Engine failure due to wristpin thickness?
Has anyone here blown an engine because of a wristpin failure?
I just found out that my 750whp setup (shooting for over 800 this summer) only has the 8620 (.150 thick I think from what I could find) wrist pins. Now I'm a little worried about that. When I built the car I wasn't expecting to make this kind of power being my first turbo build and I got my rotating assembly used (new in the box from a friend) so here I am haha.
What have you made on stock wristpins?
I just found out that my 750whp setup (shooting for over 800 this summer) only has the 8620 (.150 thick I think from what I could find) wrist pins. Now I'm a little worried about that. When I built the car I wasn't expecting to make this kind of power being my first turbo build and I got my rotating assembly used (new in the box from a friend) so here I am haha.
What have you made on stock wristpins?
I’ve seen it happen. I think the pins were .110” thick and not meant for a power adder application. I think a lot of “piston failures” can be attributed to the pin flexing or just not having enough clearance and getting stuck in the pin bore.
I think Wiseco recommends heavy wall pins on combos that are going to make over 700hp or so. I have seen engines do just fine with more than that and standard pins, so I know it’s not necessary, but still a good recommendation.
I think Wiseco recommends heavy wall pins on combos that are going to make over 700hp or so. I have seen engines do just fine with more than that and standard pins, so I know it’s not necessary, but still a good recommendation.
Yeah, if I ever have the motor apart, it'll get upgraded pins for sure. For now, go till she blows I suppose. Its mostly a street car with a few trips to the strip here and there so it doesn't see quite the same hammering a dedicated drag car or drift car will.






