BobScat

Hi Guys
I have to make a decision on block choice and am leaning toward an LS2 with the new LA Sleeves 4.125 bore and billet caps. I have heard that sleeves move around a bit at the higher levels in these blocks and I was told that hard blocking the lower couple of inches would help the bottom stay together. I know it dampens the harmonics in an iron block and if done right will stabilize my 400 chevy blocks out to .060 over with good ring seal. I was told that being an aluminum block it would make for a hotter oil temp which has not been a problem in the iron blocks and would need to run a cooler which I had plans on doing any way. I plan on twin turbos but would like to keep the lighter weight block for handling. Any input would be appreciated as this is my first LS1. I am a chevy dinosaur who sold his 58 DelRey 4 speed for a 02 Camaro M6. I know I can use a 6.0 iron block at 1000hp but it is heavier and limits the bore. I just want a steady round bore. Any ideas?
Thanks

triumphman

I would wait for the new iron ls-x block. The alum. block I believe would fail at the power levels you would be at, try and save weight somewhere else. remember the block is the foundation of your engine

BobScat

I know everyone says the same thing. I was just hoping to save a few off the nose. The new LSX is really heavy and I want to do the mile with it and maybe some open track days. I may just have to wait.
Thanks
Bob

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I'm not familiar with "hard blocking", but it almost sounds like a engine girdle. The LS2 has proven to be a good block for resleeving and durability. When you say higher level, I assume you mean big horsepower and high rpms. Either way, call Katech or Race Engine Development (sponsors here). Both have extensive experience with resleeving LSX blocks and can offer expert advice. Katech is known for building bullet proof blocks that can handle big power and are durable to boot.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

depending on the power levels and price, check out the Warhawk block also.

chuntington101

LS ally blocks will be fine at 1000bhp! just use the right components.

W2W can sell lyou a very nice 402 that can either take 1000bhp or 1250bhp. you could probably build one cheaper but this ilistrates that these blocks are MORE THAN STRONG ENOUGH!!!!!!!!!!

also there are several corvette guy puching at or around 1000bhp (crank) on stock blocks.

if you want to go for sleves then try Darton sleves. i think there has been alot of work to help stop them moving about.

thanks Chris.

NoMoreFWD

iTrader: (1)

I don't have an answer for you, but i'm familiar with hard blok for the 400's. I think you have a good idea.

2001WS6Vert

We are running a hard filled LS2 in the race car without a girdle (94mm turbo) . It will be running soon. I would rate the aluminum like this.
1-Warhawk
2-RED sleeved
3-LS2
We went LS2 because we felt it could do the job we wanted and because the car is way over budget.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

unless there is a reaosn you have to have a 4.125 bore, I'd stick with a 4 inch bore setup, use either an ls2 or 6.0 iron block and call it a day. With a twon turbo setup, the boost I'm sure it will be capable of will more then make up for the addd power from 27 CI.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

there are allready handfulls of ls2 block cars running around at or above your goal hp without anything extra done to it. mines from wheel to wheel.

BobScat

Thanks for the input guys.
I think I am going to wait to see what is up with the LSX block. I have a set of Dart 225's, MSD coil packs, 4 inch or more forged crank, and H beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts.
I have waited on pistons till I decided on the block. I think with the Squires twin system and intercooler I am getting I am going to stress the block to the max. So I think I am going to wait for the iron beast to show up.
This is a SEMA car and we are showcasing our new LS1 crank kit at the show so I dont want any problems with the foundation the crank has to lay in. Once I see the block then I will decide on the stroke and rod lengths to keep the piston up in the bore at the bottom of the stroke which is where I worry about the sleeves moving with a longer than 4 inch stroke.
I can go up to 4.25x4.25 if I want so it could be any thing from a 400 to a 482 with the std deck. I am afraid the tall deck would be to much work from a packaging stand point. We are doing a Dart Tall Deck SBC at 4.125 by 4.185 inches with Weld Tech ported GB2000 heads flowing 400cfm and a new quad rotor Ozzy blower for a 86 vette and the intake and exhaust manifold issues are more than I want to deal with in this project. We are not even sure it will fit in the vette when it is done. As would be the case with the under hood clearance on a 2002 Cam. I hope to run this at the mile and need it to make the drive both ways, so I want the strength. From what all of you said I would be pushing it a bit on a LS2. Although as some said there are a few out there that have hit the 1000 RWHP mark that is a starting point for this deal. I know W2W is awesome as is Katech. I just need to keep a lid on costs as this is not a money no object deal. And with it going into a magazine I really want it to shine. We are going to be doing both Engine dyno runs and then installed chassis runs so it is going to see a lot of abuse before it ever hits the road. I do thank you for all your help as this is my first LS1 and I am looking forward to it. LS1 tech is an awesome site for a tech junkie. Oh by the way this has to be turned way down when it is done as this is my daily driver and it has to make it thru Calif Smog.
Thanks
Bob

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

sounds like your goals have changed some from first post to third, but no doubt that if you asked for the strongest highest potential block then your new plan is good.

squires? just a heads up but i dont think the vette twin sytem is proven at /over 1000hp

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, If I was to do twins, I would prolly do something similar to the old Incon set up. The AL block will be strong enough, but if it helps you sleep at night then I would just wait for the LSx block becuase I hate anticipating a bang whenever you floor it.

BobScat

Yeah you know how these things go, I'm only gonna do some "minor mods" turns into a full blown race car. This was some thing along those lines. The boss said do it big or stay home so I am going to try. Talked to Mr Squires and he says he has a new system coming on line that will be able to do what we want. It is suppose to address all the issues that people had with the older systems and should be able to do 20 plus lbs of boost with a twin exhaust tail pipe and a real quick spool up. I like the idea so I think I am going to go to GM and see if we can get a block for the deal.
Thanks
Bob

chuntington101

have you seen this kit???

http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=149

guy have been making BIG power out of these (dont think anyone has hit 1000rwhp on any of the shelf vette kit i dont think).

thanks CHris.

BobScat

I am new to turbos, my last big motor was 822 flywheel on pump at Joe Shermans dyno. It was a 440 inch BBC with a 10psi weiand 8-71 and 2 750 Edelbrocks for a boat. I have a lot of customers running the turbos and they are so much easier on parts then the other style boosts or nitrous. It is just the plumbing that is a pain. I am looking at other options but STS wants to get in on the car and I am inclined to let them as I like the idea of a rear mount even if it did make a bit less. But I have talked to a few guys who make a ton of power on them. The MTI guys make a ton of power on theirs but they had trouble sealing the bore off on the mile and blew the oil cap off. I think they did 922 at the wheels on their GTO kit in I believe road and track. I looked at the site you sent me and I guess I need to go get better educated on turbos. But on this one Richard Holdner is helping me and is writing the article for Chevy Hi and he did 1200 on a truck 6.0 with our crank and rods in it. So I think I do need to make sure I have some stout underpinnings on this car. Thanks for the help though I am learning a ton on LS1 tech about the new blocks and when we get the stroker packages ready to sell I want to be able to talk intellegently with the customers. I have been very suprised at the quality of people on this site, every one seems to to be a real bunch of great guys.
Bob

macky

If this is a showcase for you or your company's abilities then I would not use those MSD coil packs. Do some searches and you will notice that they have been giving people some massive headaches. There is nothing wrong with the standard GM coil packs and if you need more spark then use the truck coils. I'm only telling you this because it would suck to have something go wrong during a magazine shoot/dyno/car show et cetera. They can work fine but they can also cause problems that are very hard to figure out.