wow I feel the change from stock to this, is there any dos and donts for the adjustable parts? how far can the adjust?

 

Adjust it until the rearend is centered and leave it alone.


-Mike

 

How does it work? How do you center the axle with it? I was wondering how they work

 

umm yea, how do you center the rearend? I adjusted it out 1 inch on both sides of the adjuster.

 

Use some type of thread locker to keep the adjuster nut from getting loose once you have it all set.

 

If you're at stock ride height, you can probably get away with setting it to the same length as your stock bar. It wouldn't hurt to check it anyway.

Mine is a double rod ended bar, so you might need to adapt these instructions. *NOTE* It is much easier to do this if your front and rear tires are the same width. This is how I did mine:

1. Wet the pavement on your street. Resist the urge to do a burnout.
2. Drive straight through the puddle, make note of how far off your rear tires track from the fronts. Measure this, write it down, along with whether they are too far left or right.
3. Jack up rear end, support with jack stands, remove rear wheels.
4. Lower rear axle, but leave jack just touching it.
5. Unbolt both ends of your panhard bar.
6. Loosen both jam nuts all the way.
7. Slip the bolts back through both ends of the bar, but don't replace the nuts yet.
8. Tape a piece of string to one of your brake rotors.
9. Tape a piece of cardboard to the floor under the string.
10. Hang a weight on the other end of the string. I used a large washer with a pen taped to it.
11. Make a mark on the cardboard once the weight is hanging straight down.
12. Use your measurements from step 2 to make a mark where the bob SHOULD be.
13. Twist the bar (or adjuster, if it's a single adjustable) until the bob is over the mark.
14. CAREFULLY remove the bolts, apply some thread lock (I use blue) to where the jam nuts will be and tighten the jam nuts down. Do this as best you can without moving the positions of the ends.
15. Replace the bolts, nuts, wheels (remove the bob from the rotor first McFly). Torque everything to spec. If I remember correctly, the nuts should be torqued to 80 ft-lbs OR the bolts to 55 ft-lbs, but double-check this.
16. Lower the car and run through your puddle again to double-check.

The way it works is, one end of the bar is threaded normally, and the other is reverse threaded. So if you turn the bar one way, it pulls both ends in, making the bar shorter. If you twist it the other way, it pushes both ends out, making it longer. One end bolts to the body and the other end bolts to the axle. So this effectively changes the offset of the rear axle.


-Mike

 

*bringing up an old thread*... so referring to the post above mine.. could you theoretically loosen the jam nuts and leave the bolts in the holes and just turn the bar by hand to adjust the bard out or in? or is it a must to remove one end.. also how the **** do you loosen those jam nuts?? i know im no hulk hogan but god damn i can practially lift myself off the ground trying to move those things

 

Im not going to go into how to measure but if you lift the rear by the pumpkin you can pretty easily turn the bar by hand.

 

thats what i thought.. and taking off those jam nuts... do you guys just use an open ended wrench?

 

For mine, open ended was all I could get on it. It is like 1 1/8 for the the jam nuts and 1 1/4 for the bar itself. I had to borrow from a truck mechanic as I didn't have anything bigger than a 13/16s. I think mine is a UMI though.

 

im gonna have to see if i can hook up a breaker bar or something to the wrench... its used so it might have loc tite on it already.. would WD40 or PBblaster take care of that?

 

To center mine I took a large nuts,tied them on a string,tape them to the bottom of the 1/4 in the center of the wheel well.crawled under the car and adjusted the panhard until it was the same on both sides.took about 20 minutes.

 

I taped a yard stick to each tire, centering it in the middle of the wheel. Measured from the stick to the quater panel on both sides then adjusted till it was centered. Took about the same length of time.

 

Lol, i just installed the bmr upper panhard relocation kit and will soon be installing the adj phb. Thats hilarious that us ay that cause i remember how hard it was... it took alot of umph but i ended up gettin it to loosen. It was sooo freakin hard tho, lol. I remember my friends laughing at me cause of how i positioned myself trying to get more torque behind it, lol.

 

I am thinking about buying this because I get some rub in hard corners with my 315's. I heard if you center the rear with one of these it will help with the 315's. Is this true?

Thanks!

 

that is correct.

 

If I took my car in to a professional alignment shop, would they be able to set it for me? I'm not sure what their policies are about working on aftermarket suspension equipment ...

 

 

Good info

 

nice writeup