1965 Skylark LQ9 Retrofit / Swap - Build Thread
#183
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't know how you were linking/uploading your photos before, but if you use an online place like photobucket, imageshack, or supermotors (which is what I use), then you'll still have all your photos in order for documentation, even if this site gets screwed up again. I've got probably 6 vehicles loaded onto Supermotors, and its easy to use. You can create subfolders in each record, like "Engine Swap", "Detail", etc... Here's a link to my "garage" if you'd like to check it out...maybe it's something you can use...
http://www.supermotors.net/users/Quil
http://www.supermotors.net/users/Quil
Just remember that all of us who have been watching thus far have gotten to appreciate your hard work, it's just all the late comers that don't get to see it as it was, so shame on them for coming late to the party ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Seriously though, watching your thread has, for some reason, been inspiring me to go work on my car more. Not sure why considering the first time I saw a pic of your car I had to google "Skylark"
That and you make it looks so damn easy ![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Seriously though, watching your thread has, for some reason, been inspiring me to go work on my car more. Not sure why considering the first time I saw a pic of your car I had to google "Skylark"
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
#185
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just went through my cars engine harness diagram to plan my modifications for my late model alternator and MSD ignition wiring modifications. It was just one more occasion to appreciate the practical and spartan simplicity of 1965 engineering.
Here are a few pics of how they did it in 1965:
Here are a few pics of how they did it in 1965:
#187
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am now reformatting the factory engine wiring harness and installing the MSD wiring harness. I ditched the bulky MSD wire loom locks in favor of black zip ties at the wire junctions. This makes for a much more sleek and aesthetic installation.
When installing my steam line, I found that it was completely blocked. In fact it was blocked so completely that I had to drill out the hose passage so that water would flow. I am sure glad I found this now instead of chasing overheating problems after the install.
I also installed the core support. This will allow me to get my radiator hoses chosen and give me a place to install a radiator and battery to start this beast.
Just nibbling away at the list.........
When installing my steam line, I found that it was completely blocked. In fact it was blocked so completely that I had to drill out the hose passage so that water would flow. I am sure glad I found this now instead of chasing overheating problems after the install.
I also installed the core support. This will allow me to get my radiator hoses chosen and give me a place to install a radiator and battery to start this beast.
Just nibbling away at the list.........
#188
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Today I picked up a couple radiator hoses.
The upper hose from a 2001 Vette is perfect except for the outlet size. That will not be a problems because I am using a Jags-That-Run steam vent hose adapter that transitions from the Vette's 1 5/16" outlet size to the Skylark's 1 9/16" hose size.
For a lower hose I picked up a 2001 Camaro lower. This hose too is the perfect shape but has the same problem of being too small in diameter at the radiator connection. However, in looking at my factory 65 Skylark lower radiator hose, I think it will work perfect if I just cut a few inches off on the water pump end. So, I will order in a new factory 65 Skylark lower hose.
Now, I just need to find out if I can merely plug the heater hose connections on the water pump until my new a/c & heating system is installed.
Here are a couple pictures of the upper radiator hose and the steam vent hose set up:
The upper hose from a 2001 Vette is perfect except for the outlet size. That will not be a problems because I am using a Jags-That-Run steam vent hose adapter that transitions from the Vette's 1 5/16" outlet size to the Skylark's 1 9/16" hose size.
For a lower hose I picked up a 2001 Camaro lower. This hose too is the perfect shape but has the same problem of being too small in diameter at the radiator connection. However, in looking at my factory 65 Skylark lower radiator hose, I think it will work perfect if I just cut a few inches off on the water pump end. So, I will order in a new factory 65 Skylark lower hose.
Now, I just need to find out if I can merely plug the heater hose connections on the water pump until my new a/c & heating system is installed.
Here are a couple pictures of the upper radiator hose and the steam vent hose set up:
Last edited by speedtigger; 04-15-2011 at 07:17 PM. Reason: Add pictures
#189
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know that on the sandrails that use the LS motors they pull the heater hose tubes and tap and plug the holes. I'll ask my contact at CBM motors if there is anything else needed. I seem to remember hearing omething about drilling a hole somewhere as well.
#190
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I removed my heater hose nipples from my water pump, they are just a press fit and then I tapped the holes with a 3/8 and a 1/2 tap and intalled plugs and I have about a 1000 miles so far with no problems, you will find about a 50/50 % consensus on doing it this way and others saying the must be looped together with a piece of U-shaped rubber hose, or that they must be routed through a bypass shut off valve then to your heater core.
#191
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I removed my heater hose nipples from my water pump, they are just a press fit and then I tapped the holes with a 3/8 and a 1/2 tap and intalled plugs and I have about a 1000 miles so far with no problems, you will find about a 50/50 % consensus on doing it this way and others saying the must be looped together with a piece of U-shaped rubber hose, or that they must be routed through a bypass shut off valve then to your heater core.
#192
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Today was another day where I worked 8+ hours on the car and it sure did not look like it when I was done. In all fairness though, there was a lot of fabrication.
I installed the heater box block off plate with threaded inserts, mounted the MSD with threaded inserts, installed the trans-cooler, made the custom trans-cooler steel lines (all 5/16" steel with inverted flare fittings and no rubber hoses), found and installed a lower radiator hose, installed the battery and mounting system on the core support, bought a heavy duty 4 gauge alternator wire and connectors.
The lower radiator hose part number that worked for me was Dayco 71321.
The upper radiator hose combination that worked for me was Dayco 71981 (2001 Corvette) spliced with a section of Dayco 71421.
If I can fabricate the transmission to radiator lines, fabricate the fuel lines from the tank to the engine, install the starter and get the wiring done tomorrow, I can hear it run. I am pretty tired tonight, so we shall see how much energy and motivation I have tomorrow.
Here are some pics of the progress:
I installed the heater box block off plate with threaded inserts, mounted the MSD with threaded inserts, installed the trans-cooler, made the custom trans-cooler steel lines (all 5/16" steel with inverted flare fittings and no rubber hoses), found and installed a lower radiator hose, installed the battery and mounting system on the core support, bought a heavy duty 4 gauge alternator wire and connectors.
The lower radiator hose part number that worked for me was Dayco 71321.
The upper radiator hose combination that worked for me was Dayco 71981 (2001 Corvette) spliced with a section of Dayco 71421.
If I can fabricate the transmission to radiator lines, fabricate the fuel lines from the tank to the engine, install the starter and get the wiring done tomorrow, I can hear it run. I am pretty tired tonight, so we shall see how much energy and motivation I have tomorrow.
Here are some pics of the progress:
#195
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
I still have to wire the engine harness and plumb the lines from the tank to the engine - then we can hear it run.
Yep, I planned it out. Then I found all the stuff that did not work out as planned and re-planned them again.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#199