what should i do with the crossover coolent passage?
what should i do with the crossover coolent passage? the crossover coolent passage, the one that normally goes to the throttlebody then to the radiator... what should i do with it?
i cant run it directly into the radiator... plus i dont want a long hose....
can i just tap near the engine coolent exit? like where i have the red dot in the pic? put a fitting in there, and run the hose to it.. would that cause a problem with anything?
i cant run it directly into the radiator... plus i dont want a long hose....
can i just tap near the engine coolent exit? like where i have the red dot in the pic? put a fitting in there, and run the hose to it.. would that cause a problem with anything?
I am pretty sure you have to run it into the top of the radiator or into the upper radiator hose. If it were possible to put the hose where the red dot is, then I am sure GM would have done it that way. It certainly would be easier.
Andrew
Andrew
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
That whole system is supposed to rid the heads of any trapped air/steam and to warm the throttle body, it's best to have that dump into a higher point in the cooling system, on my 1935 Ford I have it entering my upper radiator hose (it's two pieces connected by a stainless tube & a nipple for the small line) high above the intake. You may be limited more than I but it should be in the upper hose or tank somewhere I think.
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
the crossover coolent passage, the one that normally goes to the throttlebody then to the radiator... what should i do with it?
i cant run it directly into the radiator... plus i dont want a long hose....
can i just tap near the engine coolent exit? like where i have the red dot in the pic? put a fitting in there, and run the hose to it.. would that cause a problem with anything?
i cant run it directly into the radiator... plus i dont want a long hose....
can i just tap near the engine coolent exit? like where i have the red dot in the pic? put a fitting in there, and run the hose to it.. would that cause a problem with anything?
The result looks very clean and more importanly it works.
You can see it here:
There are more pics on my site. I had done the same mod to my 2000 SS.
Here is a good shot of the fitting on my 2000 SS (the same deal used on my 69)
http://www.z069.us/00/Engine_Rebuild/bypass.JPG
well, i have plastic radiator tanks, so welding another fitting is out..
i suppose i could tap a piece of pipe and put a nipple on the upper radiator hose.... i guess thats what i'll do. thanks.
i suppose i could tap a piece of pipe and put a nipple on the upper radiator hose.... i guess thats what i'll do. thanks.
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
well, i have plastic radiator tanks, so welding another fitting is out..
i suppose i could tap a piece of pipe and put a nipple on the upper radiator hose.... i guess thats what i'll do. thanks.
i suppose i could tap a piece of pipe and put a nipple on the upper radiator hose.... i guess thats what i'll do. thanks.
I tapped the inside of that nipple 1/4" NPT, and threaded in a 90deg 1/4" NPT to 1/4" barb fitting. The fitting coming off the heads is 1/4", so the right length of 1/4" ID hose got it done. I added a light smear of epoxy on the threads of the 1/4" NPT fitting just for good measure, and it's been fine all season.
I was going to have to cap that radiator nipple anyway, as the LS1 has both heater feed and return right on the water pump. This procedure solved both problems.
Originally Posted by crainholio
Here's what I did, at Speartech's suggestion. My IROC radiator had a nipple on the pax side tank, used to return coolant from the heater core.
I tapped the inside of that nipple 1/4" NPT, and threaded in a 90deg 1/4" NPT to 1/4" barb fitting. The fitting coming off the heads is 1/4", so the right length of 1/4" ID hose got it done. I added a light smear of epoxy on the threads of the 1/4" NPT fitting just for good measure, and it's been fine all season.
I was going to have to cap that radiator nipple anyway, as the LS1 has both heater feed and return right on the water pump. This procedure solved both problems.
I tapped the inside of that nipple 1/4" NPT, and threaded in a 90deg 1/4" NPT to 1/4" barb fitting. The fitting coming off the heads is 1/4", so the right length of 1/4" ID hose got it done. I added a light smear of epoxy on the threads of the 1/4" NPT fitting just for good measure, and it's been fine all season.
I was going to have to cap that radiator nipple anyway, as the LS1 has both heater feed and return right on the water pump. This procedure solved both problems.
oh yea.... the later stock 3rdgen radiators did have the return in the coolent tank.
i think i can snag one off a friends car and do somthing like that..
