FAST intake...
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From: Winchester, TN
FAST intake... I put this here because most people will always say "bigger is better" and that is not the case as we all know on many occasions.
I am in the process of upgrading to a FAST intake/TB. My current setup is..
226/228 .588.588 114
317 heads ported/mile.. I am going to be buying a better set of heads.. I will be getting something equal to AFRs or the like.
Kooks long tubes/ORY/cutout/magnaflow
March under drive pulley
SLP 160* stat
GM 3.73 gear
PTC4000 2.4str
Full weight
Track times...
Consistent 7.3s@92mph 1.50-1.52 short times... DA 2000+.. Had some traction problems but will be getting that worked out soon.
I'm wondering if a ported 90/90 will suffice or if I should go ahead and get a 102... Money really isn't a concern. I have choices from regular 90/90 all the way to the 102.. With ported 92/92 etc etc being in between.
As you can see by the track times my car has a ton of low-mid range grunt and dies off up top. I'm trying to balance it so I don't lose anything down low/mid range and pick me up a nice bit on the back end of the 1/8.
I'm shooting for 7.0s@94 or so once I get the intake/retune and suspension dialed in.
Any opinions are appreciated... And please don't just put 102mm, I am looking for an educated answer. Meaning you would have a reason as to why I should go with that.
Thanks!
I am in the process of upgrading to a FAST intake/TB. My current setup is..
226/228 .588.588 114
317 heads ported/mile.. I am going to be buying a better set of heads.. I will be getting something equal to AFRs or the like.
Kooks long tubes/ORY/cutout/magnaflow
March under drive pulley
SLP 160* stat
GM 3.73 gear
PTC4000 2.4str
Full weight
Track times...
Consistent 7.3s@92mph 1.50-1.52 short times... DA 2000+.. Had some traction problems but will be getting that worked out soon.
I'm wondering if a ported 90/90 will suffice or if I should go ahead and get a 102... Money really isn't a concern. I have choices from regular 90/90 all the way to the 102.. With ported 92/92 etc etc being in between.
As you can see by the track times my car has a ton of low-mid range grunt and dies off up top. I'm trying to balance it so I don't lose anything down low/mid range and pick me up a nice bit on the back end of the 1/8.
I'm shooting for 7.0s@94 or so once I get the intake/retune and suspension dialed in.
Any opinions are appreciated... And please don't just put 102mm, I am looking for an educated answer. Meaning you would have a reason as to why I should go with that.
Thanks!
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From: Winchester, TN
I am just wondering which one would give me the best performance gain. Of course the 102mm is going to allow more air flow but I don't know if it will give me the best gain all the way across the power curve, better ET.
I honestly don't know the CR. The heads were on the car when I bought them. I will probably have an 11:1 or close when I get the new heads.
26X10X15 Hoosiers..
I plan on it taking me into 6.8ish territory... Keep in mind though, my DA I get is not the best.
Most people jump to the biggest they can get their hands on.. I am thinking a ported 92mm will be the best but just wanted other opinions... Tossing ides around.
I would get the 102mm intake and just run a 92mm throttle body on it. You wont flow enough air to require a 102mm TB.
Here is what people just cant wrap their minds around. The size of the throttle body could be 300mm and it wouldn't affect full throttle power. The runner leading to the cylinder is what determines "too big or too small". NOT the throttle body!!! The runners make power with differing length and taper, etc to change flow and velocity.
The throttle body is simply a restriction to the eight runners. If your engine only needs a 92mm, just run a 92mm on the 102mm.
I'm running a 90mm DBW on my LSXR 102mm
Here is what people just cant wrap their minds around. The size of the throttle body could be 300mm and it wouldn't affect full throttle power. The runner leading to the cylinder is what determines "too big or too small". NOT the throttle body!!! The runners make power with differing length and taper, etc to change flow and velocity.
The throttle body is simply a restriction to the eight runners. If your engine only needs a 92mm, just run a 92mm on the 102mm.
I'm running a 90mm DBW on my LSXR 102mm
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From: Winchester, TN
I would get the 102mm intake and just run a 92mm throttle body on it. You wont flow enough air to require a 102mm TB.
Here is what people just cant wrap their minds around. The size of the throttle body could be 300mm and it wouldn't affect full throttle power. The runner leading to the cylinder is what determines "too big or too small". NOT the throttle body!!! The runners make power with differing length and taper, etc to change flow and velocity.
The throttle body is simply a restriction to the eight runners. If your engine only needs a 92mm, just run a 92mm on the 102mm.
