Aerodynamics
The key to a good areo shape is a low frount nose, steeply raked windsheild, and high rear end. A shape like the F-body and Y-body. The areo profile in the reverse would have to not a good one.
If you think the car is more arrodynamic runnning backwards.... by all means than drive it that way. FRankly, I think I will drive mine the normal way!!!
Last edited by wabmorgan; Feb 14, 2006 at 03:11 PM.
The key to a good areo shape is a low frount nose, steeply raked windsheild, and high rear end. A shape like the F-body and Y-body. The areo profile in the reverse would have to not a good one.
If you think the car is more arrodynamic runnning backwards.... by all means than drive it that way. FRankly, I think I will drive mine the normal way!!!

The most aerodynamic shape is a rain droplet, yet this is big or tall at the front and narrow at the back, so maybe driving in reverse would be better with some cars.
Here's a car that's taller at the front than the back yet it's very very very aerodynamic.
If you were to rake the firebird's windsheild back 10 deg or so... it would be even more areo than it is now. Not to mention moving the nose out and lower would help even more.
My point is not that the car is taller in back.... it is that the back end of the F-body is flat vertically, like a wall and the corvette is even more so. SO, running backwards in either you would be pushing a lot of wind... not good for C/d.
Considering the 4th gens Firebirds/Trans Am have an even steper windshield rake than the C6 or a third gen Firebird, they would have to be more areodynamic.
Lastly, there would be no reason for anyone to run an areodynamic test in reverse!!!!!!!
There is not much you can do to a 4th gen 1998 fbody that will significantly reduce ET or increase trap speed in the 1/4 mile, even if the car is running 11's.
Here's some examples:
ls1 fbody, 375rwhp/375ft-lbs, 3300lb, 3.73 gears, a4, FA = 20' ^2
air density=.00236
If Cd=.35, ET = 11.65 @ 121.69
If Cd=.30, ET = 11.61 @ 122.49
If Cd=.25, ET = 11.56 @ 123.29
This is based off of my 1/4 mile simulator, in a perfect world, with perfect shifting, and perfect launch and traction... And no, Cd of .25 is not attainable with an air dam.
Since he was talking about having a 4th gen fbody, I answered with specificity to a 4th gen fbody. So before he goes out and hacks up his undercarriage, I want him to know that on HIS car, it isn't going to help much. And if he still decides to do it, I wanted to give him real life expectations. What works for one car doesn't work for all cars, because not all cars are the same.
Mirrors are also a killer; not just because of size, but also their location. BTW, the 4th gen Camaro had the lowest drag conventional mirrors ever produced.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The most aerodynamic shape is a rain droplet, yet this is big or tall at the front and narrow at the back, so maybe driving in reverse would be better with some cars.
Here's a car that's taller at the front than the back yet it's very very very aerodynamic.

Mirrors are also a killer; not just because of size, but also their location. BTW, the 4th gen Camaro had the lowest drag conventional mirrors ever produced.
but to me that is not much differant than the Banshee

And the Banshee was what the 4th generation Firebird was based upon. Pontiac said, "The 4th gereration Firebird is based upon the 3rd generation Firebird and the Banshee prototype car."
big wings are not i a idea as they a very inefficent! now a rear diffucer can be very effective at making downforce and dont dissturb the air at all!
Chris.
Note where the hood vents are and how the cowl area is completely flush and sealed.
Also you can see where the air that comes in from the radiator never makes it under the hood.
Note where the hood vents are and how the cowl area is completely flush and sealed.
Also you can see where the air that comes in from the radiator never makes it under the hood.
Removing side mirrors as already stated is the easiest. Taping up the body gaps is the next easiest.
The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. This is fact.
Opening the hood at the rear only lets air under the hood, increasing lift, unless you have a wicker bill.
If you want to reduce underhood pressure a vent needs to be installed in the front 1/3 to 1/2 of the hood, past that you start to see high pressure build up and air would more than likely enter the hood. Louvers, or a big hole is the only type of vent I'm aware of that will do the job. Louvers would have to fabricated. A lip at the front of the "vent" would be needed to make it more effective.
A front air dam, already mentioned, can help significantly. As mentioned by Nata SS a conversion to a front breather is needed.
A rear diffuser, as already mentioned, can help as well. It straighten the air under the car and removes the parachute that is the rear bumper.
These are the "easiest" gains to be had. If you do some research you'll realize that these projects aren't all that easy. If your a drag racer I would say that none of this is going to make much of any difference as most of this stuff doesn't begin to show up until 100mph, improvements and stability are noticed by 150mph or so.
If you want to check out sites that will cater more to high speed motorsports/touring etc check out the following.
http://www.frrax.com
http://www.openroadracing.com/forum/
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum_main.htm
http://www.corner-carvers.com/
Doing searches and reading on these sites should keep you busy for weeks.
The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. This is fact.
Opening the hood at the rear only lets air under the hood, increasing lift, unless you have a wicker bill.
QUOTE]
True that - opening the back of the hood up will get more air to the engine compartment, and eat away at the low pressure under your chasis.




