HELP! bleed clutch how to
12-12-2004, 06:17 PM
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HELP! bleed clutch how to can anyone help with this hidden bleeder valve. Is there one???? i have been spending alot of time reading about drilling holes but not yet considering drilling holes to find the bleeder. Can some one help PLEASE! Pics would be helpful for everyone. i have burned up fluid and would like to change it out. Thanks. 
Last edited by a12packnfish; 12-12-2004 at 06:26 PM.
12-13-2004, 08:57 AM
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Look at the trans. You can see where the braided line goes into the trans. This is the line from the master into the slave. About 2" directly above that is the bleeder screw for the system. You can not see it but you can feel it. Get a 1/4" breaker bars and a 7/16" socket, pump up the clutch, crack the bleeder and close it again. Repeat this a few times and make sure you don't run out of fluid.
HTH
HTH
12-13-2004, 10:54 AM
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I use a 11mm socket and a 1/4" ratchet. If you have clearance issues, try putting the socket onto the bleeder screw first, then attaching the ratchet to the socket.
Steve pretty much covered it, but don't forget that bleeding the clutch this way is a 2-person job. You need someone to pump the clutch 25-30 times and then hold the clutch pedal to the floor on the last pump... you then crack the bleeder screw until the air is expelled and fluid starts coming out, then close the bleeder screw, THEN the pedal can be let back up. If you release the pedal while the bleeder screw is open, you'll suck air into the system. Not fun if that happens.
Steve pretty much covered it, but don't forget that bleeding the clutch this way is a 2-person job. You need someone to pump the clutch 25-30 times and then hold the clutch pedal to the floor on the last pump... you then crack the bleeder screw until the air is expelled and fluid starts coming out, then close the bleeder screw, THEN the pedal can be let back up. If you release the pedal while the bleeder screw is open, you'll suck air into the system. Not fun if that happens.
12-13-2004, 05:14 PM
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thanks for the reply's. Found the bleeder! 
thanks guys! for everyone else.....above the slave and quick connect fitting there is a bleeder. hard to see if u are not looking for it. drilling a hole from the body might not be a bad idea. i am thinkn i may do it for better access.
thanks guys! for everyone else.....above the slave and quick connect fitting there is a bleeder. hard to see if u are not looking for it. drilling a hole from the body might not be a bad idea. i am thinkn i may do it for better access. Last edited by a12packnfish; 12-13-2004 at 05:45 PM.
01-05-2005, 11:34 PM
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I was able to fit a 11mm short socket over the bleeder, so I'm sure I found it. However, I'm having problems fitting the 1/4 driver in it. The O2 sensor hose gets in the way, and a very small hand would be best. As suggested, I'm going to drill a hole into the side of the trans tunnel and access from inside. Based on what I've read, this is what I'll need to do to flush:
1) drain as much fluid from reservoir with turkey baster
2) refill to max with dot 3 fluid
3) pump clutch pedal 25-30 times quickly (build pressure) and then hold
4) from inside car, crack bleeder valve for a second or two and then close quickly
5) repeat 2-4 until fluid runs clean (making sure reservoir is always topped off at max)
When I turn the bleeder open, will the fluid just shoot over/through the socket? Also, I doubt I'll be able to see the fluid drain from inside the car, but I bet I'll hear it. I'll have a catch pan underneath and will examine the fluid after each flush step.
Is there anything I've missed? Thanks!
1) drain as much fluid from reservoir with turkey baster
2) refill to max with dot 3 fluid
3) pump clutch pedal 25-30 times quickly (build pressure) and then hold
4) from inside car, crack bleeder valve for a second or two and then close quickly
5) repeat 2-4 until fluid runs clean (making sure reservoir is always topped off at max)
When I turn the bleeder open, will the fluid just shoot over/through the socket? Also, I doubt I'll be able to see the fluid drain from inside the car, but I bet I'll hear it. I'll have a catch pan underneath and will examine the fluid after each flush step.
Is there anything I've missed? Thanks!
01-06-2005, 02:50 AM
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Basically, if you try to do this with a socket on the valve, the fluid is going inside the bellhousing. It will shoot into the socket and then will run down into the bellhousing. The best way to bleed/flush at same time is to:
1) Release the valve without pumping the pedal.
2) Take an old spark plug boot (90*) which will fit perfectly snug over the end of the valve.
3) get some vacume hose thats just big enough to fit inside the plug boot and run it into a 20 oz. soda bottle that has enough clean brake fluid in the bottom to cover the end of the hose.
4) this is a 2 person job as well, cause someone will need to be inside pumping pedal, and the other will need to keep the reservoir full and watch the bottle to see when air stops and also look for clean fluid coming out.
5) You will need to pump for about 5 min or so. Once you have clean fluid coming out of the hose, you should be flushed and now all you have to do is keep the pedal down, and pull the plug boot off. Then tighten the valve back up and try it out.
**Thanks to jmd because this was his method, just altered a little to accomodate a flushing the system. I just did this today and my clutch catches soooo much harder. Before, it would just barely bark in second, and I was getting a real bad thump or pop from the tranny. Now, theres no thump, and this thing is still smoking them thru 3rd! This is the performance I was expecting from the Spec clutch!
1) Release the valve without pumping the pedal.
2) Take an old spark plug boot (90*) which will fit perfectly snug over the end of the valve.
3) get some vacume hose thats just big enough to fit inside the plug boot and run it into a 20 oz. soda bottle that has enough clean brake fluid in the bottom to cover the end of the hose.
4) this is a 2 person job as well, cause someone will need to be inside pumping pedal, and the other will need to keep the reservoir full and watch the bottle to see when air stops and also look for clean fluid coming out.
5) You will need to pump for about 5 min or so. Once you have clean fluid coming out of the hose, you should be flushed and now all you have to do is keep the pedal down, and pull the plug boot off. Then tighten the valve back up and try it out.
**Thanks to jmd because this was his method, just altered a little to accomodate a flushing the system. I just did this today and my clutch catches soooo much harder. Before, it would just barely bark in second, and I was getting a real bad thump or pop from the tranny. Now, theres no thump, and this thing is still smoking them thru 3rd! This is the performance I was expecting from the Spec clutch!