Next, and ultimately to bleed the system use a mitivac through the reservoir. It's going to seem like it takes forever but if you have the kit sealed properly you'll be pulling air from the system and bleed it that way.
Assuming you need to bleed the system better, I always start by power bleeding the system, just like brakes, have someone that'll crack the bleeder when you press the pedal. Get the slave good and bled.
Next, and ultimately to bleed the system use a mitivac through the reservoir. It's going to seem like it takes forever but if you have the kit sealed properly you'll be pulling air from the system and bleed it that way.
Last edited by Kaltech Tuning; 07-04-2011 at 09:29 AM.
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09-07-2015, 08:53 PM
#8
Launching!
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the JMD method:
Use a 90 degree spark plug boot.
At the plug wire boot opening, insert hose that fits snugly and is airtight.
Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out.
Place the spark plug side of the boot over the bleeder.
Set the the loose end of the hose into a bottle.
Keep the reservoir full while some fluid drains from the hose.
Once you've replaced some fluid, remove the loose end of the hose from the bottle.
Place the loose end of the hose into the clutch fluid reservoir so its end is pointed down and submerged in fluid.
Use a clip or wire or have a helper to hold it in place.
Pump the pedal a few minutes.
This forces fluid through the entire system and the air has a chance to escape by bubbling out at the reservoir.
**the Mityvac pull from the reservoir method cannot pull all air out from the slave as the hose connect to the slave below the top of the top fluid level This method can, since the bleeder is at the top of the fluid in the slave.**
I've been doing this method for almost 10 years. It never failed to improve pedal when the master and slave were in good condition.
Use a 90 degree spark plug boot.
At the plug wire boot opening, insert hose that fits snugly and is airtight.
Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out.
Place the spark plug side of the boot over the bleeder.
Set the the loose end of the hose into a bottle.
Keep the reservoir full while some fluid drains from the hose.
Once you've replaced some fluid, remove the loose end of the hose from the bottle.
Place the loose end of the hose into the clutch fluid reservoir so its end is pointed down and submerged in fluid.
Use a clip or wire or have a helper to hold it in place.
Pump the pedal a few minutes.
This forces fluid through the entire system and the air has a chance to escape by bubbling out at the reservoir.
**the Mityvac pull from the reservoir method cannot pull all air out from the slave as the hose connect to the slave below the top of the top fluid level This method can, since the bleeder is at the top of the fluid in the slave.**
I've been doing this method for almost 10 years. It never failed to improve pedal when the master and slave were in good condition.
For a new master and slave, do you recommend any type of bench bleeding prior to installing them and using your bleeding method above? If so, what process do you use for that?
At the end, with clutch pedal down, remove the spark plug boot and tighten bleeder screw?
Also, does the spark plug boot at the bleeder end seal up well?
This method seems really good and is what I plan to use. Thanks!
09-09-2015, 06:29 PM
#10
Launching!
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Thanks, jmd.
Should I be concerned with getting "too much" brake fluid from the bleeder port into the bellhousing area during the bleeding process? I guess it will just drain out the weep hole, but want to be certain non of that makes contact with the clutch.
Should I be concerned with getting "too much" brake fluid from the bleeder port into the bellhousing area during the bleeding process? I guess it will just drain out the weep hole, but want to be certain non of that makes contact with the clutch.
09-13-2015, 09:18 PM
#12
Launching!
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jmd,
This process worked perfectly!! Thanks for this idea.
However, I did make a mistake at the end. After taking the spark plug boot / hose off the bleeder, fluid flowed out of the bleeder faster than I was anticipating. By the time I tightened it, the reservoir was dry. Not sure if fluid was still in the line above the master, but below the reservoir. I ended up filling the reservoir the rest of the way. The pedal feels great so far (based only on a short drive), but if air did enter the system due to that mistake above, I'll need to repeat the process again.
This process worked perfectly!! Thanks for this idea.
However, I did make a mistake at the end. After taking the spark plug boot / hose off the bleeder, fluid flowed out of the bleeder faster than I was anticipating. By the time I tightened it, the reservoir was dry. Not sure if fluid was still in the line above the master, but below the reservoir. I ended up filling the reservoir the rest of the way. The pedal feels great so far (based only on a short drive), but if air did enter the system due to that mistake above, I'll need to repeat the process again.
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