proper precedure for break in...multiple items
proper precedure for break in...multiple items if this is not the correct section for this i appoligize...feel free to move.
im in a situation where im gonna have multiple items that are in need of break in and not sure how to go about it.
i have a bran new engine (short block and heads)...bran new Turbo kit...and bran new clutch. how would you go about breakin these items in considering it needs to be tuned? (which i didnt want to beat on it right away b/c of the clutch) should i put a base line tune in and take it easy for a few hundred miles before properly tuning it?? i dont want to cause any problems to one specific item trying to properly set up another if that makes any sence (seating the rings, breakin in the clutch, keeping metal shavings out of the oil, etc etc).
any suggestions would be appreciated as to how i should go about this...thanx.
im in a situation where im gonna have multiple items that are in need of break in and not sure how to go about it.
i have a bran new engine (short block and heads)...bran new Turbo kit...and bran new clutch. how would you go about breakin these items in considering it needs to be tuned? (which i didnt want to beat on it right away b/c of the clutch) should i put a base line tune in and take it easy for a few hundred miles before properly tuning it?? i dont want to cause any problems to one specific item trying to properly set up another if that makes any sence (seating the rings, breakin in the clutch, keeping metal shavings out of the oil, etc etc).
any suggestions would be appreciated as to how i should go about this...thanx.
Can the places that sold you the engine and turbo not answer this question? Why would you get on here after spending tens of thousands with them?
Youre going to get a wide range of opinions. some people say "take it easy for X miles," othrs will say, "drive it like you will the rest of the time."
Youre going to get a wide range of opinions. some people say "take it easy for X miles," othrs will say, "drive it like you will the rest of the time."
I got on here cause this is a tech board and i need some tech advise. im very well aware of how to break in each item if its done 1 at a time. ive never been in this situation where i have 3 items which are bran new therefore im unsure of what to do.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 320
Likes: 5
From: Nottingham, Notts, England, UK
Main thing to bed in are the rings, the rest of the stuff will follow. Make sure you have oil pressure, fire up and give it a few rev bursts to bed the rings. Then do some local driving at light loads so as not to work the bearing shells to hard. Vary the revs and snap the throttle shut from time to time to get oil splashed up the bores. Also, creat some load on the engine but only briefly. Make it work but don't sustain it for to long. The clutch and turbo's don't need preferential treatment so forget about them and think more about the engine breakin. All IMO of course
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I'd fire it up and bring thr rpm to 2500 until you have oil temp at 180 or more. Then take it out and wring its neck-- WOT, idle, and everything in between in all gears. Do this for at least 30 min, preferably an hour.
Then change the oil and call it good.
JMO
Then change the oil and call it good.
JMO
Many many people have different ideas about breakin, but the biggest thing that the vast majority of people will tell you is to vary the RPM and load. And i would definetly recomend changing the oil pretty soon.
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Motor:
I use 15w/40w Shell Rotella-T oil. This has the extra addatives in it that the oils used to have (do a search if you'd like). I only use this for the first few hundred miles. I heat cycle the motor to full operating temp 3-4 times, varying the RPM's, letting a complete cool down in between. I change the oil the first time after (2) 20 minutes heat cycles. Since the oil is only 11 bucks a gallon, its not all that expensive.
I gradually increase the load on the motor intil about 300-500 miles. After that, its full tilt. I dont switch to synthetic until around 2500 miles. But I guess thats really dependant of the ring material your using.
Clutch:
I tend to go easy on it until I reach a couple hundred miles. But I do typically give it quite a few aggresive releases while breaking it in. I just dont overheat it until its fully broken in. I usually dont get on a new clutch when its cold.
Turbo: I wouldnt worry about it.
I use 15w/40w Shell Rotella-T oil. This has the extra addatives in it that the oils used to have (do a search if you'd like). I only use this for the first few hundred miles. I heat cycle the motor to full operating temp 3-4 times, varying the RPM's, letting a complete cool down in between. I change the oil the first time after (2) 20 minutes heat cycles. Since the oil is only 11 bucks a gallon, its not all that expensive.
I gradually increase the load on the motor intil about 300-500 miles. After that, its full tilt. I dont switch to synthetic until around 2500 miles. But I guess thats really dependant of the ring material your using.
Clutch:
I tend to go easy on it until I reach a couple hundred miles. But I do typically give it quite a few aggresive releases while breaking it in. I just dont overheat it until its fully broken in. I usually dont get on a new clutch when its cold.
Turbo: I wouldnt worry about it.