I'm running a 90mm DBW on my LSXR 102mm
Here is what people just cant wrap their minds around. The size of the throttle body could be 300mm and it wouldn't affect full throttle power. The runner leading to the cylinder is what determines "too big or too small". NOT the throttle body!!! The runners make power with differing length and taper, etc to change flow and velocity.
The throttle body is simply a restriction to the eight runners. If your engine only needs a 92mm, just run a 92mm on the 102mm.
I'm running a 90mm DBW on my LSXR 102mm
If I understand you correctly. My power is not going to change whether I have a 92mm or a 102mm intake... As well as TB...?
Hope I understood that correctly.
Your still not getting it. The throttle body size doesn't make power, the runners do. The only time you make more power with the throttle body size is when it cant flow enough air to feed ALL the individual runners.
Think of it this way, all 8 cylinders are asking for air, if the throttle body can not flow enough to feed all eight, THEN a bigger throttle body will make more power. Think 75mm TB, too small for 500hp.
Now for runners, think individual runner intake (super expensive). The power they make and where is determined by the taper and length of the stacks you put on them. So there is and IR setup inside the intake, longer = torquier but loose power at high RPM... shorter = high RPM power and loss of torque down low. This is what determines too big or too small.
If you can get away with running a 90mm TB, go for it! Just get the 102mm intake, you'll have room to upgrade later and have the latest technology and runners now!
Think of it this way, all 8 cylinders are asking for air, if the throttle body can not flow enough to feed all eight, THEN a bigger throttle body will make more power. Think 75mm TB, too small for 500hp.
Now for runners, think individual runner intake (super expensive). The power they make and where is determined by the taper and length of the stacks you put on them. So there is and IR setup inside the intake, longer = torquier but loose power at high RPM... shorter = high RPM power and loss of torque down low. This is what determines too big or too small.
If you can get away with running a 90mm TB, go for it! Just get the 102mm intake, you'll have room to upgrade later and have the latest technology and runners now!
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From: Winchester, TN
Your still not getting it. The throttle body size doesn't make power, the runners do. The only time you make more power with the throttle body size is when it cant flow enough air to feed ALL the individual runners.
Think of it this way, all 8 cylinders are asking for air, if the throttle body can not flow enough to feed all eight, THEN a bigger throttle body will make more power. Think 75mm TB, too small for 500hp.
Now for runners, think individual runner intake (super expensive). The power they make and where is determined by the taper and length of the stacks you put on them. So there is and IR setup inside the intake, longer = torquier but loose power at high RPM... shorter = high RPM power and loss of torque down low. This is what determines too big or too small.
If you can get away with running a 90mm TB, go for it! Just get the 102mm intake, you'll have room to upgrade later and have the latest technology and runners now!
Think of it this way, all 8 cylinders are asking for air, if the throttle body can not flow enough to feed all eight, THEN a bigger throttle body will make more power. Think 75mm TB, too small for 500hp.
Now for runners, think individual runner intake (super expensive). The power they make and where is determined by the taper and length of the stacks you put on them. So there is and IR setup inside the intake, longer = torquier but loose power at high RPM... shorter = high RPM power and loss of torque down low. This is what determines too big or too small.
If you can get away with running a 90mm TB, go for it! Just get the 102mm intake, you'll have room to upgrade later and have the latest technology and runners now!
Thanks for breaking that down. That makes a lot more sense now! That alone gives me reason to make my final decision! EXACTLY what I was looking for. Unless someone has another side, I will be going 102/92. Another question... If I do go 102/92 should I upgrade the MAF and lid as well or just leave them? I would like to squeeze every bit I can out of it!
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Its the exact same theory there too. The runners ask for air, the throttle body supplys it. If the throttle body is large enough, but the MAF now "may be" the restriction for supplying air to the throttle body....so it can supply the runners.
With that said. Everyone gains power going to the FAST, even with the stock MAF, you can swap the MAF/Lid down the road if you want or do it all at once. Im running a stock MAF, but my system uses the 85mm MAF. Ive tested a 500hp 6.0L and going from an 85mm MAF to a 100+MM MAF gained a solid 10hp. I dont think it would do the same for you. If you can pick up an 85mm MAF for cheap do it. Tuning for a new MAF is simple as pie if you have tuning software and a wideband.
