Nice work. I love the built not bought approach when it makes sense. You will love the in tank pump vs. the external. I made a similar switch (only mounted my pump in a cell) and I wont run a noisy, cavitating external pump again.

Not sure what you figured out for the Variable Geometry Turbo but there is a controller out for them which you can progam a map and it includes a **** for you dash which you can adjust the spool characteristics of your map as you drive. Some guys are swapping them onto the older 12V dodge diesels because there so darn cool. Believe its made by Fleece performance for around $400 but dont qoute me on that.

Saw that you were running a 95 s10 radiator, do you recall if it was out of a 4.3 truck or a 2.2l? I missed what fan you were going to run? I have a 70 nova and and hve an lq4 im am in the early stages of putting in.

 

Thanks for the comments.

I like the "built not bought" approach in general too.. was intimidating at first but there's no better way to learn, provided you can afford the tools to do the job moderately right. Now there are so few things that I would simply just buy, like the 4 link, but I couldn't even leave that alone.

I ended up ditching the Holset VGT turbo after hunting down a comparable Holset compressor map (for an HE35, supposedly a near identical non-variable vane version) and realizing that the compressor would simply be out of the acceptible efficiency range for my 6.0L displacement and the rpms it will end up running. I sold the Holset to a guy wanting to retrofit it on a diesel 5.9L and he was going to make his own vane controller for it. I ended up going for a Turbonetics TC76 with the F1 wheel, and 0.96 A/R hotside, talked to a handful of experts on this forum as well as directly to a couple turbo companies, and for my mild engine, medium-hp levels and medium boost, all recommended a T or TC 76mm turbo, with a 0.81 or 0.96 depending on how I wanted the "lag" to feel. To be honest, a bit of lag isn't such a bad thing for a streetcar that has hopes of even just a bit of decently good fuel mileage on the odd occasion.

The radiator I got for super cheap off craigslist, and it's for a 4.3. Not sure if it'll do the job, but I made sure the radiator/intercooler were jammed forward as much as possible to give a couple inches of extra room to the engine/accessories if I need to get a larger radiator. That's also the reason I didn't use an integrated oil cooler or put the oil cooler in front of the intercooler or rad. I'm using a Zirgo 14" 2750cfm fan, it's a generic speedparts store kinda fan, will see how well that works. I am crossing my fingers tho that the radiator does a good enough job, because the inlet/outlet are positioned perfectly for nice, clean, short rad hoses.

 

Despite having a cold, it was a good weekend. Trunk sheetmetal wrapped up. Rear end had brackets fully welded, painted, and filled with gear oil. 4link frame brackets fully welded in and painted. Fuel supply and return lines fully bent and connected (sans 1 return fitting I'll pick up tomorrow). Rear end in, final pinion angle set, brake lines hooked up. All it needs now is the brakes bled, and the exhaust welded a bit and thrown up in there. Only things really left are to bolt the seats and seatbelts in, flash the PCM, and fill with coolant/oil. Pics:





Fabrication by any means necessary...

 

joe, i'm anxious to see how she performs. you can see the light! I wish I'd have cut the corners (literally, not figuratively) on my tank like you did. I have no room for exhaust pipes between it and the coil-overs, so I dumped it right in front of the axle until I figure out what to do.

I've actually got a burning question to ask you -- do you know this guy???

 

HAH I definitely don't know that guy, but would like to sit down and have a beer with him haha, seems interesting. Our new BC licenses sure look like the Hawaiian McLovin licenses eh.

 

Well at the final stages. Got all connections hooked up and flashed the PCM with the initial tune. I literally only need to find a gas tank cap and put oil/coolant in it before I can start it... slightly exciting!

Made a new upper rad hose connector that tee's the heads' coolant crossover tube into it. Anybody want the old coupler??









Look close but actually decent clearance..





Going to add a battery disconnect on the negative side for "just in case", just need to finish the mounting bracket..



