GREAT! cant wait to see them thanks John02SS!

 

+1 here. Love to see the results before I take the dremel to mine!

 

Maybe someone with a professionally ported intake could take pictures of all three pieces so that we can compare it to a stock one.
From what I understand most of the gains don't come from smoothing or port matching. It comes from the work done around the entrance of the runner.

 

I have some pic's that someone sent me here's a couple of them, the others are too big to post. But, it gives you an idea what is being done.. nowhere near the $ taht some people are charging to do the job that I can promise you.

 

After seeing the quality work from Mamo, I would venture to say that almost all of the do it yourselfers are porting too much and actually hurting the gains. I don't want to go into too much detail as it is Tony's r&d that got him to that point and folks should have to pay him for it. I'm looking forward to having some numbers for yall though.

 

Any news on the results from the ported vs unported test?

 

clay or a sheet of wax would have worked wonders.. .lol

 

I have a Mamo ported fast and all I can say is that I think he hs a more skilled hand than most out there and has done a lot of these intakes and has done a lot of R&D so I think the avarage person will not get the same gains that he will. I'm not sure how much of a gain the fast was worth cause I did a header swap also but my numbers went from 426rwhp to 452rwhp. I swapped a set of SLP headers out for a set of stepped Kooks and swapped a LS6 intake out for a Mamo ported FAST 90. I also swapped a 80mm BBK TB for a NW 90mm TB.Too many changes at once to pin point what I gained from

 

Before and after dynos are definitely an important piece to the puzzle; I too am also contmplating doing some minor port work to the Fast 90 I just ordered

 

The test mule is awaiting a new motor. Should be a few weeks before we have it up and running.

 

i told you to ginny pig mine

not to mention i have some ported by some folks to test also

 

Its much easier to test on mine.... we can have the intakes completely swapped in a little less than 10mins

Hopefully it will be going back together next week.

 

eagerly awaiting dyno results!!!! thanks again John02SS.

 

yea i know but have you seen under my hood

i am gonna test one or 2 the next time i'm down there though. i'll get with john and try to be there when yours is being done because i have 3 of them to test from different places

 

Swanner, Yours or Tommy's will work. Lets get this going right after the holidays. I'm ready to see some intakes tested. Seems we should have a Mamo, Futral, Home ported, and a stock 90 to test. Should yeild some great data!

 

mine won't make this pull. i will probably make the trip down there in da beater' though..... with a few intakes to test

just let me know a good week in advance so i can plan to be down there!

 

Some good info in here. If a custom ported 'mamo' intake makes an additional 10hp over the stock FAST, then that's a considerable gain, especially if it's across the board. But if it causes a dip in the low end, only to make a gain in a 500rpm window, then it's not worth it in my mind.

This is worth the wait for sure.

 

I really don't get why so many people worry about making power at 3000 rpms.. when you race where is the rpm's at? And driving around town.. what do you need power at low rpm for anyway, the car will still move, it's not like we are talking about a truck that is gonna tow a trailer.......

 

Why, because a street car is definitely more enjoyable to drive without having to downshift constantly. Low end torque is what makes a 330 v-8 much more enjoyable to drive than a 330 hp v-tec that needs to spin to 8000rpm to make 330 hp.

You are totally right about racing, as long as you make enough torque to get the car to 60' well, upper rpm hp is what is important. But for driving on the street, I usually spend time between 2000-4000 rpm and would like more power there because it suits my driving style.

Now if you like to constantly spin your motor to 6500, then so be it, that's your prefered driving style.

Maybe if I had an auto, with a 3800-4500 stall converter I'd care less about low end torque, but having a stick, I like low end grunt.

 

And looking at your signature, I totally understand why low end power isn't as important to you. You've got a 402, with an auto, so you're probably making 40-70 more ft/lbs of torque than me throughout the rpm range.

Sometime in the future (after we finish the basement, build another two car garage, etc) I'll do a bigger cube motor to get that 450ft/lbs of torque at 3000 rpm that I crave. Till then, I'll do whatever I can to increase hp while maintaining low end torque. I plan on decreasing my quench area with a head gasket swap and a retune after going to bigger injectors.