The Black Stig

OK hear it is, I Have a certain 5th Gen vehicle. It will soon be around 3500-3600lbs...

1.LS3 engine that could be reliable and street driven that would last to 50k-70k before a rebuild is needed. 2.The car would likely be road raced on the weekends. and daily driven in the summer (weather permeating). I do plan on using Oil,Trans, and diff coolers, electric water pump, and UD pulley. The drive shaft will be CF CV's will be as well, Dual clutch is on order, and light weight fly-wheel.

As far as power 600-670H.P. At the wheels all N/a and with an red line of 7-8k (7500 would be perfect 8 a plus) Truth Be told I was looking at "Built" Short blocks that I could just add Head's, Cam's, etc. to. But I couldn't find much.... So it seems that It will have to be all custom, so what components and combinations should i be looking for?

Okay so what I want and what I would like you guys to help me with is below.

Any good short blocks?

What heads?

What Top end components/Kits should be used for reliability?

What Bottom end components/Kits should be used for reliability? (looking at diamond products)

Looking at comp cams Rpm (will call them later) (want to keep it street able)

Next is oil? can I use the Dry-sump system from the ls7?

Add anything else I'm missing please. And keep in mind that I want this motor LIGHT weight and quickly high revving as with the entire drive line

Also take note I'm reading through this site and it's massive amount of knowledge so if I'm a Lil ''slow'' on terms or my lack of knowledge in certain areas please forgive me.
Thanks for all you future help!

The Black Stig

Also where could I find books/video dvd's (Assembly & Disassembly tips tricks and hints) on the LS3 engines? or General LS engines in general

The Black Stig

I would like to added I'm thinking about having it sleeved as well and maybe 100 Shot of NO2 via the TB plate (For embarrassment purposes only :p)

ringram

With the rigth parts Id say its possible for sure. Talk to one of the good engine builders out there. It might cost you a bit for the nice heads and lightened rotating assembley, lightweight valvetrain etc, but should be attainable for sure.

68lemans

iTrader: (17)

What Bottom end components/Kits should be used for reliability? (looking at diamond products) if it waz me i,d use an ls7 crank an ti rods an go with diamond pistons..that crank will fit in any of the ls blocks ..i think, like 6.0 truck block or go alm block ls2..
i have ls7 crank an rods 4 sale ..i,m going with a 3.900 crank in my motor


Next is oil? can I use the Dry-sump system from the ls7?
you are going 2 need a ls7 crank ..because it has a long snout 2 work with the factory oil pump dry sump system ..there is nothing wrong with them ..that is what im going 2 use in my ls7 with a carb on it ....if u look in the 4 sale on here ..some one is selling the dry sump system in there very cheap look 4 it ...go back a least 20 pages..you,ll find it ..also 4 the dry sump tank look at patterson tanks.. they are around $ 400 for it ...

abbaskhan

whats up with the yellow text??? jk


its possible but with some serious $$$$ (truth be told you could do a 1200HP turbo motor cheaper)

better look at short stroke, big bore, dry sump, TI valvetrain.. a serious set of heads plus other $$$ internals .....

high rpms with ITB's intake would be the ticket IMHO

or buy a "detuned" duplicate of this...scroll down ther is list of componets they used in comments

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr_gl2cgl1o


heres are some links that may help in the direction you want to go

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...o-updated.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-33-n-mir.html

The Black Stig

BTW I am wanting to build this myself and just out sourcing the tuning and machine work...... Put it this way give me parts and I assemble the Lego's .

97ta383

iTrader: (5)

The guy who is doing my car a shop hear in maryland called P.S.I. his girlfreinds car has a 427 ls3 with out of the box ET ls7 heads, ls7 intake, and a hydrolic cam i dont know the specs but it made just over 600hp to the wheels through a turbo 400. He said she spins it to 7200 to 7500 rpm.

COPO9560

If you want capability to daily drive 600+ hp with no power adders, you really need to look for more displacement. If you want to use LS3 block, you need to have it sleeved. This gives you option to get much larger in displacement. You will need very good heads, light valves and great springs. Don't normally equate high hp NA engines with long life - 7500-8000 rpm is more than most DD cars need.

Are you planning to put the Gen V on a diet?

The Black Stig

I've read a few threads and I picked up the idea that a sheet metal intake is not all that great for the stret but the engines in question were making over 700. Would i need to be worried about this with in my planned power lvl's?

97ta383

iTrader: (5)

Is this going in a new camaro cause for a street car that heavy wouldnt you want more low end torque then a high rpm motor would make?

abbaskhan

it is orange !!

i would think you wanna keep alot of cubes (400plus)
take in to account to the rpms you wanna push.....with a smaller motor your not gonna move a 3600lb car out that fast...so again i would think more cubes

try looking this route

http://www.streetlegaltv.com/forum/e...h-ls-2482.html


and i dont think you will end up keeping a "factory" engine in any sense of the word
if you meant keeping your block then sleeves from darton would work

heads...all pro or do you wanna be a test mule for the edelbrock lsr heads?? ther are quite a few options out ther

itb's....

http://www.extrudabody.com/index_tech.html

http://www.extrudabody.biz/servlet/t...its/Categories

good luck!!!

The Black Stig

Want to keep it semi stock looking.... I might just lower that rpm to 7300 and a shift point of 6800-7000. For the point of durability and reliability it will be sleeved and @ 427cubes maybe bigger? maybe 440? But I'm keeping my factory block

ringram

You can sleeve and keep your factory block out to 454 cubes, then 700 is easy!

ayousef

doable, but not "easy" before even thinking of your redline, you have to think or perhaps research when the motor will hit its peak power, because a few hundred rpms after peak power is where you would want to shift, any higher and you're going slower (if thts what you want lol)

If there is a receipe to make an LS7 or stroked LS3 peak at 7000rpms then redline at 7500ish then im in. I dont know how possible this is without a HUGE cam, and a whole lot of researching on heads that can acheive those flow numbers, not to mention intake manifold, throttle body, and exhaust etc...

ringram

Intake manifold will alter torque peak IIRC. You will have to dump the composite.
Speak to Eric, 700bhp in a 457 is one of his standard builds. Im sure Chris from CC can provide more info

The Black Stig

I having that issue, looking at an fast 102 big intake Mani.... but airflow seems to be the key to me really doing this.....

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

600-670RWHP or Crank HP?

niceguyyy01

iTrader: (13)

He wants it at the wheels. I think it is do-able with a 427" motor that turns about 7500. Talk to Erik at HKE, but I am pretty sure he'll tell you it's do-able. But like everyone said, it will require some pretty good heads and a very healthy hyd roller.

I don't know about the whole intake deal... if you are planning on building it yourself, then getting a combo together is probably something you will have to spec yourself. I doubt if the top guys are gonna give you their power making combos for free, it is how they feed their families and they have invested lots of time into researching what makes power and what doesn't.

ayousef

without a big *** cam and some serious compression 650rwhp will NOT be possible.

Yes some have gone beyond 600rwhp but those were allout road race cars and no one gave a damn how those cars drove on the street, if thats what the OP islooking for, although I doubt that. Again, its more than just an intake manifold to get peak power wher eyou need it to be to justify spinning to about 7500rpms.