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ARP L-19's...

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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #21  
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Another question is, how accurate is your torque wrench? I have found most Snap On wrenches error low. Most torque wrenches that are not turned all the way down in between use, will error low. Just making the point that if your having sealing problems, it may not be the gaskets, fasteners or lube.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 11:21 PM
  #22  
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I installed my studs today. I was told 90ft/lbs, I thought that was a bit much so went with 80. Heres the kicker, second to last stud ended up ripping the threads off the block. I don't understand how that could happen with so many people over torqueing them to 90. I'm thinking maybe my torque wrench is off but it seemed to work fine for all the others. It was the center, farthest back stud. I didn't know what to do so I just used one of the stock bolts and torqued it down to only 50 because there is only about a 1/2" left of threads left in the block due to the fact the studs don't go down quite as far as the stock bolts. All the others are torqued to 80. I really hope it doesn't cause a leak. Anyway, I would not over torque on an aluminum block if you don't want to risk pulling the threads out.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:08 AM
  #23  
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The studs should bottom out. Perhaps that's why your block was stripped.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:13 AM
  #24  
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Thats possible, the bottom of the studs don't have threads so those are the only threads left in the block. It's a little less than 1/2".
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:27 AM
  #25  
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From my understanding the studs should bottom out on the shoulder of the stud (top of block) not the bottom of the stud. We have broke a stud in half because it bottomed out in the block. We could see the bottom of the stud was shinned up. Only 1 stud looked like this. It may be a problem with some blocks not threaded deep enough allowing the stud to bottom out in the block instead of the shoulder of the stud...
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #26  
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never over torque a fastner......the block stripped for some other reason. I use A1 technologies stud kit (1000.00 set) made from a material called MP-35. They get torqued to 90ft lbs.

The L-19 studs are also very sensitive to moisture. It will actually cause the metal to weaken / breakdown.

Tom Ulrich
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tomulrich
never over torque a fastner......the block stripped for some other reason. I use A1 technologies stud kit (1000.00 set) made from a material called MP-35. They get torqued to 90ft lbs.

The L-19 studs are also very sensitive to moisture. It will actually cause the metal to weaken / breakdown.

Tom Ulrich
This is true but as we know the LSx blocks are dry holes so moisture problems are pretty much non-existant with the L-19's...so I've been told.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #28  
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I didn't know if you all knew this but recently I put my 402 together. I bought the digital tq wrench from snap on 325.00 in the manual it gives you a formula for using extensions. Man was I surprised when I found out that a 2 inch extenison made me have to turn the TQ rating up 14 foot pounds. Little peice of info you all might want to know.
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Let me thread hijack for a sec. Is there a difference between a ARP Head Stud and an ARP L-19 Head Stud? I already searched and looked through the ARP Catalog and never found L19 in the catalog. I could have overlooked it though...

Edit: OK, i found this for different material for head studs http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T2_Met...ialSpecs2.html but still don't know what stock arp studs are made out of and arp over the internet just said that L19 is different material and should not be used unless the motor was torn down frequently to check studs...they do corrode....

Last edited by Lythropus; Apr 15, 2007 at 01:08 PM.
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