Convenient passage with hold-down tabs and everything in the passenger kickpanel area. Doesn't look it but there is a recess where the 2gauge power wire loops into the vent hole, so the wire isn't just protruding on the edge of the hole there.

 

If there's one thing I've learned from bikes, is that even if a cable or hose is mounted securely or doesn't even look close to touching something, with vibration it will, and over time even a nylon hose can wear right thru metal. Not good. So the turbo feed line in all its abrasive braided stainless glory is 100% secured and isolated from any nearby objects to minimize wear it might have on nearby stuff.

Due to all the turbo pipes and merge crap going on in front & on the passenger side of the engine, I didn't want the turbo feed line snaking through all of that, so took a more roundabout way to tee it off of the oil cooler outlet port.

Bad angle but there is about 1" of clearance below the line to both aluminum cold side pipes..





Down around the framerail and over to the driver's side of the car





Again because of the angle it looks tight, but the hose isn't actually stretched here. Tee'd off of the exit port of the oil cooler.

 

Awesome work once again!! I bet your stoked on hearing that beast run!!! **** I wouldnt have been able to sleep last night if I was that close. Watch out neighbors, Shes alive!!! Now to get the car shook down and meet up with a specific second gen Camaro for the final word! Great job and thanks for all of the pics. The pics have been a big help at times for me.

 

Gas is in the tank, fuel pump is wired and FPR set to 56psi initially, coolant is in with no leaks, oil is in with no leaks and builds ~12psi when turned over without plugs. Plugs are now in. PCM is flashed. Gopro camera battery is charged.

Seems there's only one more thing left to do, but I can't seem to remember what it is.

 

Put keys and signed title envelope and send to me...

 

grab a handful of oreos, your car keys, and tell the wife you'll see her tomorrow.

 

hit it !

 

stuff the gopro in a good location, grab a buddy and a video camera, and get some glorious video of that mother!! seriously, congrats on finally getting her together. i'm crossing my fingers that you don't have oil pressure issues

 

Curious why you didn't just tap that fitting into your water pump for the coolant crossover? Nice build though im doing a 5.3 with an s475 in a 1970 nova.

 

Whats the verdict? You get the Nova back on its feet or what?

 

Wouldn't fire. Good fuel pressure to the rails, but just cranked and cranked. Pulled a couple plugs and they were perfectly clean so have a feeling the injectors aren't getting a pulse. Going to load the previous mod'd stock tune tomorrow and see if the engine tries to catch at all. I did re-plug the harness with USCAR injector plugs, is it possible that I swapped the wires/terminals in the plugs? Do they have a polarity? Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Funny, my phone didn't ring... How about I come over and take a peek?

 

I know nothing on tuning but have seen a thousand times on here where the VATS was left on and the engine wouldnt fire. You would think even with the injectors wired backwards it would still cycle. Maybe I am wrong. Are you running a MAF or did you go speed density? If running a MAF, unplug it and it will fail safe to speed density. You didnt use the original wire to the distributor did ya? It has resistor wire and will not allow a full 12 volts out. Just throwing out ideas! All of your fuses good, relays? Sorry you are having troubles! Hope to hear this beast run soon!

 

Can't wait to hear how it goes. I have been following your build since I joined in October, and even I am itching to see her run! Good luck figuring out the injector issue! Sorry I have no input to lend on that subject.

However I did have one thing I wanted to bring up, the location of your FPR. As I understand, NHRA regs. specify the FPR must not be mounted to the fire wall as it is considered a fire hazard in the event of clutch/torque convereter decided to exit the car in a hurry. Not sure if you ever plan to run at a track where it would be an issue. Just a heads up. Now hurry up and get her moving!

 

I'm guessing joe doesn't have much drag racing in mind, considering there's no sealed battery box or external kill switch. hell, they'd probably require a cage just seeing the blown LS motor.

and the injectors are pretty simple.... pink is positive, black ground. i doubt you reversed the polarity, but it would be pretty simple to pull the connector and check