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Verdad Gallardo That hose really needs to go to the highest point in the colling system on the pressure side. The purpose is to completely fill the block and heads with coolant. The crossover between the heads is the highest point in the engine and by looping it back into the water pump you are defeating the purpose of being able to "burp" the engine of any air.
Andrew
Andrew
Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
That hose really needs to go to the highest point in the colling system on the pressure side. The purpose is to completely fill the block and heads with coolant. The crossover between the heads is the highest point in the engine and by looping it back into the water pump you are defeating the purpose of being able to "burp" the engine of any air.
Andrew
Andrew
However, my '02 Silverado has the cyl head vent tube connected about 1/2 way down the radiator tank...much much lower than the heads themselves.
GM evidently knows something we don't.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
The hose does not have to return to a high point. It looks like the air bubbles accumulate at a high point, and then can be purged to a lower point in the return system.
Here's a pic of the purge hose on our 04 5.3 Envoy; it's the black hose "T"ing into the return heater hose just a few inches above the water pump fittings.
Here's a pic of the purge hose on our 04 5.3 Envoy; it's the black hose "T"ing into the return heater hose just a few inches above the water pump fittings.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
That hose really needs to go to the highest point in the colling system on the pressure side. The purpose is to completely fill the block and heads with coolant. The crossover between the heads is the highest point in the engine and by looping it back into the water pump you are defeating the purpose of being able to "burp" the engine of any air.
Andrew
Andrew
i kinda disagee with this... and heres my unproven theory out of my head that made me start this post.
ok, you have your sealed block... near the top, the airpocket forms..
well theres pressure on it... so if we open it up to release the pressure (the vent) its going to get pushed out.
so if i push it out into a hose, that hose can go up/down/wherever and the air bubble gets pushed along with it. like when you're bleeding brake lines.
so if i feed it into the return to the radiator it will go with the flow and into the radiator... and stay there until its burped out of the cap...
mostly i didnt want to run a line to the radiator... it would nice to put a stock looking hardline in.
how much is a new waterpump from GM?(2002 Fbody LS1) anyone have a part number? just incase i mess it up....
Perhaps having the hose simply go to the pressure side of the system is enough to draw out any air bubbles. I know that I had some troubles with my RX7 when doing all this. However, I had other issues. My radiator filler was below the crossover tube. I ended up having to fabricate a remote filler tank and seal off the radiator. I had the hose from the cross over tube going to the remote fill tank, and the thermostat was still not opening. As soon as I added a T fitting into the cross over tube and had another section of hose going to the upper radiator hose, everything worked like a charm. This would lead me to think that its not just the height of the tube that is important, but its also important that the tube go into the pressure side of the system.
I would be curious to see how it all works with a fitting going into the water pump. It would certainly be a cleaner install.
Please keep us all posted!
Andrew
I would be curious to see how it all works with a fitting going into the water pump. It would certainly be a cleaner install.
Please keep us all posted!
Andrew
Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Perhaps having the hose simply go to the pressure side of the system is enough to draw out any air bubbles. I know that I had some troubles with my RX7 when doing all this. However, I had other issues. My radiator filler was below the crossover tube. I ended up having to fabricate a remote filler tank and seal off the radiator. I had the hose from the cross over tube going to the remote fill tank, and the thermostat was still not opening. As soon as I added a T fitting into the cross over tube and had another section of hose going to the upper radiator hose, everything worked like a charm. This would lead me to think that its not just the height of the tube that is important, but its also important that the tube go into the pressure side of the system.
I would be curious to see how it all works with a fitting going into the water pump. It would certainly be a cleaner install.
Please keep us all posted!
Andrew
I would be curious to see how it all works with a fitting going into the water pump. It would certainly be a cleaner install.
Please keep us all posted!
Andrew
from the factory it does NOT go to a "pressure part"
it goes into the coolent tank on the radiator. thats not a moving part of the system its really just the inlet to the waterpump... but the "escape route" for the steam is thru the top of the radiator out the pressure relief of the radiator cap, and into the coolent jug where it then leaves thru the vented cap... so you want it heading back towards the radiator, not into the motor.
