Weight over the lifter verses weight over the valve?
Originally Posted by STOCK1090
You want to limit the plunger travel to like say .015 or .020. Preload the lifter about .010 and you will have a nice high reving factory lifter. Never had a lifter break. We make about 530 hp on factory parts and run very low 10's at 3200lbs. No need to trick out the pushrod seats.
Rich
Rich
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
From: K-W, Ontario
I'm starting to like Rich (Stock1090) quite a bit! You'll be added to my list
of Advanced Tech users (along with a few others in this forum).
Some of the tips I have been learning and applying to my motor have
been slammed by many users of this board (not anyone in this thread).
I wish the bench racers would all peek in here and learn a thing or two.
It's nice to talk tech with people who actually know how the "secrets" work.
Try convincing the average hobby mechanic otherwise.
of Advanced Tech users (along with a few others in this forum).
Some of the tips I have been learning and applying to my motor have
been slammed by many users of this board (not anyone in this thread).
I wish the bench racers would all peek in here and learn a thing or two.
It's nice to talk tech with people who actually know how the "secrets" work.
Try convincing the average hobby mechanic otherwise.
Originally Posted by STOCK1090
You want to limit the plunger travel to like say .015 or .020. Preload the lifter about .010 and you will have a nice high reving factory lifter. Never had a lifter break. We make about 530 hp on factory parts and run very low 10's at 3200lbs. No need to trick out the pushrod seats.
Rich
Rich
Ok guys here we go. Yes we run more than that for spring. We can run to 7600 with no big deal. I have run the same set in our record setting engine for a few years with no issue. This is a race motor. You do need the .010 to .015 to take up for any heat expansion. If you go too tight you will know it. It will run like a turd. Get some ground face washers like ARP or sombody like that and grind them to fit in the bottom of the lifter body. Make sure the hole in the middle is big enough to let the spring go through it. There is some trial and error to get to the right size. Check the travel without the spring in the lifter. I do not run on the street so you may have to set the the preload a few times and heat it up to insure you are not holding the valve off the seat. On the LS we have to run the stock rocker so we have pushrods made to achieve the preload we are looking for.
Thanks for the kind words Mr Z. I was on here before but everybody thought they knew everything so after I saw the hardcore area I decided to throw my 2 cents in again.
Our team has had 8 or 10 NHRA records with LT1' and LS1's so I guess we are doing something right.
Thanks for the kind words Mr Z. I was on here before but everybody thought they knew everything so after I saw the hardcore area I decided to throw my 2 cents in again.
Our team has had 8 or 10 NHRA records with LT1' and LS1's so I guess we are doing something right.
Last edited by STOCK1090; Nov 24, 2005 at 08:04 PM.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
How do the Morel lifters compare to the Comp "R" lifters?
Lots of interesting info here
.
Lots of interesting info here
.I have not tried the Morels yet but from all I have heard they work great. My other choice would be the Schubeck's
I have a new set of Comp "R"s in it now and hope they make it through the season.
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I have not tried the Morels yet but from all I have heard they work great. My other choice would be the Schubeck's
I have a new set of Comp "R"s in it now and hope they make it through the season.
I have a new set of Comp "R"s in it now and hope they make it through the season.
. 
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Now the Schubeck's I have seen information on and they are very interesting .
.
Morel makes a limited travel lifter for the customer who wants to turn an engine. 190# on the seat is no problem. Plunger travel is set at a max of .030". For the guy that want hyd ease of adjustment but solid roller sound and stability these are the cats azz. Cost is about $100 more then a set of Std Morels.
Lifter weight. Reduction in valvetrain component weight can increase power and reving ability, but reducing weight at the cost of longevity of the part is not the answer. Whoever heard of coming in first after smokin an engine. Morels lifters are heavier then stock but there is a reason. We all know fluid doesn't like compressing. In testing Ed (Mr. Morel) did extensive hyd load testing on the effects of rpm, spring pressure, pushrod deflection, and valve float, and what happens to the lifter body during all of these. Body distortion. So Ed added material until the distortion disappeared. In this case the added gram weight is critical as far as Morel is concerned to keep the body OD concentric and not bulge out during high rpm which can cause lifter failure and oil pressure issues.
Sure you can run a cheaper lifter but their is a reason why the Morels cost more. Is the OEM lifter a good piece, yes. How about all the others, I'm sure the companies would not package/sell them if they weren't. Is there a better mouse trap. . .I guess it depends on what you want to achieve.
Lifter weight. Reduction in valvetrain component weight can increase power and reving ability, but reducing weight at the cost of longevity of the part is not the answer. Whoever heard of coming in first after smokin an engine. Morels lifters are heavier then stock but there is a reason. We all know fluid doesn't like compressing. In testing Ed (Mr. Morel) did extensive hyd load testing on the effects of rpm, spring pressure, pushrod deflection, and valve float, and what happens to the lifter body during all of these. Body distortion. So Ed added material until the distortion disappeared. In this case the added gram weight is critical as far as Morel is concerned to keep the body OD concentric and not bulge out during high rpm which can cause lifter failure and oil pressure issues.
Sure you can run a cheaper lifter but their is a reason why the Morels cost more. Is the OEM lifter a good piece, yes. How about all the others, I'm sure the companies would not package/sell them if they weren't. Is there a better mouse trap. . .I guess it depends on what you want to achieve.
