1965 Skylark LQ9 Retrofit / Swap - Build Thread
03-31-2011, 08:24 AM
#141
Would the Dirty Dingo sliders work? They are 1/4" higher than others (so they say), and you should have plenty of adjustability.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1318
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1318
Last edited by speedtigger; 03-31-2011 at 09:27 AM.
03-31-2011, 09:32 PM
#142
After a lot of staring and figuring, I decided to make my own mounts.
I really don't know how the hell anyone would be able to put an LS1 in a 64-65 A-body with the popular swap conversion plates. There is no way the steering was going to clear the pan without raising my engine.
My new mounts will truly keep the engine in the original position from a front to back standpoint. And they will raise the engine about 3/4" over where the conversion plates would have it.
I bought all the steel, cut the pieces and have it all laid out. Now I just have to drill the holes and weld it all together. I will post pics and info this weekend to share the new design.
I really don't know how the hell anyone would be able to put an LS1 in a 64-65 A-body with the popular swap conversion plates. There is no way the steering was going to clear the pan without raising my engine.
My new mounts will truly keep the engine in the original position from a front to back standpoint. And they will raise the engine about 3/4" over where the conversion plates would have it.
I bought all the steel, cut the pieces and have it all laid out. Now I just have to drill the holes and weld it all together. I will post pics and info this weekend to share the new design.
04-01-2011, 01:55 AM
#143
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Wow! I stumbled upon this thread searching around for engine options and your build is truly inspiring! I am also on v8buick and am in the process of selecting the best drivetrain options for my 64 Special. Great info! Thanks
I'm seriously considering a similar build but with a manual trans. The little 300 is cute this thing is a friggin beast! Nice Work
Kelly
I'm seriously considering a similar build but with a manual trans. The little 300 is cute this thing is a friggin beast! Nice WorkKelly
04-02-2011, 03:23 AM
#147
Dirty Dingos? The name and looks of them seem like they would be problems 
Nice job on the fab. How about S&P thats what Ill be trying here once they come. save your template I might need it
Nice job on the fab. How about S&P thats what Ill be trying here once they come. save your template I might need it
04-02-2011, 05:25 PM
#148
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I was wondering, whats the ground clearance like with the headers with the standard mounts you had on it? I need to get my headers and the Dougs are looking like the ones to get.
04-02-2011, 09:36 PM
#150
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Awesome..ty for the pic. I guess I may need to run over to Pertronix next week and pick some up...that is if I havnt decided to do the turbo for sure by then.
04-02-2011, 09:46 PM
#151
Today was an interesting day. I fitted and final welded the new motor mount frame stands. What I have found with this particular swap and these headers is that the motor must be in the perfect position. I tweaked for hours until everything cleared.
Even with everything perfect, I still needed some clearance between the headers and the floor pans, and a little more clearance for the steering from the oil pan. I found both and here is how:
To get more clearance between the floor pan and the headers, I replaced the old rotten body mounts with new urethane body mounts. That was good for between an 1/8" and a 1/4" of an inch.
To get more room between the oil pan and the steering center link, I loosened the steering box and the idler arm bracket then rotated them down to the end of their travel and re-tightened them. This was actually good for a full 1/4". So, if you are struggling with this, it could be free clearance for you.
With all this done, I will still have to ding the drivers side header at the steering shaft. It is not touching, but there is only 1/16"-1/8". So, the area of the header will have to be flattened until I see a safe distance.
The fabrication of the motor mount stands has really slowed my roll, but I know that the time spent now will make the finished project a sweet piece. Here are some pictures of the finish welded motor mount frame brackets installed and a picture of the the modified motor mount adapter bracket and motor mount.
Even with everything perfect, I still needed some clearance between the headers and the floor pans, and a little more clearance for the steering from the oil pan. I found both and here is how:
To get more clearance between the floor pan and the headers, I replaced the old rotten body mounts with new urethane body mounts. That was good for between an 1/8" and a 1/4" of an inch.
To get more room between the oil pan and the steering center link, I loosened the steering box and the idler arm bracket then rotated them down to the end of their travel and re-tightened them. This was actually good for a full 1/4". So, if you are struggling with this, it could be free clearance for you.
With all this done, I will still have to ding the drivers side header at the steering shaft. It is not touching, but there is only 1/16"-1/8". So, the area of the header will have to be flattened until I see a safe distance.
The fabrication of the motor mount stands has really slowed my roll, but I know that the time spent now will make the finished project a sweet piece. Here are some pictures of the finish welded motor mount frame brackets installed and a picture of the the modified motor mount adapter bracket and motor mount.
Last edited by speedtigger; 04-04-2011 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Added modified motor mount adapter bracket pics
04-02-2011, 10:02 PM
#153
After the work was done today, I threw on the coil covers to see if they would clear the booster. They did. I also have to decide what color to paint the coil covers. I was thinking that going silver would just be too much silver. I also thought the red would be too much. The painter says I should go black. I was also thinking of a charcoal color. Decisions, decisions..............
04-03-2011, 09:18 PM
#156
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After the work was done today, I threw on the coil covers to see if they would clear the booster. They did. I also have to decide what color to paint the coil covers. I was thinking that going silver would just be too much silver. I also thought the red would be too much. The painter says I should go black. I was also thinking of a charcoal color. Decisions, decisions..............
04-04-2011, 06:51 PM
#157
After the work was done today, I threw on the coil covers to see if they would clear the booster. They did. I also have to decide what color to paint the coil covers. I was thinking that going silver would just be too much silver. I also thought the red would be too much. The painter says I should go black. I was also thinking of a charcoal color. Decisions, decisions..............
04-04-2011, 09:22 PM
#159
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How is your fit with the tranny to tunnel clearance? Do I remember that you are using a 200R4? Did you have to hammer or modify the tunnel?
My trouble at the moment is tranny tunnel interference with a 4L60e, but with the removable bellhousing it is larger than the 200R4 .
My trouble at the moment is tranny tunnel interference with a 4L60e, but with the removable bellhousing it is larger than the 200R4 .
04-04-2011, 10:08 PM
#160
I think it is the 11"
Plenty of clearance all the way around the TH200-4R. The closest thing is the servo and there is an inch there. I went to a lot of trouble to find the perfect balance of steering / oil pan clearance, header clearance and transmission clearance. Motor position is critical with this motor and the Doug's header's on my build.
I snuck in about 2 to 3 hours work on the car today. It was one of those days where it looked about the same when I was done as when I started.
I mocked up a set of power steering hoses to take to the hydraulic shop tomorrow. I hooked up the TV cable and set up all the brackets. The throttle linkage is going to require some engineering. I installed all the accessories and the drive belt.
How is your fit with the tranny to tunnel clearance? Do I remember that you are using a 200R4? Did you have to hammer or modify the tunnel?
My trouble at the moment is tranny tunnel interference with a 4L60e, but with the removable bellhousing it is larger than the 200R4 .
My trouble at the moment is tranny tunnel interference with a 4L60e, but with the removable bellhousing it is larger than the 200R4 .
I snuck in about 2 to 3 hours work on the car today. It was one of those days where it looked about the same when I was done as when I started.
I mocked up a set of power steering hoses to take to the hydraulic shop tomorrow. I hooked up the TV cable and set up all the brackets. The throttle linkage is going to require some engineering. I installed all the accessories and the drive belt.