TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

What was the part number for the body mount kit you used?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

It is in the project parts list which is now post #4. Here it is for convenience: Energy Suspension Body Mount Kit #3.4155G.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Thanx everybody for your kind words. It is not really a loss for me, as I have lived it. But, I think it is certainly a loss for the community that may have learned from, or been entertained by the project and the story.

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I must have scanned right over it.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I just went through my cars engine harness diagram to plan my modifications for my late model alternator and MSD ignition wiring modifications. It was just one more occasion to appreciate the practical and spartan simplicity of 1965 engineering.

Here are a few pics of how they did it in 1965:

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

Those 2 pages made the whole thread super awesome for me. I made sure to save the wiring diagrams right away..lol..Thanks a ton for those.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I am now reformatting the factory engine wiring harness and installing the MSD wiring harness. I ditched the bulky MSD wire loom locks in favor of black zip ties at the wire junctions. This makes for a much more sleek and aesthetic installation.

When installing my steam line, I found that it was completely blocked. In fact it was blocked so completely that I had to drill out the hose passage so that water would flow. I am sure glad I found this now instead of chasing overheating problems after the install.

I also installed the core support. This will allow me to get my radiator hoses chosen and give me a place to install a radiator and battery to start this beast.

Just nibbling away at the list.........

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Today I picked up a couple radiator hoses.

The upper hose from a 2001 Vette is perfect except for the outlet size. That will not be a problems because I am using a Jags-That-Run steam vent hose adapter that transitions from the Vette's 1 5/16" outlet size to the Skylark's 1 9/16" hose size.

For a lower hose I picked up a 2001 Camaro lower. This hose too is the perfect shape but has the same problem of being too small in diameter at the radiator connection. However, in looking at my factory 65 Skylark lower radiator hose, I think it will work perfect if I just cut a few inches off on the water pump end. So, I will order in a new factory 65 Skylark lower hose.

Now, I just need to find out if I can merely plug the heater hose connections on the water pump until my new a/c & heating system is installed.

Here are a couple pictures of the upper radiator hose and the steam vent hose set up:

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

I know that on the sandrails that use the LS motors they pull the heater hose tubes and tap and plug the holes. I'll ask my contact at CBM motors if there is anything else needed. I seem to remember hearing omething about drilling a hole somewhere as well.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I removed my heater hose nipples from my water pump, they are just a press fit and then I tapped the holes with a 3/8 and a 1/2 tap and intalled plugs and I have about a 1000 miles so far with no problems, you will find about a 50/50 % consensus on doing it this way and others saying the must be looped together with a piece of U-shaped rubber hose, or that they must be routed through a bypass shut off valve then to your heater core.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I hope it is not a problem. As you can see in the pictures below, I put rubber caps on mine as I will need them as soon as the new climate control system is installed. I would think that if it was a problem, it would present itself immediately.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Today was another day where I worked 8+ hours on the car and it sure did not look like it when I was done. In all fairness though, there was a lot of fabrication.

I installed the heater box block off plate with threaded inserts, mounted the MSD with threaded inserts, installed the trans-cooler, made the custom trans-cooler steel lines (all 5/16" steel with inverted flare fittings and no rubber hoses), found and installed a lower radiator hose, installed the battery and mounting system on the core support, bought a heavy duty 4 gauge alternator wire and connectors.

The lower radiator hose part number that worked for me was Dayco 71321.
The upper radiator hose combination that worked for me was Dayco 71981 (2001 Corvette) spliced with a section of Dayco 71421.

If I can fabricate the transmission to radiator lines, fabricate the fuel lines from the tank to the engine, install the starter and get the wiring done tomorrow, I can hear it run. I am pretty tired tonight, so we shall see how much energy and motivation I have tomorrow.

Here are some pics of the progress:

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

Very clean installs there. Well worth the time it took. Next is video of it running!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Top notch! Looks great! You planned it out perfectly.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I hoped to hear it run today, but I apparently forgot how ridiculously slow and picky I am. It took me 5 hours to make my transmission lines today.

I still have to wire the engine harness and plumb the lines from the tank to the engine - then we can hear it run.

Yep, I planned it out. Then I found all the stuff that did not work out as planned and re-planned them again.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

We are down to shifter, engine wiring, fuel lines & exhaust.

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

Woohoo!! Engine wiring then fire it.

thursdaymike

iTrader: (3)

That is one clean car man!!

gjestico

iTrader: (5)

Looking good. Whats the part number on that oil filler cap that goes directly into the valve cover ? Instead of the stockers' extension tube they put on there.

w4625

iTrader: (1)

What are you planning to do with the original speedometer gauge and the vss for the 200r4?