Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

An update on the Edelbrock coil covers.

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Old 02-17-2009, 02:24 AM
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Looks good so far!

Question: why the problem with #8, #6 spark plugs? Wouldn't they be connected before you put the coil covers on?

Which brings me to the question: how do the spark plug wires from the coil packs route? Do they just come out from under the coil cover edge and go to the plugs as usual? Stock length wires fit OK?

As far as the dipstick goes - you could have a slot milled in the edge of the cover in the appropriate place to allow clearance for dipstick to bolt in original position - or you could use a spacer with longer bolt...

-Jay-
Old 02-17-2009, 05:12 AM
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I think the problem is hooking it to the spark plaug after the cover is on. There is little room there with no cover on.
Old 02-17-2009, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Looks good so far!

Question: why the problem with #8, #6 spark plugs? Wouldn't they be connected before you put the coil covers on?

Which brings me to the question: how do the spark plug wires from the coil packs route? Do they just come out from under the coil cover edge and go to the plugs as usual? Stock length wires fit OK?

As far as the dipstick goes - you could have a slot milled in the edge of the cover in the appropriate place to allow clearance for dipstick to bolt in original position - or you could use a spacer with longer bolt...

-Jay-
This pic shows how they mount on the underside of the coil pack cover...


So the coils get mounted to the underside, then you bolt that whole assembly onto the valve cover. So you have a choice, either put the plug wire onto the plug first, then attach it to the coil, or vice versa. Either way is going to be a tough task for #6 & #8 since the heater box/hvac is right there. I'll figure it out though once I get to that point.

As for the dipstick, yeah, you could cut a groove, but I wanted to try and avoid hacking up the covers.
Old 02-17-2009, 06:18 AM
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An idea would be to make two custom length plug wires that maybe a few inches longer than stock allowing you to plug them into the spark plug as you lay the cover loose on top of the valve cover. Just an idea
Old 02-17-2009, 07:01 AM
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looks good Brien. aniticipating the finished product
Old 02-17-2009, 10:30 AM
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so the number 8 and 6 plug wire needs to be a little longer?
Old 02-17-2009, 11:09 AM
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Could you plug in #6 & #8 from the bottom? I don't remember if you can...
Old 02-17-2009, 12:50 PM
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The coils are essentially in the same location, it's just they are now attatched to the coil pack covers vs the valve cover. So there is no need to change plug wires. Just think about how tough it is to plug in the #8 plug wire currently and you'll see how covering up the coils will make it more difficult.

I should be able to reach up from the underside and connect the wires to the plugs.
Old 02-17-2009, 03:00 PM
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^ ^ ^ and for us guys that dont own a lift? lol ***. lol
alchemist where you get your lift and what you spend?

and you happy you got a 4 post. i know you park a car underit. but if you dint park a car under it would you have done a 2 post?
Old 02-17-2009, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
^ ^ ^ and for us guys that dont own a lift? lol ***. lol
alchemist where you get your lift and what you spend?

and you happy you got a 4 post. i know you park a car underit. but if you dint park a car under it would you have done a 2 post?
it doesnt go up high enough to be able to put a car under it cause of his low ceiling. he's planning on raising his ceiling though so maybe after he does that it might work out.
Old 02-17-2009, 04:37 PM
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Default I've got to have a spring lift bbq.

Originally Posted by TNTramair
it doesnt go up high enough to be able to put a car under it cause of his low ceiling. he's planning on raising his ceiling though so maybe after he does that it might work out.
Actually Rick, that was the Fall project. I got the ceiling and door raised and now the lift goes to full height with the t/a on it and the door is able to open and close with everything in that position.


As you can see, the garage is far from done, but it's functional. The bottom of the runners are roughly 5'11" as I just duck a little to walk under it and I'm 5'11". The bottom of the car is a good 6.5' from the floor.
Old 02-17-2009, 05:27 PM
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nice!! no more sitting on the roller seat to work on the car...lol
Old 02-17-2009, 05:59 PM
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so you like the 4 post? and if you didnt have to put a car under it, would you have done a 2 post?
Old 02-17-2009, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
so you like the 4 post? and if you didnt have to put a car under it, would you have done a 2 post?

To have a 2 post, you need a lot of space as they are at least 12' wide. I've got a 20x20 garage with 2 8' doors, so a 2 post was never an option as it would have made it a one car and it would have been a nightmare getting the car on / off the lift due to the doors.

About the only isse with having the four post is being able to drop the motor out the bottom is more difficult than with a 2 post. Can it be done, sure, it just takes a little more thought and prep. There's a jack ramp in between so if I wanted to, I can raise either end and put it on jackstands pretty quickly. But for doing exhaust work, suspension work, and even swapping out a trans, it has made my life so much easier.

I paid just under $2000 for it, picked it up in Delaware and Andy (White.Lightning) along with a neighbor helped me install it in an afternoon.
It came in handy when I was doing the ceiling work in my garage as it's a 16 x 7 peice of scafolding that can raise and lower easily and is movable.
Old 02-17-2009, 06:42 PM
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Oh, and once the weather breaks, and I can get caught up on some crap around the house, I'll have a bbq for some of the local guys to come on over and play around on the lift. It is so handy in finding exhaust leaks and mystery rattles in the suspension and drivetrain.
Old 02-17-2009, 07:18 PM
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How high is your garage now from floor to ceiling? Did you have to remove the power door opener from that side? The one shown in the pic looks like its for the other door.
Old 02-17-2009, 09:07 PM
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Here's a good link showing what's needed to be done to convert from the typical opener with the rail in the center of the door to the side mounted opener with a high lift conversion.

Floor to ceiling on that side of the garage is now ~12 feet depeding on where you measure because of the pitch of the floor.

http://www.diygaragerepair.com/High-...oors-s/364.htm
Old 02-21-2009, 03:03 PM
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Well, here's an update on the passenger side.
As I thought, I plugged in the wires to the plugs first, then angled the cover in towards the back first and plugged in #8, then began to angle the front in and plugged in #6, then #4 then finally #2 when I slipped the cover over the oil fill tube. I definitely think the way to go is to install the coil pack cover with the intake off.

That's about as far as I got before the kids woke up from their naps, so more updates will be the next time I can get them both asleep. I'm going to try and keep the evap line where it's at and just route the line under the cover, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to relocate the evap line.
Old 02-22-2009, 12:05 AM
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Looking forward to the next update and more pics . I may be placing a order for mine some time this week if yours look as good on the car as they do sitting there.
Old 02-22-2009, 09:17 AM
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Any chance you could have left the coil packs attached to the rails and the valve covers as normal and made a slight modification to allow the coil covers to attach seperately?

I realize the covers were made to have the coils attached underneath - but it looks as if the coil covers attach to the valve covers using existing bosses on the valve covers that are unused when the coils are attached underneath the coil covers instead of on the rails as stock. It may be that a slight mod will allow the coil covers to attach to the valve covers with the coils attached in the stock manner - hence, no problem connecting spark plug wires...


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