Something I did not talk about, but I should mention is the new throttle cable and gas pedal set up. I wanted to keep the factory mechanical rod set up, but it did not work with the Bowtie overdrives detent cable bracket. I tried a gas pedal and cable out of a early 70s A-body. It can be made to work with modification to the pedal and some welding on the firewall, but I did not care for the set up. Now I have purchase a Lokar billet gas pedal assembly (XBAG 6129) and Lokar throttle cable (TC-1000U). The pair were about $180 from Summit. The pedal is designed for 64-67 Chevelles, but I took the gamble it will be the same. We will see tomorrow when I get a chance to work on the car.

 

I was thinking about one of those myself. Curious to see how that works.

 

The pedal works great. Pretty much bolts in but you have to slightly enlarge the hole where it goes through the firewall and you have to drill a new hole for the cable.

 

The exhaust is in. It is 3" duals that exit in the stock location. I used a Pypes Stainless X-pipe, Walker Dynomax Super Turbos and T/A Performance Tail pipes.

Here is the video:

 

Congratulations, you are making me jealous. Hope to finish my 64 chevelle soon. Really nice work on the tranny plumbing.

 

Sounds nice inside. Whats it like outside in the open?

 

Sounds mean!

 

Thanx Guys!

Louder. It is really quiet at an idle, but when you rap the throttle, she fills the air with that raspy sound. She revs quick, kind of like a motorcycle.

 

TSNOW678 pointed out something I have heard in other places about the heater hose lines. He has read that the heater house inlet and outlet on the water pump should not be blocked off, but looped. I have read people doing it both ways. My assumption was that since the people who blocked them have not noticed any ill effects that it was fine. However, since the cost of the hose needed to loop them is very small, I will try it both ways and see if I notice any practical difference it temperatures or thermostat operation. If it does require a loop system, it will mean some engineering will be required when the new climate control system is installed because I doubt it is a bypass valve set up. Here is the part number the Tony used on his Camaro: Gates 18777. Here is the Dayco number: 87653. It is OEM on 81 to 84 VW Sciroccos.

 

On all the desert racecars and sandrail we have here in California that use the LS motors, the hose outlets are tapped and plugged. No reason to loop them. We run these cars hard for long periods of time with no issues with overheating.

 

Are you guys using the stock thermostat and housing with this configuration?

 

We can do it 2 ways. Stock therm and housing, or remove the therm, install a freeze plug inside the pump(where the small end of the therm sits) with a 1/4" hole.

My last car I would run thru the desert at 120mph on 90+ deg days for about 1 hour straight with never a cooling issue. Was a 580hp LS2.

 

It seems this topic is just as confusing as the location of the steam port exit. I included a thread that discussed this same topic. It seems the coolant flow to the thermostat is decreased if the outlets are blocked but some coolant can still get by to actuate the thermostat. Some say they have over heating problems at idle others dont. I guess the safe bet would be to loop them. There was a good point made about the heater control valve. If the heat was cut off then no flow would loop to thermostat anyways unless there was some sort of crossover used. I am not sure how the factory setup was routed. I didnt use the stock thermostat as I am using a SBC thermostat. I only looped mine until I get the Vintage Air setup and need heat.

 

I would love to see how the Gen III heater valve is designed. Then we would at least know what the factory intended. I will post a thread in the internal engine gen III thread to see if anyone would be willing to show a picture and talk about how it operates.

 

I did find these exploded diagrams. If I interpret it correctly, the heater lines from the water pump seem to go to a coolant tank reservoir where you add coolant. Here are the diagrams:

 

I read on post on a truck forum that said when the valve is closed, it is a loop. But, holding one of these valve in our hand would likely answer our questions:

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50014+2014027

 

Yes, you could use a diverter valve or just make the crossover tube smaller than the heater hose's smallest line. It will flow until the heater valve is open then it will take the least path of resistance, IE: the bigger hose through the core. This is how ford does it on a lot of oem stuff. Yes it will still flow but seems to work on factory fords.

 

Speedtigger you really do your homework thats for sure. Appreciate the follow up.

 

Fenders are on.

I have a few things left to do:
make the brackets for the cooling fan
install the fan controller
install the fuel pump relay
wire up all the gauges
wire the console and put it back together
finish installing the urethane body bushings

In the mean time, some mysterious marks on asphalt.

 

Hmmmm...how did those get there???