Is there really not a way to tune individual injectors within LS1 PCM program ?

I would be amazed if the PCM was originally coded for uniform air distribution by GM.
Get HPT or Efi to provide hooks for individual injector tune and it's solved.

 

its called scaling the injectors.

 

scaling, tuning.. as you wish, I really wonder why it's not offered by hpt or efi.

 

When i get the 96# injectors and go for more power I'm going to have one injector set to 2% more flow than all the others and put that one in #7. Should help out.

 

I herd a posible fix would be to use the ls2 intake instead. not only do the flow more evenly but they flow ALOT ruhmor has it the flow like or better then the fast 90. cant see GM changing the intake without taking things like that into account so has anyone tried using one to fix the problem?

 

I believe you are misinformed. The LS6 outflows the LS2 in tests.

 

I dont think this issue will ever be completely remedied. We have heard so many reasons for #7 failures. We have heard cooling, lean issues due to intake design, oiling, and fueling. That covers alomost all aspects of internal combustion engines. I hope someday it gets officially figured out what the #7 issue is.

 

why would they bother putting a less efficient intake onto a motor that has more displacement?? the only reson i can think of is velocity reasons??

 

I dont know why they would do it, but they both have been flow tested in some magazine or something, I really dont remember where it was, but anyway the LS6 out flowed the LS2.

 

just a stupid question but would runing an injector cleaner (you know the ones you throw in half a tank of fuel) help clean up number 7injector???? might jsut break down some of the gunk and blow it through!

Chris.

 

seem like alot of people with the #7 probs are 6.0's or truck motors, is it a common problem on the F-body LS1's?

 

Man this makes me want to rip off my fuel rail and injectors and clean them for peice of mind.

 

It is over on the FI side of the fourm...

 

Here's a write-up for a homemade injector cleaner.

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...heck=199140126

 

Can't get there, gives me a large error message...

 

is this on all LSx motors? certain years? f/y bodies or trucks more?

 

about 10 yrs. There's one way to properly clean injectors, and that's to remove them, flow test for problems, pull the filter baskets, run them thru a bench cleaner. Once that's done, they are flow tested, and the wear items are replaced.

The on car stuff can force the crud on into the inj body, and can cause them to flow worse than they were, to start with.

Pm me for details, if you wish.

 

EXACTLY!

Most of the guys that are singing the praises of injector cleaners have no idea what an injector filter basket is and have definitely not seen one up close.

IF the 'cleaner' was to actually knock something loose in the fuel system, The 'crud' is not very likely to make it past the filter basket and overall flow will be reduced.

The last injectors that I removed and sent out to be flow tested and cleaned also had the pintle caps, filter baskets, and all the o-rings and seals replaced with NEW parts for $20.00 per injector (and they came back with a flow sheet which showed both before and after flow rates).

When injectors can be serviced correctly for so cheap, I can only wonder why someone would want to waste $5.00 on a bottle of injector 'cleaner' that will likely cause no benefit at all.

 

Sorry about that, here is the write-up from CLubGP

Here's what you'll need:
1 ea. R-12 freon can TOP tapper, they're still out there but you'll have to search.
2 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Male to 1/4" barbed adapters
1 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Tee connector
2 ea. clamps to fit the hose
1 ea. 1/4" NPT pressure gauge, air compressor ones are the easiest to find.
1 ea. #5 (3/8" od x 1/4" id x 1/16") O-ring to replace one that must be changed.
1 roll Teflon plumber's tape
1 sm tube RTV sealant
1 ea. #10 screw

1) Cut the can tapper hose ~ 5" from the end that goes to the car - not the can.
2) File about 1/8" off the connector on that hose.
3) Disassemble the connector that goes on the freon can end.
4) Remove the O-ring or washer that's inside that end.
5) File about 1/8" off of the larger threaded end or enough until the new o-ring protrudes a little over ½ its diameter outside the newly filed edges. RTV in place.
6) Re-assemble the "can end" valve.
7) Put one clamp on each of the (now) two hose ends.
8) Wipe a little dish soap on the barbed ends.
9) Heat the hose ends under very hot water.
8) Install the barbed adapters on the open hose ends and clamp them.
10) Wrap two turns of the teflon tape on the threaded ends of the barbed adapters
11) Wrap two turns of the teflon tape to the gauge threads.
12) Tighten everything up very snug to prevent any leaks.

Using the injector cleaner:
1) Unscrew the top cap connector from the valve and install it on the can.
2) Remove the cap on your fuel rail (do not loose it!)
3) Open the underhood fusebox and remove the 15A fuel pump fuse.
4) Try to start the car - if it runs you pulled the wrong fuse.
5) Remove the vacuum line from the fuel regulator and plug it with the screw.
6) Ensure that the can tapper needle valve is backed all the way out.
7) Thread the tapper valve into the adapter you've already installed on the can.
8) Slowly turn the can tapper valve until you read about 40 psi on the gauge.
9) Make sure the cleaner can is in an upright position.
10) Start the car and let it run until it's used up all the cleaner.
11) Take everything back off and put back the fuse and fuel rail cap.

If your car is over a year old and you've never had the injectors professionally
cleaned don't be surprised if your gas mileage goes up along with a slight increase in power. :-)

Approximate parts costs: (but remember you'll be hitting several places)
1 ea. R-12 freon can TOP tapper ~$10.00
2 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Male to 1/4" barbed adapters ~$ 1.50 each
1 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Female Tee connector ~$ 4.00
2 ea. clamps to fit the hose ~$ 1.00 each
1 ea. 1/4" NPT pressure gauge ~$10.00
1 ea. O-ring to replace one that must be changed ~$ 0.39
1 roll Teflon plumber's tape. ~$ 1.00
1 tube RTV sealant ~$ 2.99
1 ea. #10 screw, almost any kind will work ~$ 0.10
Tax ~$ 2.80
_________
Approximate total cost if you build it: $33.78