With that said. Everyone gains power going to the FAST, even with the stock MAF, you can swap the MAF/Lid down the road if you want or do it all at once. Im running a stock MAF, but my system uses the 85mm MAF. Ive tested a 500hp 6.0L and going from an 85mm MAF to a 100+MM MAF gained a solid 10hp. I dont think it would do the same for you. If you can pick up an 85mm MAF for cheap do it. Tuning for a new MAF is simple as pie if you have tuning software and a wideband.
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Verdad Gallardo you can buy a fast 90 for around $500.00, save your money for something
that will make your car faster/quicker. i hate these 1 part wonder builds LOL.
that will make your car faster/quicker. i hate these 1 part wonder builds LOL.
Last edited by one fast zo6; Apr 17, 2010 at 02:11 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Winchester, TN
Its the exact same theory there too. The runners ask for air, the throttle body supplys it. If the throttle body is large enough, but the MAF now "may be" the restriction for supplying air to the throttle body....so it can supply the runners.
With that said. Everyone gains power going to the FAST, even with the stock MAF, you can swap the MAF/Lid down the road if you want or do it all at once. Im running a stock MAF, but my system uses the 85mm MAF. Ive tested a 500hp 6.0L and going from an 85mm MAF to a 100+MM MAF gained a solid 10hp. I dont think it would do the same for you. If you can pick up an 85mm MAF for cheap do it. Tuning for a new MAF is simple as pie if you have tuning software and a wideband.
With that said. Everyone gains power going to the FAST, even with the stock MAF, you can swap the MAF/Lid down the road if you want or do it all at once. Im running a stock MAF, but my system uses the 85mm MAF. Ive tested a 500hp 6.0L and going from an 85mm MAF to a 100+MM MAF gained a solid 10hp. I dont think it would do the same for you. If you can pick up an 85mm MAF for cheap do it. Tuning for a new MAF is simple as pie if you have tuning software and a wideband.
I'm not worried about the money part. The next purchase will be a nice set of heads, the set I have is getting the job done for now just fine. A 102/92 should give me a solid 20-25Rwhp increase.
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you can't have a badass setup by just buying the parts that make the most hp (ex. heads/cam) You have to buy the simple **** as well to make it complete. Every one part has its place, and you're going to want to make sure that part is the right one/worth the money.
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From: Winchester, TN
I can't just throw a setup together and hope for 6s in my kind of DA with a small cam. I am lucky to see a DA of 1500+, I am going to have to actually think about the setup. My goal is 6.8 in the 1/8..
Thankfully sweets10 explained that perfectly to me!
And that is why I put it here instead of another section, I wanted a reason, not just "do 102 mm because it is big. 
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A few other options for you are the Edelbrock proflo XT (tall and you will have to cut your cowl) but if power is your goal and you have the money, look at the Harrop Hurricane (8 individual throttle bodies and insane power gains across the whole rpm range)
I have never had my car on a dyno, been all street tuned, I went with the proflo XT and the butt dyno could tell a big gain over the LS6 intake from mid rpm all the way up past 7,000rpms. But I did have to cut a hole in the GTO hood to clear the intake.
I have never had my car on a dyno, been all street tuned, I went with the proflo XT and the butt dyno could tell a big gain over the LS6 intake from mid rpm all the way up past 7,000rpms. But I did have to cut a hole in the GTO hood to clear the intake.
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Summit Racing price matched and I got the intake for $365. You'll also need aftermarket fuel rails.
From what I understand on the F-bodies you run into a problem hitting the cowl, not the hood. I've been "told" that you need to lose or relocate the passenger side wiper. Here is a pick with just the hole and hood closed to give you a better idea of how it sits in the GTO
From what I understand on the F-bodies you run into a problem hitting the cowl, not the hood. I've been "told" that you need to lose or relocate the passenger side wiper. Here is a pick with just the hole and hood closed to give you a better idea of how it sits in the GTO
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From: Winchester, TN
Summit Racing price matched and I got the intake for $365. You'll also need aftermarket fuel rails.
From what I understand on the F-bodies you run into a problem hitting the cowl, not the hood. I've been "told" that you need to lose or relocate the passenger side wiper. Here is a pick with just the hole and hood closed to give you a better idea of how it sits in the GTO
From what I understand on the F-bodies you run into a problem hitting the cowl, not the hood. I've been "told" that you need to lose or relocate the passenger side wiper. Here is a pick with just the hole and hood closed to give you a better idea of how it sits in the GTO
I might look into that.. Thanks
fast intake Has anyone ever tried to shorten the runners on a fast intake. Seems like you could get some better top end out of it. I would rather someone else try it first and see the results before I risked making my own worse than it already is.
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From: Winchester, TN
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