C02 used for a cooling agent?
C02 used for a cooling agent? Just wondering if compressed C02 has ever been used for a cooling agent on components? Obviously it would have to be used sparingly but in theory, could it be succesful? I was thinking something rigged to brake systems for emergency's where brakes fade too much not slowing it down enough but with C02 cooling them, it could possibly bring some bite back. Might sound pretty stupid, but just wondering if it were possible.
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Just get plenty of air to the disks in the first place! make sure your disks are big enough and that the pad compound is right for what you are doing. If you have proper brake fade entering a corner at high speed things happen VERY fast.
Water cooling had been used for a long time in some race (road race) applications. again VERY effective at cooling but this is ultimate high end stuff (look at super touring cars of the mid to lates 90's for examples).
Water cooling had been used for a long time in some race (road race) applications. again VERY effective at cooling but this is ultimate high end stuff (look at super touring cars of the mid to lates 90's for examples).
cooling I have seen products such as "Cryo2" do an ok job of keeping IAT's down. As far as brakes go I would not mess with any compressed air and my brakes as far as cooling I would stick to duct work. I read once somewhere that stopping from 65-70 to zero miles an hour in a "panic situation" generates enough heat from one rotor to instantly boil 12 gallons of water. True or not in a race style brake setup you are hitting potentially red-hot parts with a subzero vapor not a happy time for the hats and rotors, interesting thought though.
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I have seen products such as "Cryo2" do an ok job of keeping IAT's down. As far as brakes go I would not mess with any compressed air and my brakes as far as cooling I would stick to duct work. I read once somewhere that stopping from 65-70 to zero miles an hour in a "panic situation" generates enough heat from one rotor to instantly boil 12 gallons of water. True or not in a race style brake setup you are hitting potentially red-hot parts with a subzero vapor not a happy time for the hats and rotors, interesting thought though.
Dont forget alot of the heat is absorbed into the hub. This can put added stress on the wheel bearings also.
Chris.
Chillin......... I have been thinking practical application for this and have come up with a few Ideas but I think the added weight would probably topple the horsepower gains any way here goes. An integrated "blow through" intercooler to cool your roots/whipple/magnacharger housing/intake manifold down with actual ports through the blower after back to back passes you know kind of cooling from the inside out. The other would be to cool the fuel/air mixture kind of like the cool cans they used in the good old days which this topic is beat to death. Only cooling both the air and the intake charge is the difference I would make and you would have to be careful not to chill the air to the point that it freezes the fuel. There is absolutely no denying that the LS platforms all run better with cold air in there lungs, just loose thoughts running around in my brain space.
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I have been thinking practical application for this and have come up with a few Ideas but I think the added weight would probably topple the horsepower gains any way here goes. An integrated "blow through" intercooler to cool your roots/whipple/magnacharger housing/intake manifold down with actual ports through the blower after back to back passes you know kind of cooling from the inside out. The other would be to cool the fuel/air mixture kind of like the cool cans they used in the good old days which this topic is beat to death. Only cooling both the air and the intake charge is the difference I would make and you would have to be careful not to chill the air to the point that it freezes the fuel. There is absolutely no denying that the LS platforms all run better with cold air in there lungs, just loose thoughts running around in my brain space.
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Best thing to keep your brakes at optimal temp is using the right parts combination and effective duct work to feed cool air. I can only see things going wrong by adding 50lbs of bottle, compressed gas, lines, regulators, and switches to shoot sub-zero gas onto glowing red brakes....
Race bikes and race cars use water injection to cool their brakes with ambient temp water. Cold water can cause damage and Murphy's Law tells us damage will happen coming out of a long straight into a sharp turn lol.
If you really, really want to spray your brakes though, use distilled water through a window washer pump, then whatever cheap line, to a mister nozzle a couple inches away from your rotor. You want the nozzle that sprays a mist, not a jet. The mist will vaporize immediately on contact and that is what you want. You WANT the water to absorb heat from the rotors/pads and immediately vaporize but not collect and condense back into liquid.
Race bikes and race cars use water injection to cool their brakes with ambient temp water. Cold water can cause damage and Murphy's Law tells us damage will happen coming out of a long straight into a sharp turn lol.
If you really, really want to spray your brakes though, use distilled water through a window washer pump, then whatever cheap line, to a mister nozzle a couple inches away from your rotor. You want the nozzle that sprays a mist, not a jet. The mist will vaporize immediately on contact and that is what you want. You WANT the water to absorb heat from the rotors/pads and immediately vaporize but not collect and condense back into liquid.
