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the correct way to install lifters?

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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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Default the correct way to install lifters?

I have some new COMP R lifters that need to go in...
how do I prep them for install (like put them in oil or something)

and what orientation do they need to be put in?

I want to make sure nothing is done wrong here
Thanks
Erik
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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Cleanem, Oil Them Up, Drop Them In, Roller Wheel Must Roll With Cam Lobe, Install Tray, Torque Down Bolt, Your Done. Just To Worn You Comp R Lifters A Very Particular On There Pre-load, So Becareful.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:26 AM
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thanks

about the preload- I do not plan on milling any head that I get...and I will run the stock gasket, so preload should remain around stock with a stock length PR, correct?

Erik
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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yea,before I installed lifters I let them soak in a bucket of oil overnight.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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thats what I wwas thinking...why not ya know!
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
thanks

about the preload- I do not plan on milling any head that I get...and I will run the stock gasket, so preload should remain around stock with a stock length PR, correct?

Erik
Actually, you might want to double check. Since your new cam will be ground on a core that is .050" smaller than the stock one (I am 99% sure this is the case), you will need pushrods that are longer to maintain the correct preload.
If I am wrong, someone please correct me.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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yeah I have the MS3 already in..the engine now is awaiting heads...
how do I measure the length I need...obviously I know that I need the PR length checker...but, what do I do, install the listed and trays...then the PR legth checker and the rocker, then turn the engine??
not sure, I want to have the correct pre load on all components

Erik
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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Ok heres what you do:
Make sure engine is at TDC on compression of the cylinder you are checking before you do any of this!
1. Install new lifters and all that.
2. Put pushrod length checker (set to the shortest length) in the pushrod hole and seat in lifter plunger.
3. Install rocker pedstal and arm and torque to proper foot lbs. (22 i think)
4. Lengthen pushrod checker until the checker has the rocker set to 0 lash and the plunger is not depressed AT ALL. ie. You want no play between the rocker tip and the vales stem and their should be no pressure on the lifter. The checker should be taught but not bound up.
5. Remove rocker arm.
6. Check the markings on the pushrod length checker. Add the desired preload to that measurement. (probably .080" with stock lifters)

Thats all you need to do man!
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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You don't want to retain stock pre-load with Comp R's. There designed to work with about .010" pre-load. Stock preload is much more. I'm not sure how wild you'r going on your build, but stock replacement Comps (850-16) may have been the better choice. Comp R's are picky and seem to be pretty noisy because of the light preload setting. I'd deffinatlly measue with a checker and set it up for .010"-.020" max.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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I Agree, Try Not To Use Alot Of Preload With The Comp R Stuff, They Lifters Aren't Set Up For It, And If It Is To Much Preload You Will Eventually Pop Out The Plunger Retainer Clips, And If You Tell Comp You Had More Than .005 Of Preload, They Will Have A Cow. I Personally Don't Use The Comp R's In My Engines Because Of This Situation. I Use Cranes Myself. 850-16 Would Have Been The Best Choice For You, But You Gotta Work With What You Got Now.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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not neccesarily...they come in tomorrow UPS....maybe comp will make it an easy swap...

we shall see...
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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I always cut the top off a new bottle of oil and throw em in there and shake them around a little bit and let them sit overnight. Then I put four of them in teh tray and install it, much easier then putting them in the lifter bore and trying to get them to line up with the slots on the lifter tray. Rocker tq is 22 ft-lbs starting from the inside out, rotate the crank 180 and retorque, there is a mroe **** way to do it but this gets the job done when used with a dab of red loc tite, I do all my cam swaps this way and not a problem yet.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Rollers down!

You can soak them in oil, but it never worked for me. They always took a few gut wrenching seconds to pump up anyway.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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ok so basically pop the lifters into the bottom of the trays the right way, and set the tray down into the hole, then torque? will the lifters eventually seat correctly once the rod is installed??
Erik
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
ok so basically pop the lifters into the bottom of the trays the right way, and set the tray down into the hole, then torque? will the lifters eventually seat correctly once the rod is installed??
Erik
absolutely. Youve got a minimum of your springs seat pressure tires 1.7 pushing each lifter down against the lobe of the cam. Theyll seat. With those kinds of forces (especially at 6500+ rpm) I dont think the tray is doing much. I think its just there for cam swaps
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:06 PM
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haha yeah i figued....rollers down for sure....i aint that brain dead hahah

thanks a lot all! I will get some comp OEM replacements...I didnt realie the R's were tricky...just thought they were beefier...

Erik
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:15 PM
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yeah i didnt know that about the comp rs.. thank god i just got replacements
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 01:29 PM
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so comp R lifters or GM high performance lifters or just GM lifters for high lift???
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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GM replacements will work and are cheap. But the new GMPP Caddy lifters or Comp 850s would both be a good upgrade at about ~$200-225.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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I still like the good old eaton type encapsulated GM lifter. You can get them dirt cheap. Although the new GM racing lifter from the Cadillacs do look nice.
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