Lilfter Preload vs. Pump Up
Lifter pump up is a process that occurs with every start-up to some degree. Every time the engine is stopped, the valve springs on the valves being lifted by the cam lobes are pressing against the oil pump plunger/piston built into each hydraulic lifter. In time, this squeezes the oil out of the oil chamber in the lifter and there is slack in the valvetrain. On the next start and warm-up cycle, the the lifters pump-up (fill the oil chambers with oil) this is due to the oil pressure rise from the main oil pump and the plunging/pumping cycles within the lifters themselves due to actuation by the cam.
Pre load is akin to setting the valve clearances on mechanical lifters. Net or zero lash ocurs hen the heel of the cam is against the lifter (no lift applied) and there is no slack in the valve train (rocker arm to valve, rocker arm to push rod, pushrod to lifter, and lifter to cam lobe. Also, the piston/plunger within the lifter should not be compressed, thus squishing the oil out of the oil chamber. Once zero lash is determined, if you have adjustable lifters, you can now set the pre load with the adjusting nut ant lock it down. Alternately, if you have non-adjustable lifters, you can adjust the pre load by a combination of selecting the correct push rod length and shimming the rocker arm base if necessary.
I hope that this helps.
Steve
Last edited by DAPSUPRSLO; Jan 9, 2006 at 10:27 AM.
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Steve
I'm not sure I understand the reason for not allowing full valve lift, or increasing
wear?
wear?
Steve
I have been reading David Vizards book and he states that pump up is usually the result of slack in the valve train (onset of float) rather then the lifter causing float. But I also thought that valving could cause the lifter to pump up as well holding the valve open and the resulting loss of power.
of Pre-load is to self adjust and take up slack as the valve train parts wear down.
Once you have correctly figured pushrod length, rocker tip alignment, etc., the
pre-load can be set to maintain a certain amount of correction as parts wear down.
The seat is always slopping around to some degree causing a variance in lift
at the valve. For this reason, I believe high output race motors will use a solid cam.
For peformance setups, modest amounts of pre-load can be set to limit the
travel of the plunger...which is getting closer to the function of a solid lifter.
This is one of the tricks I was shown to get a little more power.
As far as I'm aware, the lifter will pump up if the valve floats and creates clearance
between the cam lobe and valve tip.
The intial pre-load amount will always return.
.
o 'Preload' per the factories is the setting/adjusting of the hydraulic piston in the lifter somewhere near it's mid-travel point, so that it can extend to account for heat expansion or contract to compensate for wear.
o 'Pump up' as the word is normally used by performance enthusiasts, is the lifter doing it's thing and taking up what it sees as 'clearance' but which is actually valve float. Thus, when the cam rotates to the base circle, the valve is still propped open, leaking compression, until the lifter adjusts itself back to normal.
o By setting the preload very small, the lifter seat cannot move far enough to prop the valve open very much, so the power loss at and immediately after valve float is reduced. Clearly this is a band aid. If it's happening regularly, you need better valve gear or less RPM!
o Vizard actually makes another point I hadn't though of, namely that even at the best of times, oil contains a fair bit of very compressible air which, especially with stout springs and high lift, means that as much as 0.020" 'collapse' can occur during a valve event, robbing lift and duration from the nominal cam profile. His solution is to select longer push rods and adjust the lifters within a few thous of bottoming out completely when cold, thus limiting the potential collapse. He says this rarely fails to give a 20 HP gain.
o He also says that in his testing, Royal Purple oil seems less prone to air entrainment and so reduces collapse and adds power in hydraulic cam applications.
In a hydraulic lifter racing engine you adjust the valves for zero preload on a hot engine. That way the lifters can not pump up during valve float and hold the valves open. You need lifters with strong tru arc clips holding the push rod cup and piston in place. Most stock type lifters have cheap bent wire clips.
Street engines can be adjusted with about .010" to .015" preload hot. You obviously need adjustable rocker arms to do this.
As Bill stated, if the oil is aerated the lifters will collapse a bit reducing both lift and duration. Increasing the oil pressure will help. The best solution is dry sumping the engine if you indeed want or need to keep a true hydraulic lifter in the engine.
Stock eliminator racers have another trick. They prop up the push rod cup -piston with a steel pin inside the hydraulic lifter. The pin keeps the lifter from fully collapsing if the oil does get aerated - almost a certainty. Some cam companies sell these lifters but don't advertise them.
By the way, I've built hundreds of hydraulic lifter racing engines through the years.
Steve
o 'Preload' per the factories is the setting/adjusting of the hydraulic piston in the lifter somewhere near it's mid-travel point, so that it can extend to account for heat expansion or contract to compensate for wear.
o 'Pump up' as the word is normally used by performance enthusiasts, is the lifter doing it's thing and taking up what it sees as 'clearance' but which is actually valve float. Thus, when the cam rotates to the base circle, the valve is still propped open, leaking compression, until the lifter adjusts itself back to normal.
o By setting the preload very small, the lifter seat cannot move far enough to prop the valve open very much, so the power loss at and immediately after valve float is reduced. Clearly this is a band aid. If it's happening regularly, you need better valve gear or less RPM!
o Vizard actually makes another point I hadn't though of, namely that even at the best of times, oil contains a fair bit of very compressible air which, especially with stout springs and high lift, means that as much as 0.020" 'collapse' can occur during a valve event, robbing lift and duration from the nominal cam profile. His solution is to select longer push rods and adjust the lifters within a few thous of bottoming out completely when cold, thus limiting the potential collapse. He says this rarely fails to give a 20 HP gain.
o He also says that in his testing, Royal Purple oil seems less prone to air entrainment and so reduces collapse and adds power in hydraulic cam applications.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
the motor to temp.
Using my dial indicator, I'll re-set the pre-load to 0.005" and then run the
motor. I have been able to get 3HP on the dyno by resetting the valves.
My idle vacuum picks up a few points as well which means it's not only a
high RPM application.
I still don't know of any hydraulic cams in Pro-stock, or similar race classes.
That is what I meant by 'high output race motor'. Sorry, I should have been
more specific.
Overall, this just raises the question, especially with adjustable rockers needed anyway, that more LS1 engines aren't using solid lifters. Is it rule restriction in the racing classes?



