speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The transmission, cross-member and drive shaft are in. Looking at the driveshaft at the tail-shaft, it is immediately obvious that the Edelbrock motor mounts do not put the engine in the stock location. The engine appears to be 1/2" to 3/4" forward of the stock location.

Moving the engine back 1/2 to 1 full inch from where the Edelbrock adapters locate the engine will solve the header hitting on the left lower control arm saddle problem. There appears to be plenty of room to move it back with no penalty whatsoever.

The inner tie rod hitting the oil pan problem will not go away unless the engine is raised 1/2 to 1". There is just no way around it.

Moving the engine back will eliminate the header hitting the steering shaft problem, but raising the engine will bring that problem right back again. The header will have to be dimpled where the number 5 cylinder tube touches the steering shaft. In looking at the header design, there was plenty of room to have routed the header further from the steering shaft, it would make a nice design improvement for the Doug's.

My mission now is to find a motor mount set up that moves the engine up and back about 1". If I recall correctly, that is exactly what the BRP setup does. I will do a little research. If nothing obviously correct shows up for me, I will doing a little custom fabrication.

Here is a picture that may help you. I did not measure from the oil pan, but from the inside of the starter pad to the nearest header tube is 4".

SkylarkLS1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the pics , question..what small block chevelle mounts are you using, from my understanding they had the short and wide mounts but also tall and narrow sbc mounts which everyone uses. Could this solve the problem? Depending on if you use those and maybe re locate them on the crossmember could solve your problem. Just a thought

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I have the 65 Chevelle small block frame stands.

From an engineering standpoint, the simplest thing to do is just take out the frame stand bolts and slide the engine back to the desired location, then lift the engine enough so that the steering clears the oil pan and make a plate/spacers. Once everything is in a happy place, mark the cross-member for new holes.

I looked at a picture of the Doug's motor plates that are supposed to go with the headers and they do not appear to be a solution. dimensionally they look nearly the same as the Edelbrock adapters, but they have two engine position options. Unfortunately, the 2nd position is even further forward.

I also looked around the net at the various other adapters. They are typically even further forward than the others. I don't know how this works out for other years, but for 64 & 65 cars, this not going to work well.

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

I think i would make some new plates with the engine setback you want, sell the E-brocks, and make your own frame stands.
With the number of combinations of parts out there, I think thats what i'll do to get the engine right where i want it.oOr just buy all the BRP stuff.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Since I do not have BRP headers, buying the BRP mounts is a gamble. Also, I did not see where they sell their mounts separately. I only see the kit.
However, I did see this at summit. It may be an excellent solution. Nice and clean:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4501/?rtype=10

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

That looks like a good option if you dont want to design them yourself.

scatillac

iTrader: (12)

The TransDapt #4575 locates the motor 1" to the rear. This will allow the Gen3/4 to bolt to an OEM SBC transmission without moving it from it's original position. This is handy when your dealing with stock consoles and such.

The TransDapt mounts are steel and not pretty, but they work. I just used them in a 5.3 swap in a Suburban w/an OEM SBC and everything lined up perfectly. JEGS and Summit both have them in stock for around $52.

If you feel the need to raise the motor, a 1/4"-3/8" spacer between the engine mount brackets and the frame should do the trick when combined with the adapter plates. You may have to elongate the motor mount holes a bit in the engine mount brackets with a die grinder, but it's not enough to weaken them and the holes are hidden by the motor mounts.

Consideration must also be given to engine/transmission angle and resultant changes to driveline relationships.

Poly mounts sag less that rubber mounts and are better where clearance is an issue.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

If you look at the transdapt mount, the bolt hole locations are identical to the Edelbrock adapters. I don't see any of these aftermarket adapters that move the move the motor back. I don't know what these makers are basing the term "back" on, but it is not looking that way on my project.

I will likely just customize or fabricate to locate the motor where it works for me.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Would be nice and clean for sure. I do wonder how the circular bushing will handle the load and dampen the vibration compared to the flat mounts though.

bigmandengo

iTrader: (21)

BRP quoted me $280 for just the g-body mounts

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

They will handle the load and vibration just fine. Remember, those round bushings have been used for mounting leafsprings for years without any issues. Just make sure they are not put in a front to back twist when changing the engine/trans angle.

I just bought a 2003 6.0 from a local wrecking yard today, and will be taking my t56 to the shop for a go-thru tomorrow. Finally might make some progress on my car..WOOT.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

That is a very good point.

scatillac

iTrader: (12)

When the bottom front motor mount boss on the Gen3/4 case is also the attachment point for the bottom motor mount bolt of an SBC-type mount, this very closely approximates the SBC motor location in the frame, but since the Gen3/4 case is shorter than the SBC by ~1 1/4" or so, the motor is considered to be mounted rearward from that point when it is done in order to retain the OEM motor to transmission relationship. Slotted holes on the transmission crossmember then make up the difference, if any.

I would have thought that the Buick frame would have been very similar to a Chevelle frame of the same year, but I guess not.

The load handling capability of the round bushings is almost without peer, they are strong and durable. There is a cost, however, to this strength.

They do transmit quite a bit more vibration than a "conventional" type mount unless you use a very soft durometer material for the bushings. I put a set of nicely fabricated round-bushing mounts on my V and later removed them due to the vibration and noise transmission.

Do an internet search and look at C5 Corvette motor mount brackets. They can be used with early ('32-'48) Ford mount biscuits for a very durable (and comfortable) system.

SkylarkLS1

iTrader: (1)

I would just honestly use spacers to get to desired height and dont use existing frame holes with the perches. I would just position everything and weld the frame stands once its in place. BRP does sell there stuff seperately you just have to call him but your right its a gamble not using their headers. I never heard of edelbrock not working though on your year.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

That was tempting for sure. I just don't think I could live with doing it that way. I have become fussy in my old age.

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

Go to the following thread. There are pics of different motor mount plates with dimensions, one of them being a 1" setback plate.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...t-adapter.html

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The plate dimensions they have listed as a 1" set back plate is the same dimensions for the Edelbrock, Doug's & Hooker plates. All I can tell you is that those plates have the transmission about 1/2" forward of where the stock set up was located in my car.

No worries, I will create an arrangement that works.

gjestico

iTrader: (5)

Mod/cut/weld the oil pan ! It needs those 'bulges' removed from each side. Don't screw up your driveline angle. You're already going to have to beat the floorpan a bit for the servo on that 200-4r ?
So what do the mount Mfgr's consider moved ? the front face or bellhousing face of the engine ? LSX engines being about 1-1/4" shorter block than the 'ol smallblock chevy.
That's what ya get for starting with a Buick. I thought Dentists drove those ?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The transmission has ample clearance all around. No problems there. You on the other hand are due for a root canal!

Earl Filter

iTrader: (1)

Would the Dirty Dingo sliders work? They are 1/4" higher than others (so they say), and you should have plenty of adjustability.

http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1318