Sheet Metal Intake
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: central fl
Sheet Metal Intake I am wanting to build a sheet metal intake for my LT1.
why
1. i like the looks
2. i have the equipment to do it
3. as a project when i get home from work at night
4. because i can
im not making huge power (450-500 at the wheels) and i am not wanting to lose low end power and torque. So from what i can gather that automatically calls for a longer runner.
things im looking for
1. a learning source (free preferred)
2. flanges to mount to heads
3. any insight any of yall might have
please if yall your going to say is your going to fail you cant do it dont bother because you will be ignored
why
1. i like the looks
2. i have the equipment to do it
3. as a project when i get home from work at night
4. because i can
im not making huge power (450-500 at the wheels) and i am not wanting to lose low end power and torque. So from what i can gather that automatically calls for a longer runner.
things im looking for
1. a learning source (free preferred)
2. flanges to mount to heads
3. any insight any of yall might have
please if yall your going to say is your going to fail you cant do it dont bother because you will be ignored
Cool project, but it's time consuming. Gonna have to build it off of the engine.
I am no expert, but it seems to me the key things to focus on are plenum shape and possibly volume, and runner dimensions and taper.
There are some computer programs out there that try to calculate this kind of stuff, so maybe if you find someone willing to help you out, you may get some rough guidlines to build on. I would think it's a good idea to err on the small side with this.
I am no expert, but it seems to me the key things to focus on are plenum shape and possibly volume, and runner dimensions and taper.
There are some computer programs out there that try to calculate this kind of stuff, so maybe if you find someone willing to help you out, you may get some rough guidlines to build on. I would think it's a good idea to err on the small side with this.
Carve a hardwood buck in the shape of the interior of the runner. Download "Cone Layout" for $30.00, and make a cone from measurements taken from the circumference of the ends of the buck. Then force the cone (I assume it will be soft aluminum) onto the buck to give it the right shape.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: central fl
Carve a hardwood buck in the shape of the interior of the runner. Download "Cone Layout" for $30.00, and make a cone from measurements taken from the circumference of the ends of the buck. Then force the cone (I assume it will be soft aluminum) onto the buck to give it the right shape.
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On The Tree
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From: honolulu
maybe "borrow" the design (intake runner length, diameter, volume, etc.) from a know good performing intake and make a duplicate. i think it would bealot easier to design yours after an existing design. remember, dont re-invent the wheel, just perfect it
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From: Maryland
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: central fl
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From: Upstate NY
My thoughts exactly.
F3RR3T (Is that "ferret" in vanity-plate lingo?), please don't use stainless steel, especially 3/16 wall. Use aluminum.
FWIW, you could taper rectangular tubing with 2 pie-cuts and two weld seams.
The important thing is runner length and taper, with length being by far the most important. It's even more important that the length be correct for the harmonic you are using for intake tuning (ramming). If you don't understand the last sentence, get somone who does to design your runner length and shape and get someone who knows how to do cams which will compliment the runners. Preferably the same person should do both.
Good luck.
Jon
F3RR3T (Is that "ferret" in vanity-plate lingo?), please don't use stainless steel, especially 3/16 wall. Use aluminum.
FWIW, you could taper rectangular tubing with 2 pie-cuts and two weld seams.
The important thing is runner length and taper, with length being by far the most important. It's even more important that the length be correct for the harmonic you are using for intake tuning (ramming). If you don't understand the last sentence, get somone who does to design your runner length and shape and get someone who knows how to do cams which will compliment the runners. Preferably the same person should do both.
Good luck.
Jon
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: central fl
My thoughts exactly.
F3RR3T (Is that "ferret" in vanity-plate lingo?), please don't use stainless steel, especially 3/16 wall. Use aluminum.
FWIW, you could taper rectangular tubing with 2 pie-cuts and two weld seams.
The important thing is runner length and taper, with length being by far the most important. It's even more important that the length be correct for the harmonic you are using for intake tuning (ramming). If you don't understand the last sentence, get somone who does to design your runner length and shape and get someone who knows how to do cams which will compliment the runners. Preferably the same person should do both.
Good luck.
Jon
F3RR3T (Is that "ferret" in vanity-plate lingo?), please don't use stainless steel, especially 3/16 wall. Use aluminum.
FWIW, you could taper rectangular tubing with 2 pie-cuts and two weld seams.
The important thing is runner length and taper, with length being by far the most important. It's even more important that the length be correct for the harmonic you are using for intake tuning (ramming). If you don't understand the last sentence, get somone who does to design your runner length and shape and get someone who knows how to do cams which will compliment the runners. Preferably the same person should do both.
Good luck.
Jon
only reason for the stainless is i have s crap load of it
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 304
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From: central fl
would be nice i will be spraying a 400-500 shot down the road when i build the bottom end
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Nice Project, but it's a tough one Hello Forum,
I became a member because of this post... and others I have seen
I make sheetmetal products including intakes and valve covers. Not that I would ever try to convince anyone to not try something, but keep in mind it is challenging to make a good intake. The preperation and having the equipment to make the parts is the bigest part of the process. Think it through, plan and plan again. Consider all possibilities. How will you machine/square up the intake once it's complete. How do you ensure that everything is square. Those are just a few of the things you are up against.
With that said, it is possible and I am willing to help you if you plan on using aluminum. It is the best choice for your intake, for many reasons. I would be willing to make your rails that mount to the head on my cnc and show you some runner ideas. I can cnc the runners but it is a lot of work to get them right. It's better to fabricate them. I can make them for you or show you how. They can be a tad bit tricky also. I do NOT have the ls1's drawn up but I can do that and make them.
So, there's a start. Let me know if I can help
Allen
I became a member because of this post... and others I have seen
I make sheetmetal products including intakes and valve covers. Not that I would ever try to convince anyone to not try something, but keep in mind it is challenging to make a good intake. The preperation and having the equipment to make the parts is the bigest part of the process. Think it through, plan and plan again. Consider all possibilities. How will you machine/square up the intake once it's complete. How do you ensure that everything is square. Those are just a few of the things you are up against.
With that said, it is possible and I am willing to help you if you plan on using aluminum. It is the best choice for your intake, for many reasons. I would be willing to make your rails that mount to the head on my cnc and show you some runner ideas. I can cnc the runners but it is a lot of work to get them right. It's better to fabricate them. I can make them for you or show you how. They can be a tad bit tricky also. I do NOT have the ls1's drawn up but I can do that and make them.
So, there's a start. Let me know if I can help
Allen
Last edited by camaroracer; Jan 25, 2010 at 02:39 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
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I just seen you want a LT1. I assume it will be injected?
3/16 (.1875) stainless is NOT the material to use. Most sheetmetal intakes are made from .09 aluminum for the runners and plenum with the rails and throtle body mount being thicker aluminum. This would not be for a boost application.
The runners are actually a compound angle, meaning they taper from both sides. Ummm, like a funnel. Just thought I would add that
Allen
3/16 (.1875) stainless is NOT the material to use. Most sheetmetal intakes are made from .09 aluminum for the runners and plenum with the rails and throtle body mount being thicker aluminum. This would not be for a boost application.
The runners are actually a compound angle, meaning they taper from both sides. Ummm, like a funnel. Just thought I would add that
Allen
Last edited by camaroracer; Jan 25, 2010 at 02:43 PM.