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Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,875
Likes: 1
From: Naperville, IL
Originally Posted by HOHN
I'd fire it up and bring thr rpm to 2500 until you have oil temp at 180 or more. Then take it out and wring its neck-- WOT, idle, and everything in between in all gears. Do this for at least 30 min, preferably an hour.
Then change the oil and call it good.
JMO
Then change the oil and call it good.
JMO
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
the idea that ive always gotten and learned...was for new motors, its treat it like a baby for 1000 miles....dont use synthetic to break it in.....and check your fluid levels constanly....for FI applications, tune the car for low boost and run it at low boost at first, when break in has occurred you can retune it for higher boost and turn it up....as far as the clutch....
ive never owned a "brand new" clutch....
beat the dog **** out of it
ive never owned a "brand new" clutch.... beat the dog **** out of it 
The turbo should be broken in from the factory(but depends who made it) f.ex Garrett turbines has 500hours of brake in and endurance test,so no worry's there
Clutch can be both eased in and driven hard,I have done both and no diffrence if the flywheel is new or milled
I´m guessing you have cromemoly rings?They don´t need a long time to brake in.
It´s not good to idle much but on inital startup it´s ok to let the motor heat a but up then drive it normally but do not let the turbine boost for the first 100-200 miles but don´t over rev it either 75% of the usable RPM range is pleanty,it´s just about getting the rings seald in
If your computer is not programmed,that is the first thing to do,get the airflow and fuel charts good before trying to brake it in,the rest will follow
Clutch can be both eased in and driven hard,I have done both and no diffrence if the flywheel is new or milled
I´m guessing you have cromemoly rings?They don´t need a long time to brake in.
It´s not good to idle much but on inital startup it´s ok to let the motor heat a but up then drive it normally but do not let the turbine boost for the first 100-200 miles but don´t over rev it either 75% of the usable RPM range is pleanty,it´s just about getting the rings seald in
If your computer is not programmed,that is the first thing to do,get the airflow and fuel charts good before trying to brake it in,the rest will follow
dyno it. take it for 3 runs. just like on a reg. dyno run, 3rd gear would probably be the best. 1st run, take it up to about 4500 rpms, and monitor your air fuel adn everything. cool down, run it again except go up to about 52 or 5300 rpms or 80% throttle, cool down and monitor it, and then run it wide open the next time, and you should be set. trailer the car to a place to run it though. you dont have to have a dyno, its just easy to explain. you could probably do it on the street to, but remember, the first 20-30 miles are the most important. you want your rings to seal tightly, and by running it all nice like grandma does for 1000 miles, you are doing nothing but making a loose seal, which will cause blow by. 1st time you start it up and go dont go 100% go 60% 75% 80%100% within the first 20 miles. if your easy and dont put a load on the car it will wear off the cross hatch and make the rings tension lower. remmeber though, within 20 or 30 miles the crosshatch will be worn and you rings will be seated, and you will be stuck with how you broke it in. proper load is key. as far as your clutch, be smooth with the throttle and dont dump on the clutch. gget on it in the middle of the gears.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Arizona.
You dont need to worry about anything save the rings and the bearings. Everything else is fine as is. Run the turbos on low low boost at first.
As for break in method, its not an exact science. I will say this. I just broke in a 8.3:1 forged piston 4G63 (made for boost). So fairly loose ring gaps on top of the low low compression ratio so that it like regular pump gas and lots of boost. It still had 150PSI on all cylinders despite those factors. I broke it in with light throttle, less than 4000RPM, and lots of varied revs for 500 miles, followed by pretty typical DD duty. An 8.7:1 combo had 170PSi across on the same method. It does not burn oil either.
Id rather do a slow break in and know its fine than beat on it. Plenty of time to beat on it later. Doing it the slow way costs nothing but time.
As for break in method, its not an exact science. I will say this. I just broke in a 8.3:1 forged piston 4G63 (made for boost). So fairly loose ring gaps on top of the low low compression ratio so that it like regular pump gas and lots of boost. It still had 150PSI on all cylinders despite those factors. I broke it in with light throttle, less than 4000RPM, and lots of varied revs for 500 miles, followed by pretty typical DD duty. An 8.7:1 combo had 170PSi across on the same method. It does not burn oil either.
Id rather do a slow break in and know its fine than beat on it. Plenty of time to beat on it later. Doing it the slow way costs nothing but time.
Rick - I talked to a guy @ cecil who had a recent 408 f1 procharger setup. He put a base street tune with low boost to break the bottom end in. then after 1000 miles he tortured it on a dyno the took it to the track. If you have a wideband could you and HSW can set a safe AF/R and spark table and set the limiter at like 5500? It will be fast as ***** and you dont wanna overspin it immediatley.
