What kind of driveshaft loop are you guys running. I don't know if my slp will fit

 

alright after reading a little im still confused, im planning on building my t/ds myself since no shop in town will do a over the axel set-up ive already got into 2 arguments with shop workers saying its not possible. anyway my question is my car has the slp suspension option installed on it, not realk sure what this means but what other suspension items will give me more clearance for my pipes?

 

seriously just go under the axel, its the same clearence with less headache and less bends

 

My custom built TD's went over the axle w/o ANY problems.

 

Except for the fact that the exhaust moves whenever the axle moves...which isn't good to say the least.

You would have to disconnect the exhaust just to jack the rear of the car up, not very feasable.

 

why would the exhaust move when the axle moves? its not attached to the axle. and why couldnt you jack the rear end up? it doesnt run under the pumpkin.

 

When you jack up the car it unloads the rear suspension and it will lower the rear axle down onto the exhaust. Makes doing a brake job or changing tires/wheels a pain in the ***..over the axle is the way to go unless you like extra work every time you lift your car in the air.

 

Exactly what I was saying. Not to mention the decreased ground clearance of having exhaust pipes running underneath the axle, and the movement of the exhaust every time you hit a bump.

 

yup about the extra work, but not really with running them under and loosing ground clearence. I've NEVER scraped them becuase of them being to low becuase i ran them under the axle. i do scrap though once in a long while the mufflers becuase the car is so low....ebaich springs SUCK!

 

Jack the car up from the pumpkin/place jack stands under the axles, problem solved.

 

usually on under the axle setups, you have 3 bolt flanges you can take the tail pipes off so you can get the rear end out. if your that god damn lazy that you cant take 8 bolts out to remove the tailpipes just to put your car on a lift, then you deserve to not have a TD setup. spend the extra 200 bucks to have it ran over the axle if you dont like it. but under the axle is the most cost effective and easiest, least problematic way of running out the back TD's.

 

well i cant really crawl under the car to get to those, again the car is to damn low

 

My exhaust system for my 98 TA consists of the following.

• Stock manifold gaskets
• Stage 8 locking header bolts w/ clips/retainers installed
• QTP 1-3/4” headers w/ HVMC
• Front O2 sensors only
• 24" O2 sensor extensions
• Magnaflow 3” Metallic-Cat converters (59959)
• Bassani Aft-Cat stainless 2.5” dual exhaust system (5798RS5)
• Corsa clone tips (actual size, not the smaller clones)

I installed poly motor mounts and headers when I did H/C/etc. This Bassani system is designed to hook up to the stock manifolds/cats on 01-02 LS1 f-bodies. A small shop, MaxRevs, installed the rest of the exhaust since I have no welder. The system reduces from 3” to 2.5” after the cats. They also built a couple simple spacers so the stock tunnel brace could be used and installed an extra pre-cat O2 bung. I provided most of the materials.

I think the shop's workmanship is very good. Welds are clean; system is tucked pretty well; it can be removed relatively easily; and they took good care of my car. They even scanned my DTC’s and cleared them for me at no additional charge. Minimum ground clearance is ~3.5” at the driver side cat. My suspension setup is still stock WS6. I cut ½” off two band clamp bolts to ease my mind (catch, drag, rip) and may tweak the RH tailpipe to move that tip inboard ~3/8”.

The header install was uneventful. I had the car setting very high on ramps, which themselve sat on multiple layers of wood blocks. The only issue I had with the QTP headers was ~1/16” clearance with the k-member on the RH side. It would bang occasionally after the exhaust install. I was able to improve clearance to ~3/16”-1/4” by cutting a small slice out of the k-member using my reciprocating saw with the exhaust installed. I have noticed no banging in ~100 miles of driving since.

I have heads and a 224/228 110lsa cam. The car does not sound like stock, but is not terribly loud at idle. It definitely sounds healthy. It really growls when I get on it.

The total cost, parts and labor, for the entire exhaust, manifold gaskets to tips, was $2377. I got $123 for my used cats;$40 for my stock manifolds; and $35 for the tips that came with the Bassani system. Taking this into account the adjusted cost is $2179. That is a lot, but to be expected for a complete, stainless, mandrel bent, catted (high flow metallic-substrate), dual exhaust system.

Here are the pics and video. The video is low resolution and monaural; the best I can do.

 

best looking setup i seen so far excelent fit and finish,might have to drive up get mine done one day.

 

will the bassani true dual setup fit under a relocated tunnel brace mounted torque arm?

 

Got some new exhaust made up yesterday: 2.5" duals over the axle with bullets. I specifically told the exhaust guy NOT to put tips on it, just tuck up some turndowns in there. So what did he do? He put some nice ugly square tips on that are not even centered or anything. I also told him to try to put an H pipe in there as well, but he didn't. He wasn't there when I picked the car up, so I couldn't have a chat with him about it. He did quote me 200-250 for the system, so I suppose he didn't want to do more work then he had to. Everything else on it looks decent though, clearance is good. It could be tucked up a little higher in some places, but oh well. I haven't paid for it yet, and he better not try to charge me for the ugly tips. I will be calling him again to ask why he did it the way he did.

In short, it has potential to sound good with some kind of crossover (H or X) Right now, it sounds somewhat like a truck, "raps" in lower rpms. At idle, the right side makes a whistling type noise, while the left side sounds normal. Pretty sure thats from the lack of a crossover as well.

Anyway heres some pics and a video clip..

 

I guess the 2 setups on this page answer my question about cats and true duals. I am planning on a before the axle setup with cats, anyone run this?

 

i dont know if anyone has mentioned this or not, i didnt read thru this entire topic.
but, i had a Global West TracLink torque arm ~$500 (awesome piece btw), Summit 3" universal duals with xpipe ~$100, FlowTech 3" afterburner mufflers (which are fullsize mufflers) ~$40 each. and i had absolutely no clearance issues with that torque arm. and the Afterburner mufflers are reversable to aid in fitment.
this was on my old LT1 car

it sounded absolutely amazing!! i wish i had a sound bite to share

 

What is the absolute quietest muffler you can put on your TD's? I have the TSP system with spiral flows and can not stand the interior noise.

 

run them to the back. it'll take the noise down ALOT. my friend had the cam i have now (we traded MS4 for 226 cam) and when i had the MS4 in mine runing to the back it was alot quieter than his dumped before the axle.