H Beam Vs I Beam pro's and con's
#22
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My Biggest concern is that everyone has an opinion. I hear 99% of people tell me to run an i beam but for what if an h will meet the needs? Then people say an i beam is good for 8,000 rpm.
What if I currently spin my Callies Compstar $600 dollar rods to 8,1-8,200 on the regular?
They have been 9,000 on burnouts and free revs(before I switched heads)
I am currently trapping 174mph(1,280whp) and have taken my setup to 1,350whp on the dyno since. Im not too confident how much farther these rods will go or if they will eventually give up do to fatigue.
My target goal would eventually be 1,500 whp and probably never more. If so I would need a lot more upgrades then just rods. Id need a stronger trans, crank, possible orings and copper gaskets, a lot more fuel, etc.
I dont mind buying the I Beam if it is the end all rod from Callies. Id just hate to waste $500 more dollars to buy a rod that wont do anything more for me.
As I stated, they both use the same rod bolt and the h beam is slightly lighter. If in fact it sheds oil and the entire rotating assembly moves easier because of it. It seems it would be easier on everything else.
I like to hear the results and ideas from those that have done more then I have or will ever do. It is a great learning experience.
I built this car in my garage from the ground up thanks to the help of others trial and error. The only thing I have bought for it is an fti level 5 trans because Ive had a few issues in trans in the past and Id rather not take it in and out lol.
What if I currently spin my Callies Compstar $600 dollar rods to 8,1-8,200 on the regular?
They have been 9,000 on burnouts and free revs(before I switched heads)
I am currently trapping 174mph(1,280whp) and have taken my setup to 1,350whp on the dyno since. Im not too confident how much farther these rods will go or if they will eventually give up do to fatigue.
My target goal would eventually be 1,500 whp and probably never more. If so I would need a lot more upgrades then just rods. Id need a stronger trans, crank, possible orings and copper gaskets, a lot more fuel, etc.
I dont mind buying the I Beam if it is the end all rod from Callies. Id just hate to waste $500 more dollars to buy a rod that wont do anything more for me.
As I stated, they both use the same rod bolt and the h beam is slightly lighter. If in fact it sheds oil and the entire rotating assembly moves easier because of it. It seems it would be easier on everything else.
I like to hear the results and ideas from those that have done more then I have or will ever do. It is a great learning experience.
I built this car in my garage from the ground up thanks to the help of others trial and error. The only thing I have bought for it is an fti level 5 trans because Ive had a few issues in trans in the past and Id rather not take it in and out lol.
#23
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Hi KCS, yes more good tech.
I too agree with your lite weight oil report.
We found HP increases with "0" weight oils.
The reason for that quest was different.
That reason was for Oil Flow increase, to remove heat form the bearing areas AND to allow a TIGHTER bearing fit required for Engine Life Rules.
Most racing engine are on a "lease" with warrenty of use in time/miles.
These engines WILL NOT TURN by hand unless the block/oil temps are brought into operation specification.
These temps are recorded by the EMS with operation condition violation VOIDING the life warranty OR adding rebuild costs.
Lance
I too agree with your lite weight oil report.
We found HP increases with "0" weight oils.
The reason for that quest was different.
That reason was for Oil Flow increase, to remove heat form the bearing areas AND to allow a TIGHTER bearing fit required for Engine Life Rules.
Most racing engine are on a "lease" with warrenty of use in time/miles.
These engines WILL NOT TURN by hand unless the block/oil temps are brought into operation specification.
These temps are recorded by the EMS with operation condition violation VOIDING the life warranty OR adding rebuild costs.
Lance